Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

4 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I had the exact same thing happen for the first time the other day, same setup as well. Hopefully this will get resolved soon.
  2. I use generic ABS and ultimaker TPU and it works like a charm, It has probably done a switchover at least a dozen or more times. The ends have had bends and there was no Ill effect.
  3. You can always print the adapter and vent it outside the building.
  4. I've printed Tough PLA with the air manager and it's not a problem. If it does somehow become an issue you can just open the top. The fan will run at high, it's not that terribly loud. This machine seems like a bit of overkill to be printing with just PLA.
  5. I have the air manager and material station. I think it's nice. I do large flat ABS prints and they stay really flat. You can adjust the build chamber temp in cura, but I don't think it actually reads build chamber temp, just ambient and then calculates volume, and adjust fan speed from there (someone correct me if I'm wrong). I print end use parts, and the machine runs nonstop, for me the combo is definitely worth it. I will say with the combo I have a machine with much cleaner internals, which will definitely prolong its life, less dust, more better. Haven't had a nozzle plug yet either, which I believe was always dust related before I got this. Before my prints were limited to PETG because of the warping, I tried ABS just too much warping, didn't matter the brand. ABS IMO is just plane old great stuff, I don't care what anyone says. It prints nice, easy to post process, and is tough.
  6. Something i found out recently is that you can change the build chamber temp in cura (max 50°C). Which helps with ABS alot.
  7. Well here it is with build chamber temp set to 50° C, Turned out awesome! I'm not going to print a bad one for the sake of showing what warping I had seeing that these take 20 Hrs. and $7.91. But if you imaging, the flat side is the side that is on the build surface, and that very minor bowing you see was way more pronounced with default build chamber temperatures. There was a dishing effect going on, when there was too much fan running. The air manager works like a champ, couldn't be happier.
  8. Yeah, I let the bed get cool, I usually take the print off in the morning, It gets done 2 hours before I get in to work. Ill have one done with the air manager unplugged tomorrow, and another one with it plugged in soon, so ill try to get a pic. I print one of these panels every day, so I try to keep them pretty dialed in. The warping isn't the corners lifting up at all. It is when it cools and seperates from my bed (I use glass and Aquanet, that's it) the center pops up. The surface finish on the part definitely indicates proper adhesion, and there is not signs any part of the print lifting when printing. It's not a big deal, except we send them out to get circuit boards installed on them so I don't want them too warped. Before the air manager the corners would lift and I had all sorts of problems with ABS, so I printed CPE. I installed the air manager, and it works great for most all purposes, except default setting with a UM ABS spool the fan still spins too fast and I get the center arching up when the print cools.
  9. UM Black ABS, but something that I did not know got brought to my attention, and that is that I can adjust the build volume temperature, something I was unaware of. Right now it looks like default is 35°, so ill bump that up. What I am printing is large and flat, roughly 10 inches by 6 inches, and adhesion is the easy part. It is when I take the part off it warps, the higher build temperatures reduce warping in my situation.
  10. As far as I know. It is 5.4.27. I am happy with it, works great, just too much fan with ABS, even ultimaker ABS.
  11. I do the same, I wish I could turn that fan down to the very minimum with ABS
  12. I make end use control panels for our product and have tried MH, both build and Pro, and Esun trying to save a few bucks, but in the end Ultimaker material proved to be the best, but most expensive. It had much better flexibility (before cracking) and print properties. I have switched to ABS as of late, seeing that I enclosed my printer, and don't plan to ever turn back. As far as moisture, i never found PETG to get waterlogged, but I also use it when I get it, generally it never sits around longer then a month for me. I ran my fan speed at %20 and never had a problem with inter-layer adhesion, it was strong and great, I just quit using it because I need a higher glass transition temperature. Hope this helps
  13. If you do a change print core, it will retract the material. I had the same initial reaction to my material station, and got quite a few errors, I did a shut down restart and haven't had a problem since, and it has been in use everyday since when i got it. I did have an issue where mine wasn't bringing filament all the way to the nozzle, ended up just being a bad bowden tube. I replaced that everything is good.
  14. I found alot of cracking and shattering issues were brand dependent, some are just different then others.
  15. I have the s5 with the material station and I keep my feeder tension at half way and print an aray of material. I have had a small chunk of filament break off during material change and lodge in the feeder, I had to pull the cover off and remove it. If your feeder is too tight, which I have done, that will cause problems as well. I also had an issue with the material station where the filament wouldnt reach the nozzle and that turned out to be a bad bowden tube. You may want to clean your nozzle as well, cleaning filament works great for that. The material station is pretty slick I will say.
  • Create New...