Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

njic

Member
  • Posts

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

njic's Achievements

0

Reputation

  1. Yes i would cut the red wire just like on the picture above. In that case only data and gnd would be connected to usb on UM. I would start the project without charger first anyway to see if it works.
  2. I don't think it is worth destroying MBO, but it is worth my time since I enjoy recycling 😄 Pi 3 with PSU, SD card and camera is 100$ and my phone is laying around collecting dust...
  3. Did anyone try running octoprint on old android phone? I was thinking about using my xiaomi mi a2 or huawei p20 lite to controll my UM2+. As i need to use same usb port for data and chargingn I have to make custom OTG cable. Before I start that project I want to make sure is this diagram safe for UM2+: Left side would be type C or micro USB, right side type B for 3D printer and bottom type A for charging. Is there anything I should worry about? I don't want to risk my printer, so any tips are welcome 🙂
  4. I was trying to print Mac OSX Recycle Bin with no success. I am using default UM2+ retraction settings (6,5 mm @ 25 mm/s) with ColorFab PLA/PHA at 208 C and 30 - 40 mm/s print speed (0,16 mm layer height). Feeder tension is set as default (in the middle). After 10% of progress extruder stopped feeding filament because of grinding. I know this model requires a lot of retractions, but I found interesting how filament got grinded. The feeder teeth was getting deeper and deeper in filament across the length of 50 cm. Filament flattened from 2,85 to 1,9 mm and than grinding occurred. Is this usual behavior before grinding?
  5. I have rtitan which should be similar to your filament. They also advice 240-260 C. I found that 232 is best temperature and 98-99% flow, fan 30-60%. 240 is also to high in my case. At 250-260 C i hear popping... This material can also be printed at 205 C (almost the same as 232 C). It is weard because datasheet says it is way below melting temp (235 +-10 C). Anyway, I think it is great material for mechanical parts, but not so good for overhangs and complex models Also, I use heated bed at 85 C and I print on clean glass without warping at all. Parts come out easely when bed cools down.
  6. I found Ultimaker tutorial for that. I'm curious how did I get perfect prints in first 30 h of printing... Conclusion: 1. cable was out of it's place (there is slot in side panel behind cable) 2. Pulleys were not tightened in right place (almost all of them) 3. G code was bad I solved everything and I'm happy to continue printing 😄 stu_le_brew thx for everything. good luck
  7. There is g-code in attachment if someone need. Sorry for long post UM2_Luca_postolje.gcode
  8. Thank you for answer. I think that Y endstop wires are in right place. As you can see on image from the first post; lower wire heat shrink was rubbing against left panel. I guess that there should be more space between left panel and belt. I know how to remove endstop and probably I could make more space by untwisting the wires. The machine was running for 34 h only and I wanted to check here before I touch anything. I don't understand why would this rubbing cause triggering, but this topic got me thinking: I think the rods are clean and well lubricated. I can see some oil on hot end bearing seals. There is almost same resistance when moving hot end in X or Y direction by hand. BUT all rods can move left to right / back to front (axial direction only)! All of them can move around 1 mm, but this one (Back X linear shaft, the one with Y motor attached on it) can move more than 2 mm Is this normal? Do I need longer spacers behind pulleys? Moving pulleys towards side panels doesn't feel right. If i move this shaft to the far right the belt is not touching wires anymore, but there is only 1-2 mm clearance. I took closer look on failed print, and I can see that issues started to happen before layer shifting. I guess it's more likely that warping happened and nozzle hit the part and printer skipped steps every few layers. Not sure about this, but I don't like idea of starting machine right now to do more testing. What to do now? Should I investigate by myself or take machine to seller? I was hoping someone from Ultimaker team will suggest me 😄
  9. Hi everyone. 2 weeks ago I bought UM2+ and love it. All prints came out perfectly with no issues untill last night. I was trying to print 8 h long run and layers were shifted after 1/2 print time. After reading this forum I found that someone was asking is motor belt rubbing on endstop cables. I think I have this is a problem on my machine. I can see that one of the small belts is rubbing on endstop. Not sure this coused skipping steps, but it doesn't look healthy. After 1/2 of print time the skipps started to happen and it continue almost untill the end of the print. The skips are all in the same direction. What should I do? I also attached the picture of last print which came outh perfectly. This one is made with almost the same cura settings.
×
×
  • Create New...