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e23

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  1. I print ABS at 225 C myself and that works really well if not perfect (basically) for me. That might be high for PLA. I'd think 200 C for PLA or something around there, but I'm not sure what type of PLA you are using. I print ABS at 225 C (lowest you can go to me personally) I print PC at around 250 C (lowest you can go to me personally) I'd go around the low point of PLA and give that a try for now. I always get problems when I print at higher temperatures with any filament. Usually on the lower side of the filament is where I get the best resul
  2. It would be nice to make my own polycarbonate filament if not recycle the polycarbonate filament I have left over from failed prints. Some of them are around $2,000 (too expensive). I would have to make my own polycarbonate filament at that point to try to recoup that kind of money ($15-$25 per KG at most probably from recycling alone). It would take me forever to recycle my bad or broken prints to make that money back especially after I learn more and more myself on how to print near perfection every time. Anyone know how to recycle bad or broken 3D prints for cheap? L
  3. I wouldn't want to laser cut it. Just wondered if it could be 3D printed or if anyone had tried. Maybe metal 3D printers can do that one day.
  4. I kind of want to do something like this myself.
  5. I did find the right video (the microwave part wasn't that long though). I can't have flex and PP appears to flex. --- The glass transition was the same for the other filament. I doubled checked the website and that was right.
  6. I didn't get myself anything for Christmas and/or my Birthday (which happened recently). I decided to treat myself finally and finally figured out something I'd really want rather than spending useless money on something. I just picked up 3000 grams (3 Kg) of Polymaker PC-Max - True White for about $150 (roughly with tax included). I would of paid $70x4 (750 grams each - .75 Kg) or about $300 (tax and such) in total for the same amount. I looked through everything to and it was the same 110C rating for heat as well and I think the 112-113 glass transition to as well was
  7. Just wondering if anyone has tried to 3D print an ultimaker. Buy all the parts and such online.
  8. I don't need the impact strength. I need it be able to handle heat. My new test is around 1:10 minutes at 210F (what I need it to handle alone). I create molds and such myself. Thanks, I will check out the polymaker polymax
  9. I have wondered about this kind of stuff myself to as well. Not a fan of PVA and I don't think it's great to print with alone. I have to use breakaway now since PC White (what I use) isn't compatible with PVA.
  10. This is what I did myself. I didn't want to risk anything. https://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-3-spare-parts/products/print-head-assembly-um3x You just replace this part. metal rods and tubes should come out easily enough. You don't have to order from them. Sounds like he left the 3D printer go for the weekend at work. It's apart of the risk with something like that alone. That's if OP can't fix his 3D printer.
  11. I've had this happen to me. I had to replace the head since it was ABS plastic which was too much of a pain to remove. I've never seen it get that bad though mine was like 1/5th that at most if not 1/10th. If you go this route try to salvage anything in case you need it later on. BB - 0.4 nozzle looks like it can be pulled and saved and maybe the AA one to as well.
  12. Polycarbonate to me personally, but you have to use breakaway.
  13. https://ultimaker.com/materials/abs ABS is somewhat dangerous to print with. 85C - max temp it can stand or around 185F Very difficult to figure out how to print with. https://ultimaker.com/materials/pc PC is safer than ABS from what I understand. You only have to watch out for BPA. Plus much of this was around water or liquids in plastic bottles. I don't use PC or Polycarbonate for drinking anything out of it to as well. I figure for the most part I won't have to really worry about much. 110C (112-113C - glass transition)
  14. I print with ABS myself. https://ultimaker.com/materials/abs Withstands temperatures of up to 85 °C I had problems with ABS myself. 85C (185F) means I can't go over 185F. The max I needed was around 190F. I usually go 170-180F (max), but it was definitely close at times due to the 185F max temp range. Switching to PC though (tomorrow I might change out the filament if not the 30th). https://ultimaker.com/materials/pc Polycarbonate - PC has the ability to withstand 110C if not 112C/113C It's not the easiest to p
  15. Ultimaker 3 - ABS (I have to use the plastic cage you get on the side or else the ABS will warp). Printing Temp: 225 C Build Plate Temp: 80 C Print Speed: 75 mm/s Fan Speed: 2% Layer Height: 0.1 mm Infill: 100% Brim and Z Hop when retacted Use the glue stick to as well that came with mine (very thin even layer). --- Maybe this will help. IDK if it will for you, but maybe it will help. I print all the time and this works perfectly (basically perfect) for me. --- ABS is not ea
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