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Everything posted by Gero

  1. What kind of material you are using is the big question of course. PLA for example got proven by multiple people to be more prone to warping in warm build-chambers. For this material a more decent room temperature like 21°C with 100% cooling fan is better.
  2. That's why Ultimaker only recommends adding glue to the glass in order to get good adhesion. I tested quite some decent amount of different adhesion glues. So far the best one for almost every filament that worked for me is the Dimafix glue stick. So far my best weapon for ABS and ASA on the S5. Besides that, I upgraded my glass bed for a flexible spring sheet which I can bend to release prints. I also use Dimafix on this one, but it makes bigger parts easy to release without damaging them from any tool. This way I get smooth under sites. Just a drop of IPA to clean the bottom part of the glue. That's it.
  3. There is only one option that seems to be possible and that would be having the door of the material station completely open in order to feed the filament from a 3kg spool in the guide holes. But then the station would give you a warning after a couple of hours because the humidity isn't decreasing, letting the station think that there is an error with the unit. Disconnecting one of the guide tubes at the back won't work because there are sensors in the buffer unit so the station will think that the material in the station is empty. Only really working option is to disconnect the S5 from the station and to reboot the printer. This way it becomes a standalone printer again and you can place the spool on the back. After you finished using this spool reconnect the station with the printer and reboot again in order to enable it. The material station can simply handle spools up to 1kg max. Having an S3 or 2+Connect enables me to also print from bigger spools although I almost never have bigger spools... Respooling might be better with the right tools? Like a power drill adapter?
  4. Thanks for the notification. Just noticed most of my printers are offline. At least my Pro Bundle is still fully online for some reason 🙂
  5. As of right now, I have 3 Ultimaker printers. Maybe even more in the future. The only things I would like to have from a Ultimaker Professional subscription is the CAD plugin for cura and more space in the digital library as I would like to use it more. Since I am in a small startup I am the only one working with the printers. Therefore, all the team- and user-sharing functions are not needed for me. If I buy the subscription for only one of my printer I would be at 500€ a year. If I wanted it for all 3 of my printers I would be at 1500€ a year. But the given costs don't justify these features currently as I can totally work without them. The CAD plugin would be handy as I would have to export all my design files only once in a .step file rather than in .stl and .step. Makes life a bit easier, but is not mandatory for work. The Library is actually really great. I like how I can have a bigger project with all my prints in it prepared so I can hit "go" as soon as I need them. Works great with our current business model of selling those 3d prints. Right now I am using Onedrive to store all my work files. I have to open cura to load projects and send them to the printer which requires a bit more time, but costs me currently around 200€ a year. Besides that I can save all kinds of files in there. The print-history every printer has also allowed me to start prints I need without even opening cura. Again, the library is great and I would like to use it more, but it is not mandatory for work. And because I have been using ultimaker printers since 2016 the ultimaker academy also isn't offering much to me which reflects in the "effectiveness" of the subscription price. Although I have left the state of a "hobbyist" and use my ultimaker printers more for work the current subscription options don't match our needs and offer additional features we don't need which puts the price too high for us. Now to answer the price question: from my standpoint, I would choose a one time fee of course, but given ultimakers standpoint and the whole idea to get users into a subscription is understandable. So I wouldn't mind a subscription here as well, assuming it would offer the things I need/want and the price is matching. Therefore, I would like to suggest a subscription option at maybe 200€ a year with features like the CAD plugin and more space in the digital library and another option with the CAD plugin only (because I cura seems to be used with all kinds of printers therefore the library is not needed in that case). It would give every user more flexibility to choose the best subscription for him and I believe more users would be interested in starting a subscription in the first place.
  6. This might sound strange but try a print with the bed set to 40°C. I am printing nylon almost 24/7 with no extra bed adhesion for 99% of the time. (To be fair, I have a different build plate that's not glass anymore, but for a while I did this on glass as well) If it isn't working get the Magigoo PA glue. That and the bed at 40°C works for sure.
  7. That would be the right extruder. You have to disable this option for both extruders individual.
  8. Hello there. I believe I have found a bug in the procedure that the pro bundle starts when the material station can't retract the filament out of the printcore. I tried printing with BASF PET CF. Sadly the material profile for the material station ALWAYS fails at retract the filament out of the printcore after a finished print. First, I tried to edit the material profile to increase the Break temperature of the filament from 90°C to even 250°C with no change. Maybe I have to set a different Break retraction distance...? Anyway, while I did all these tests I noticed that the procedure to recover stuck filament from the printcore seems to have a bug: at the end of the procedure the build plate almost "falls" to the ground (with a very unpleasant noise). I recorded the end of the procedure. (Around the 0:28 mark) https://www.dropbox.com/s/6r03rbn0dtqdni3/IMG_1896.MOV?dl=0
  9. I can see my monitor screen working again like it used to be. Great! Its an old iPad which runs the DF 24/7 in my office. It's just great to have this open all the time so a quick look is enough to see if anything went wrong. Thanks for the quick fix.
  10. I noticed that the DF does not refresh anymore after around 2 minutes. I have a screen with the DF open 24/7 to monitor my printers. But since yesterday it seems, I manually have to refresh the website to show the latest status on my printers. Before that it used to refresh every minute or so.
  11. Hello there. So the Native CAD import plugin sounds really great and useful. I believe I am not the only one who would like to use it, but is held off by the high subscription price. May I suggest to offer another option for users to get access to this plugin? Maybe the possibility to subscribe to this plugin alone?
  12. This looks quite nice. I was already thinking about something similar. My thought was about a nozzle wipe with every extruder switch rather than at the beginning because I have some oozing problems with 2 material prints... Would you share this design of yours? I would like to make one with some sort of brass brush to clean the nozzles. This part would be great to start with since it seems to fit nicely next to the build platform.
  13. This is not a model error. This is the setting "Enable coasting". You can find this setting way down in the Experimental tab in cura. It is probably enabled in your given printer profile. This is just disabled in a generic new one. You can use your given profile and just disable this setting. What this does is it stops extruding material just a bit before it reaches the end of the line. This last bit is displayed as a travel move in the layer preview. The purpose is to use the molten filament in the nozzle for the last bit of a line instead of extruding until the end. The idea is to reduce the pressure in the nozzle before the printhead is going to do a travel move. This can reduce stringing and blobs and hide the Z seam better when dialed in correctly.
  14. Interessant mal Einblicke bei anderen zu bekommen. Ich drucke zu 90% das Ultimaker Nylon. Ist einfach super einsatzbar. Ich habe dabei Objekte die Flächen im 35°, 40° und 50° Winkel haben. Als ich mit Ultimaker 2016 angefangen habe, bin ich auch direkt mit PVA eingestiegen. Daher habe ich das so einfach fortgeführt. Lasse die Nylonteile ca. 24 Stunden im Wasser, danach kurz abspülen und in einem trockner für 10 Minuten trocknen lassen. Meine ersten Versuche mit Breakaway waren tatsächlich eher mittelmäßig. Zum einen klebt das ganze zu sehr am Glas oder an der Flexplattform welche ich benutze. Zum anderen hatte ich bei eben solchen schrägen Flächen nie gute Ergebnisse. Habe hierbei immer die Cura Standard Einstellungen benutzt. Ich glaube die haben immer einen Z Abstand beim Support. Vielleicht sollte ich das mal mit 0 Z Abstand probieren. Da ich aber schon bei den Standard Einstellungen Probleme hatte das von schrägen Nylonwänden zu lösen, bin ich da nicht so optimistisch. Breakaway ohne Turm zu drucken wollte ich auch mal versuchen, aber beim Düsenwechsel kommt da einfach zu viel Material nachträglich raus... Würde mir da gerne mal eure Einstellungen angucken wenn ihr das so besser hinbekommt...
  15. Interessant hier durchzulesen. Ich drucke so gut wie nur mit PVA. Meine bisherigen Ergebnisse mit Breakaway waren derweil nicht wirklich zufriedenstellend. Allerdings habe ich bei den meisten Teilen auch Überhänge, die gerade so über den sonst möglichen Winkel liegen. Bedeutet ich brauche Stützen, welche direkt unter den Schichten des Objektes liegen. Ist der Z Abstand beim Support größer als 0 werden die Überhänge recht schlecht gedruckt. Daher kam bei mir immer PVA zum Einsatz.
  16. The CAD integration sounds really great! The first Slicer with this feature. But here is the thing: I will probably never use it. At least as long as this feature is in a subscription with that price tag. From a business standpoint, I can totally understand why Ultimaker wants people in a subscription plan. Most of the benefits in that Professional plan sound great... if you start with 3D printing. All those courses and guides are great, but what is really useful for somebody who works since a couple of years with 3D printers and knows how to design, how to choose the right material, how to optimize settings for individual parts? The library is great to work with, but when I just want to start a print from Cura, printing over network or even the cloud is faster than sending it to the library first just to start it from there. I save the project to a hard drive afterwards and have everything together. The CAD integration sounds great. I only need to export my designs as .step to save and print them. But I can also export them one time as .stl and work with that. I am speaking as someone who has a small startup with 3D printers. All those features in that subscription are nice to have, but just not worth the 1500€ I had to pay with the current number of printers...
  17. Just found this thread while searching the forum for ASA threads because I too face some problems currently. I use the BASF ASA black. The first tests (Benchy ofc) had some huge warping issues. After reading this thread I checked the cooling settings in the profile which I got from the marketplace. For some reason its telling me to print with the fan on 100%. For any ABS/ASA filament that kinda seems not right to me. I set it to 1% and started a new print. The warping issue now wasn't as near as bad as the first attempt. But the overhangs on the Benchy were looking really bad. So I went up to 15% fan speed. The quality now is way better as with the fan speed on 1%... However, I am now facing the problem of really weak layer adhesion. The print quality looks great while printing with 260°C on the nozzle, 15% cooling fan and the preset 0,1mm layer height, but a weak print where I can take the Benchy with my bare hands apart isn't really useful... I will try some slower speeds and some different cooling settings in the profile to make sure that no cooling thresholds are messing up my fan speed settings in the tune tab, but so far I am a bit disappointed in the material profile because I don't see the base settings producing any strong parts for the BASF ASA.
  18. I would say the collet issue is the root of the problem. This is the parts with the metal teeth that holds the tube. Sometimes it can help to shorten the tube a bit because it can remove the deep marks on the outside of the tube if there are any. I had my problem after I changed all tubes and collets on my printer for the "1 year maintenance". This one collet seemed to be a bad one. It didn't happen often or on every print, but from time to time. Changing the collet fixed it for me with no other errors.
  19. I had this error once as well. I can confirm that changing the coupling collet fixed it, although I also tried shortening the tube.
  20. Great presentation. But I have to ask this question: What is the main difference between PETG and CPE from Ultimaker? What are the differences that I should keep in mind to make the decision on what material to choose? From what I can see PETG can handle a slightly higher temperature (70°C for CPE, 76°C for PETG; based on the data sheets), has some more colours to offer and is just a couple of euros cheaper. I often read that CPE is Ultimakers PETG. That's why I have to ask 🙂
  21. There is no feature to turn the skin before the walls. The skin layers are printed best after the walls. I would say that you might have some adhesion issues here. I have to option in mind here: try some settings to make the adhesion for the first layer easier. Try a higher first line height (like 0.25mm) and an increased first layer with (like 120%). Print the first layer slow (20 or even 15mm/s). I kinda guess from experience that your nozzle is carrying the first printed hole line away? Second idea: remove the bottom layers (by setting them to 0) and check infill before the walls. This way you might not have a 100% solid bottom layer, but the infill structures, so you achieve somehow what you want...
  22. Great to hear that! I have multiple Ultimaker printers and was really excited to try out the digital library function when 4.9 was announced. Sadly, with those bugs it was better to switch back to 4.8 which didn't have the "save to library" function. Looking forward for it!
  23. Are you using cura4.9? There seems to be a bug which causes all the Ultimaker S-Line printers not to correctly purge/re-retract at the start of a print with the second nozzle. Switch to cura4.8 and try the same print again. The "Purge blob" function also doesn't work in cura4.9, so for Ultimaker printers cura4.8 seems better for the moment.
  24. I print TPU on one of my Ender 3s all the time. Took me quite some time to get the settings right. I also have a direct drive one which needs some different settings, but is also working great now. I use a retrac distance of 2.5mm with a speed of 50mm/s. I also enabled z hop with a height of 0.4 mm to avoid any "antennas". All printing speeds are set to 20mm/s with a hot end on 225°C.
  25. A little update: A simple "+" is also not working and disrupts the transmission of the file into the cloud. There might be even more signs that don't work.
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