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Elfonerio

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Posts posted by Elfonerio

  1. 4 hours ago, rmpel said:

    I see what you mean. But perhaps take a lesson from Slic3r? 

    Material settings: everything material related, to tackle things like over- or under extrusion , as you said.

    Printer settings: every setting that is printer related; resonance would be tackled by setting the infill speed, and, of course, the printer would know its own jerk and acceleration settings.

    And finally; print settings; everything that is not printer or material dependant. Like number of wall lines, infill percentage, things like that.

     

    Again, I get what you are saying, I understand it's not as black and white, but I'm just stating an inconvenience 🙂 and perhaps with this insight, we can make Cura better.

     

    So once again; thank you. I appreciate the time you took to respond.

     

    "Not carrying over ANY settings at least makes that predictable."

    True, it IS very predictable, because there is just "one" settings library. It's all on one pile. If it were split into a few sections, one section carried over, one or more others not, it would still be predictable. I've lost quite some time discovering my second printer was printing in .1 layer height, 70% infill, while I intended to have 2 identical prints running at .2 with 25% infill.

     

    Anyway. I'm going in circles 🙂

    Sorry.

    Can you just save the print profile and use that with the loaded part? 

  2.  

    On 3/17/2020 at 1:52 PM, CarlGregg said:

    Hi,

     

    At the end of a print, our S5 paused for a brief period and then raised the print bed to about 10mm from its maximum and began its material purge (we are connected to a material station). This caused the print head to crash into the print. Fortunately, the geometry of the allowed the head to slide off but this was shear luck. We are using Cura 4.5 and S5 has latest drivers.

     

    Carl

    I had the exact same thing happen for the first time the other day, same setup as well.  Hopefully this will get resolved soon.

  3. I have the air manager and material station.  I think it's nice.  I do large flat ABS prints and they stay really flat.  You can adjust the build chamber temp in cura, but I don't think it actually reads build chamber temp, just ambient and then calculates volume, and adjust fan speed from there (someone correct me if I'm wrong). 

     

    I print end use parts, and the machine runs nonstop, for me the combo is definitely worth it.  I will say with the combo I have a machine with much cleaner internals, which will definitely prolong its life, less dust, more better.  Haven't had a nozzle plug yet either, which I believe was always dust related before I got this. 

     

    Before my prints were limited to PETG because of the warping, I tried ABS just too much warping, didn't matter the brand.  ABS IMO is just plane old great stuff, I don't care what anyone says.  It prints nice, easy to post process, and is tough.

  4. On 1/19/2020 at 8:41 PM, gr5 said:

     

    Wow - that's new to me.  Do you let the glass bed cool to at least 80C before removing the part from the glass?  You got me quite curious.

     

    injection molding has similar issues - when the part comes out of the mold it warps - they have to do weird things like make 90 corners 95 degrees (or 85 - I forget).

     

    I think I need to see photographs of this warping.

    Well here it is with build chamber temp set to 50° C, Turned out awesome!  I'm not going to print a bad one for the sake of showing what warping I had seeing that these take 20 Hrs. and $7.91.  But if you imaging, the flat side is the side that is on the build surface, and that very minor bowing you see was way more pronounced with default build chamber temperatures.  There was a dishing effect going on, when there was too much fan running.

     

    The air manager works like a champ, couldn't be happier.

    IMG_20200121_092014.jpg

    • Like 1
  5. 30 minutes ago, gr5 said:

     

    Wow - that's new to me.  Do you let the glass bed cool to at least 80C before removing the part from the glass?  You got me quite curious.

     

    injection molding has similar issues - when the part comes out of the mold it warps - they have to do weird things like make 90 corners 95 degrees (or 85 - I forget).

     

    I think I need to see photographs of this warping.

    Yeah, I let the bed get cool, I usually take the print off in the morning, It gets done 2 hours before I get in to work.  Ill have one done with the air manager unplugged tomorrow, and another one with it plugged in soon, so ill try to get a pic.  I print one of these panels every day, so I try to keep them pretty dialed in. 

    The warping isn't the corners lifting up at all.  It is when it cools and seperates from my bed (I use glass and Aquanet, that's it) the center pops up.  The surface finish on the part definitely indicates proper adhesion, and there is not signs any part of the print lifting when printing. 

    It's not a big deal, except we send them out to get circuit boards installed on them so I don't want them too warped. 

    Before the air manager the corners would lift and I had all sorts of problems with ABS, so I printed CPE.  I installed the air manager, and it works great for most all purposes, except default setting with a UM ABS spool the fan still spins too fast and I get the center arching up when the print cools. 

     

  6. 10 minutes ago, lrodriguez said:

     

    What brand of filament are you working with, by the way?

    UM Black ABS, but something that I did not know got brought to my attention, and that is that I can adjust the build volume temperature, something I was unaware of.  Right now it looks like default is 35°, so ill bump that up.  What I am printing is large and flat, roughly 10 inches by 6 inches, and adhesion is the easy part.  It is when I take the part off it warps, the higher build temperatures reduce warping in my situation.

     

  7. 27 minutes ago, Gabriele said:

    Today I tried to print a medium sized object in ABS, build volume temperature set at 50° from cura 4.4. 

    The internal build volume temperature measured was around 30 deg (build plate at 100°).

    The object warped and delaminated.

    With the air manager turned off the internal build volume temperature was higher, around 45°/50° and the print was perfect. 

     

     

     

    I do the same, I wish I could turn that fan down to the very minimum with ABS

  8. 2 hours ago, P3D said:

     

    Sounds like you did some experimentation already - is there a brand you could recommend?

    I make end use control panels for our product and have tried MH, both build and Pro, and Esun trying to save a few bucks, but in the end Ultimaker material proved to be the best, but most expensive.  It had much better flexibility (before cracking) and print properties.  I have switched to ABS as of late, seeing that I enclosed my printer, and don't plan to ever turn back.

     

    As far as moisture, i never found PETG to get waterlogged, but I also use it when I get it, generally it never sits around longer then a month for me.  I ran my fan speed at %20 and never had a problem with inter-layer adhesion, it was strong and great, I just quit using it because I need a higher glass transition temperature.

     

    Hope this helps

  9. On 1/13/2020 at 3:20 PM, D95 said:

    I just received and installed the Material station for my S5 bundle. No air manager has arrived yet. After install, upgraded firmware to latest offered on the machine 5.4.27-20191212.  Now what was a great printer has lost its mind and is useless.  First print I ran, it loaded from bay "A" to extruder 1, but it dumped a bunch of filament off the left side of the build plate, and threw an error that the nozzle did not heat fast enough.  Now there is no way I can find to eject that material. It is loaded all the way into the head, but the material menu has all options greyed out for that bay.

    Is there some trick to force an unload? I do not want to break material station dragging the filament backwards through it.

    Even an attempt to remove the core, goes crazy spewing material on the left of the build plate.

    Thank you

    If you do a change print core, it will retract the material.  I had the same initial reaction to my material station, and got quite a few errors, I did a shut down restart and haven't had a problem since, and it has been in use everyday since when i got it. 

    I did have an issue where mine wasn't bringing filament all the way to the nozzle, ended up just being a bad bowden tube.  I replaced that everything is good.

  10. I have the s5 with the material station and I keep my feeder tension at half way and print an aray of material.  I have had a small chunk of filament break off during material change and lodge in the feeder, I had to pull the cover off and remove it.  If your feeder is too tight, which I have done, that will cause problems as well.  I also had an issue with the material station where the filament wouldnt reach the nozzle and that turned out to be a bad bowden tube.  You may want to clean your nozzle as well, cleaning filament works great for that.

    The material station is pretty slick I will say.

  11. I have one, it's nice.  I cant comment on the benefits of using it with PLAs, but I can say that it does help with ABS and PETG quite a bit, I have better layer adhesion and much less warping.  I have no way to measure UPF's myself, but there isn't any stink coming out of it when printing if that tells you anything. 

     

    The fan does seem to run on high when using a generic material, so if it's right next to your desk it may be a bit annoying.  I have mine next to my desk and it doesn't really bother me though. 

     

    One thing that I really like about it is the ability to keep dust out of the machine, it's amazing how dirty my printer was getting.  I was also getting nozzle clogs every once and a while, and so far that seems to be gone (I do have the material station too, that surely helps too).

     

    All in all I think my purchase was a good one, I don't regret it one bit.  The firmware itself is surely in it's early stages, although not bad, I can see it improving in the future.  Just like how all the other firmware updates have increased the S5's print quality.

    • Like 1
  12. 5 hours ago, PaulK said:

     

    Well, if it assumes initial conditions (ambient temperature) will stay the same for the entire print (possibly days), i'd call that guessing 🙂 Seriously though, there is no way to even remotely nail the fan speed perfectly to hit the right temp over a very long print, how can this possibly get a remotely accurate chamber temperature over a long period without feedback?

     

    The prioritizing air movement thing was going by statements regarding about ensuring particles are removed. For example, from the description of intended operation, I doubt the algorithm would leave the fan entirely off until a warm chamber temperature happened. In some sense, you can afford to start a little cool, because the bed is close to the print at the beginning, but I don't have confidence that the air manager will hit even the stated air temperatures over long periods, i.e. large prints, where warmer chambers have the most benefit (if you aren't printing PLA). I suspect I'll be canceling my order 😞 and have to spin something else (or keep the air manager, but don't plug it in instead plug it into my own controller...)

    What exactly are you printing?  I have the same concerns and I have the pro bundle on order.  For me my concern is ABS, I would like to print that with a little better temp control.  I have what I like to call "Reverse Warping" where the center of a large flat print bows up AFTER I remove the part.  So I figure more stable temps would solve that issue.  My next option is to got with an actively heated chamber machine, but those aren't cheap and the flexibility that the S5 has isn't there.

    I think if done correctly the air manager would work fine, having the 2 datum points of the ambient and the build plate temp, you could estimate the build chamber temp/fan speed pretty accurately.  Unless this thing is in a garage or something and there is wide temp swings.

    I figure there isn't an internal temp probe, because of patent infringements, but that's just me guessing.  But for the price the air manager doesn't seem like a bad investment.

  13. 5 hours ago, TheRealJoost said:

     However, do you have experience with the S5 maintainability and reliability?

    My S5 has been running everyday since March of 2019, I'm gonna guess and say roughly 16 hrs. a day, and no real problems to speak of (I tightened the motor belts).  Every once and a while the nozzle will plug up, and I'm guessing that's from dust.  What I don't like about the F123 is that the second extruder can only run their support material (according to our local strat dealer), so a dual color print is out of the picture. 

     

    I have the pro bundle on order, which should solve most dust, temp, and humidity issues. 

     

    The cost of print for the ultimaker will be cheaper, considering you don't have to stick to strat's filament.

     

    BTW, I print a control panel for an end use product, and a few other items.  Cost of injection molding is cost prohibitive for us.

     

    If you need to print ABS regularly, the strat might be better because of the actively heated chamber, but with the Ultimaker's air manager that might solve those problems too.

  14. 4 hours ago, SandervG said:

    Hi @Elfonerio,

     

    We should release a new firmware today for the Ultimaker S5 and the Ultimaker S5 Pro Bundle. This means that if you already own an Ultimaker Pro Bundle, you will be able to start using it. If you ordered one, but haven't received it yet, it means it is going to be shipped to you.

     

    Practical information that might concern you; If you own or receive an Ultimaker S5 (Pro Bundle) it's good to check what firmware it is running on. If it is 'old' firmware, such as 5.0.X or 5.1.X, it must be updated via the stepping stone version. This is not new information per se, but I figured it's worth stressing again. Specific instructions on how to update your machine, and the files you need, can be found on this page: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52601-update-the-ultimaker-s5-firmware 

    Note: It will be updated accordingly when the firmware has been released. 

     

    Thank you for your time and patience, have a good day.

    Great news, thanks for the update!  Looking forward to receiving the bundle and putting it to use.

     

    Thanks,

     

    -Jared

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