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Anthrix

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  1. Show us your print results and then we'll try to help you just uploading other profile won't fix your issues just can make it worse. It could be not just settings but mechanical issue to.
  2. On my set up i used 8 off them. Results bed is rock solid :)
  3. Hey, sorry for so late replay. I do use inductive sensor same as on Prusa mk3 4s wires. Works really well. I do use AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR this is link to my config files so you can check them out. Config files.
  4. Hi sorry for late replay 🙂 @suspiciouspingpong So for the holes location you'll need to put screw in the end middle hole (that is original hole) and then mark-it rest of the holes. Front holes are very close to the edge so need to be careful with size of the drill. Cables are rooted this way to reduce stress on the cable bends. Bigger bend radius less stress on the cable.
  5. here is link to hotend mount for e3d: Mounting unit Z axis couple is fine no issues at all. if you need more resolution on z axis just fit 0.9 stepper.
  6. Sure i can share my config 🙂. Just as advice use just required parts of my config to create yours. My ultimaker have few extras so if you don't have that will create problem for you. I use mk52 heat bed (Prusa mk3) also inductive sensor with temperature compensation (Pinda v2), SERIAL_PORT 3 is used for communication with raspberry pi over rx, tx, pins from wi-fi port. Also other bits like limit switch config might not match yours. So just double check. I build mine from 0. Configuration.h Configuration_adv.h
  7. Yes to get ulticontroller working in marlin is just one line in marlin to enable it. Also one line to enable led controller and you good to go. But you need to make that custom cable. In few days i'll be adding ups (for recover if power loss happens) to mine so i'll be able to take couple photos.
  8. So as i understand you want to use oled display? an make your Ulticontroller for it. just get all ready unit from like aliexpress less hassle and easy also cheap, make sure your board have i2c to control it.
  9. So i build ultimaker 2 clone with third party board (skr 1.4). I'l like to get replay from peopole who own generic ultimaker 2. How machine operates when you press arrow up or down on z axis. Does build plate moves up when arrow up press or it's inverted. I did set it up. so it home to max limit switch at the bottom. So when i press home it's homing to bottom ( max limit switch) but if i press arrow up my build plate will move down. if my arrows controls build plate correctly then when trying to home plate moves other direction. Trying to find out is this ok o
  10. Just trying to move from simplify3d to cura and have couple issue. So far all good experience, but one of issues is when after infill starting printing walls inside no retracting happens but nozzle starts moving very fast and blobbing instead of nice print until it slowing down to print same line and finishing nice line. that creates small blobs of filament and that filament sticks to nozzle and get dragged around print. Second one is if any circle in the middle of the print no retraction happens then it does move from one to another location leaving lines. not so important inside of prin
  11. So if you use skr 1.4 you'll need to slice cable to extend 3 wires and make connection to different location. that will be 3.3v - power, (SCL, SDA - this is your i2c communication for screen). Ultimaker controller drawing. J2, J3 Connectors if you look at the drawings connectors j2 and j3. J2 - pins 6 and 4 this is where your i2c going. J3 - pin 8 ,3.3v which is missing on skr side is exp 2 pin 8 you need to split and supply 3.3v from any pin on board, i did use from wi-fi interface. (i do use wi-fi connector (rx,tx) for octoprint. so 3.3v is free to use for screen if you
  12. Or after you try to open app go to Apple logo->System Preferences -> Security and privacy in tab General at the bottom of it will be button to allow to start. You need to do this just one time.
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