osterac

I guess it's not... but maybe you could put a little fry oil in your filament dryer? Or essential oils? do they have oil of nuggies? Bacon grease? Coffee grounds?

on the plus side, your filament won't smell like chicken nuggies

I use the dehydrate setting on my air fryer I imagine the cover would be to keep the heat in and uniform, but it would also keep moisture in.

This is wonderful! It should be built into cura. great work.

The default fan speed for my printer is 100%, yes, but that's with stock cooling. My printer, as stock, doesn't have a layer cooling fan, just a heatsink fan. I have installed a MASSIVE layer cooling fan/duct. Dual fans actually. I could try setting it higher, but I think in the past that has led to poor layer adhesion. Because of the bridging settings the fan speed will, of course, be at 100% during bridging. If I set it to 100% all the time, and tune my printing around that, there will be less advantage to using bridging settings. My max fan speed is 50% also. Of course I'm not an expert, this is just what I've found by experimenting on my own. There may be other reasons for poor layer adhesion in my prints. I'll try some higher fan speeds. Also, I appreciate all your help! Thanks for taking the time.

with a print this thin, it can remain soft all the way through until the build plate cools. It's happened to me before with this model.

Yeah, it didn't look like that when I sliced it. As for the bowing, I must have removed it before the build plate was cool.

I fooled around with it some more and was able to get some good results. I thing there was a partial clog in my nozzle and changing that seemed to help. It now looks like this: 0.4 mm top/bottom layers on the left (stock flow and density) and 0.6 top/bottom layers on the right (with adjusted flow and density). I'll attach a project file. I still think it would be nice to have a bridge layer width setting that modified all these values for you, as it took quite a while to get these results. Settings: Bridge Test Simple stairs .6 line.3mf

I may be doing it wrong, but I tried doing the math again with volume and got the same result. Edit Sorry about the double post, I meant for that to all be in one

Thank you, this post is very helpful. One problem I've had trouble with is getting the bridge wall to adhere. This is the absolute best I've been able to do: Even if that's the best I can expect to do with silk PLA, what settings would make the bridge wall adhere better (in general)? I didn't realize silk PLA performed so much worse. I suppose it depends on the brand, because I have had much better luck with other silk PLAs. This one (Amolen dichromatic) has been a real pain.

Hi, I was going to post this on github but I can't figure out how to create a new discussion there. I like to print silk PLA at .6mm line width with my .4mm nozzle. If I print at .4mm, the layer/wall adhesion is terrible. However, at .6mm line width, the bridging is quite bad. I can change the top/bottom line width back to .4mm in order to get .4mm bridges, but then I would compromise layer adhesion. I'd like to have, in the bridging settings, an option for line width. I know this can effectively be done with bridge wall/skin flow, but it might be a bit more convenient and less confusing to have a setting for bridge line width. Also I believe that doing it this way just spaces the bridge lines out rather than printing more of them. What do you think? EDIT Adjusting bridge wall/skin flow does not seem to help, although I might be doing it wrong. I changed bridge wall flow from 50% to 33.33% and skin flow from 100% to 66.66% in order to try to reduce line width from .6 mm to .4mm. I'll attach a project file. Bridge Test Simple stairs.3mf

Sorry for posting again, but I wonder why no one is answering? Did I post in the wrong section? Even if you don't have an answer, maybe just to say it can't be done, I would appreciate a response. Thanks

Maybe I didn't do the best job of explaining. All the settings I'm talking about are in the cooling section. When min layer time is set to 10 seconds and min layer speed is set to 10mm/s, if the layer time drops below 10 seconds the print speed will be reduced in order to raise the layer time to at least 10 seconds (but not below a speed of 10mm/s). Say you are printing at 30mm/s and the min layer time is 10 seconds and the min layer speed is 10mm/s. if the layer time is 3 seconds, the printer would have to slow down to 9mm/s in order to do a 10 second layer. However, it can't because the min layer speed is 10mm/s. If lift head is on, at the end of the layer, the printer will lift the print head 3mm and pause for 1 second to meet the min layer time requirement. The drawback to this is oozing filament that sticks to the print. If lift head is off, the printer will ignore the min layer time and print the layer in 9 seconds (as slow as it is allowed). However, the fan speed won't be increased to compensate. I don't know if a setting for this is already there, but if not, it would be great to have. Thanks

Hi So I brought a simple cone shape into cura to test how cura increases fan speed for shorter layer times. I had my min layer time set (MLT) to 10, my fan speed threshold (FST) set to 18, and my min speed set to 10. The cone was sliced into 200 layers. I looked at the gcode file and the fan reached maximum speed at layer 92, not at the very top layer like I hoped it would (and because lift head is off, the layer times will go below 10 seconds). I figured out that if I set MLT to 0.001 the fan would reach max speed at the very top layer. The problem with this, however, is that the printer will never slow down for short layer times. Cura doesn't seem to consider the fact that the printer won't actually be obeying the MLT when lift head is off. Is there any way I can get the best of both worlds; the fan speed tapering under MLT and slower print speeds under MLT? Thanks cone.3mf