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DrCeeVee

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DrCeeVee last won the day on February 15

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  1. @Ryan5829 and others experiencing problems: Guys, I really can't think of a reason why my files are not performing as expected. Are you using normal PLA filament? My files are all meant for standard PLA filament, with a standard AA 0.4 mm nozzle and a layer height of 0.2 mm. When you load the files, are you selecting "Open as Project", and do you see the above parameters in Cura? Alternatively, if you want to try the 3D models and their placement as shown in my files, but with your own settings, just load my files and select "Import Models". Important: after loading the models, just uncheck "Adhesion", found on the bottom of the profile settings area (if checked). This will increase the available surface, so that the 12-shield version can fit in the Ultimaker S5 build plate. When you just import the models and not my settings, you are fully responsible for choosing the appropriate material type, layer height, infill, and all other parameters, just as you would when printing any other STL file. Still, I find it difficult to believe that printing using my files as complete projects (including my settings) results in the photos you've posted. Are you sure you haven't messed with the printer settings? Could there be a file incompatibility issue between different S5 printers and Cura versions? If anyone out there has successfully used my Cura Project files (including my settings) to print Prusa face shields, please let us know by posting a message here, thanks.
  2. Update: the test print via USB stick (Wi-Fi disabled in printer settings) came out absolutely perfect, without any blobs or other issues. Based on this, it seems that the Wi-Fi may be causing some random freezes which affect head movement during printing. If any of the Ultimaker mods/staff is reading this, please forward my findings to your engineers, as there may be issues with the S5 Wi-Fi and how it interferes with the printing process (it shouldn't). I will keep using the S5 via USB stick for a while, to have more reliable data on print quality, and will then switch back to Wi-Fi to see if the blobs come back, so as to have a more definite result. Will report here what I find.
  3. Hi guys, Just a quick post to report that I'm experiencing blobs on my prints, using the latest firmware on my Ultimaker S5 (version: 5.5.12-20200226-UltiBot), and the latest Cura (version: 4.6.1). The print head just freezes for a few seconds (maybe around 5 seconds), and then resumes movement, but it leaves a nasty blob behind it, as the nozzle keeps extruding molten PLA while the head is frozen. The print is otherwise perfect. See attached image. The blobs may happen a few times, depending on the size of the print, and this results in a perfect print with a few large "pimples" on its outer surface, which I have to shave off using a razor blade. I'm using non-Ultimaker, but high quality PLA, the same that has given me many prints without blobs or any other issues in the past. With the older f/w and/or Cura (can't remember the exact versions), and after printing hundreds of face shields for COVID-19, I never experienced a single blob. During the course of using the S5, I've promptly updated the f/w and Cura whenever I was notified of updates. I started noticing the blobs about a week ago, but I haven't been using the printer much lately, so it could go a bit further back. I'm not sure if the f/w or Cura or something else causes it, but it's definitely there. I'm on Wi-Fi, if that makes any difference. I had to stop a test print I was doing earlier, due to a blob appearing on the outer surface. The attached image is from that print. I'm now repeating the exact same print with the exact same material and settings, but using a USB stick as the source of the data, and have switched off Wi-Fi from the S5 Network options menu. This is to rule out any network issues. Will report back when the test print completes (14 hours to go). Is anyone else out there experiencing similar behaviour? Any info, comments, advice, are greatly appreciated, thanks.
  4. @dorlik: You still can use my files! Just download my ZIP file, unzip it, open the file you want (x1, x2, x3, x12) as a Project in Cura (not the STL file, but the Cura 3MF Project file), and simply delete the bottom parts before printing. Do a printout without changing any settings, to see if you get the same problems. My files are guaranteed to work on the S5, as I have printed hundreds of face shields using them. They're plug-and-play, you just load filament, load the Cura Project file, prepare your bed plate and press "Print". I've never had a failed print so far... Your photos look horrible! Have you changed any settings in the standard Cura profiles? Because this can dramatically affect how the printer behaves... Make sure you do a test to see if your S5 prints OK using one of the standard profiles (nothing changed by you). Good luck, and keep those printers printing!
  5. Hi @Diego_Medics3D. Saw your Wednesday post, but forgot to reply... Don't worry too much about the stringing between parts in the stacked version. It can happen, because the STL is designed to allow some space between stacked parts, so that they are easily separated after the print completes. This small gap between stacked parts can cause a few layers to stay loose and not get attached to the part they belong to... Just pull them off the part during cleaning/inspection. This issue is one of the reasons why I'm mostly using the 3-shield-per-print, non-stacked version. Production speed is almost the same, but attention is needed every 6.5 hours, while the 12-shield stacked version has the advantage of allowing you to just leave it printing unattended for a full 24+ hours. Great work guys, keep printing those shields!
  6. @gisley: I've never seen anything like this on my Ultimaker S5... This looks horrible! You must be doing something seriously wrong... One thing I can see is that you are NOT using the project files I uploaded above, or you're not using them correctly. If you did, your print would not have "Adhesion" enabled (it is disabled in all my project files posted above, but it is enabled in your print). Load one of my project files (make sure you use "Open as Project" in the dialogue box), and try again. Also, before you start the print, make sure the material you're using (generic/Ultimaker PLA, possibly Tough PLA) is correctly configured in Cura. My project files use generic PLA, which should work OK even with Ultimaker PLA/Tough PLA. If you're using non-PLA-based material, that's a whole new game and you need to experiment. Follow the above advice as closely as you can, and try again.
  7. Hi @geert_2. About your first question, no, there's nothing between the 3D-printed part and skin, so there may be some irritation after prolonged use. The interest here is speed and quantity, not so much comfort and quality. It was impossible to solve this issue in time to have the shields ready for the ICU staff and other health workers in our hospitals. I've tried wearing the shield a couple of times just to test fitness, but not for very long. It felt very nice and smooth on the forehead, but this may not be the case after many hours of wearing it. I guess time will tell how serious this issue is... The inside of the shield (the part that touches the forehead) is inspected, and lightly scrubbed if necessary, in order to remove print imperfections, such as filament strings, small bumps, and loose filament particles. There is no chemical smoothing involved, and the layer lines are present. The lower strap serves two purposes: firstly, to help the visor maintain its curved, symmetrical shape, and secondly, to aid in visually locating the lower edge of the visor. Ideally, everything should be printed in bright orange colour, but this is often sold out and we end up just using what's available to us. Indeed, the shield could also be used for general protection from fluid splashes, as well as from bits and pieces flying around. In my field of work (I'm an electronics engineer) we intend to use this type of shield for protection when testing electronic devices, where components can become projectiles and cause serious injury. I must admit I was very reluctant to the idea of printing face shields. I thought it couldn't be done. But I was proven wrong by my very own Ultimaker S5, with its amazing quality, reliability and speed. Overall, my impression of this project is very positive. The printer has certainly proved its worth, printing non-stop since Wednesday 1 April 2020 -- I can hear it next to me right now, tirelessly printing away...
  8. Hi again @gisley. I apply glue stick over just the area I'll be printing on. In the case of the protective face shields, I'm using the 3-shield arrangement, which pretty much covers the entire build plate. No need to learn Greek! I'm attaching the entire folder of everything related to the project, including the original STL files, as well as my own Cura project files for the face shield part arrangements (x1, x2, x3, x12). Prusa Research Protective Face Shield (RC3).zip Anyone reading this, feel free to download, use and share.
  9. FDM/FFF printing is very cheap. I've calculated that the cost of filament for this project is 0.84 € / shield. The filament I use is the cheapest I could find. It costs us 21 € / kg. You can clearly see the reduced quality when compared to more expensive / Ultimaker filaments, but it's more than enough for the intended use. It would be a total waste of money to use Tough PLA or any other premium Ultimaker filament for this project, where the aim is speed and quantity, not quality. About print bed handling and adhesion, what I do is spread some UHU Stic glue (like the one that came with the printer -- in fact, I still have the original), and then use some almost dripping-wet kitchen towel to spread the glue evenly on the bed surface. This works best when the bed is cold. When done right, this creates a thin and even film of glue over the glass (any excess water from the wet kitchen towel is quickly evaporated when the bed is heated up). The layer of glue ensures that the prints are firmly glued to the surface while printing. After the printing is finished, I wait for the bed to cool down first. I look at the colours of the print head(s) as a virtual timer. When red turns to blue and the cooling fan stops, then it's time to remove the part from the bed. For difficult parts with large surfaces, I leave the bed to completely cool down first, and then the parts just pop off very easily. There is usually no need to reapply glue for subsequent prints. What I do is simply use the almost dripping-wet kitchen towel technique to spread the existing glue. This can last for days of printing, at least for the shields it does. After completing a big printing session and there's nothing else planned for printing in the following days, I take out the glass and wash it completely clean and spotless in the bath/shower. The great thing about the UHU Stic glue is that it's water-soluble, so you just rinse the glass with warm water in the shower and it melts away. It's probably not really necessary to completely clean the bed, I guess it's just me wanting things to be nice and clean... About the shields, don't use a brim or raft. Using a brim (or, even worse, a raft) will make your life difficult, as it can be very time-consuming to separate the brim/raft from the actual part. Just deselect Adhesion in Cura. This will disable brim/raft and will simply generate a small skirt around the print, whose only purpose is to prime the nozzle for starting the print. Let the glue do the work, and you'll end up with a ready-to-use part, with only very minimal, if any, post-processing required. The skirt can be seen in the attached image, showing a print of 3 shields that was completed earlier today. Hope this helps you in your first steps with FDM/FFF and the S5. Once you get the hang of it, it's a guaranteed near-100% success setup.
  10. Hi @gisley, congrats on getting the S5, you'll love it! About what you're asking, the S5 has a large build plate, so you can fit a lot of shields on it. I've made two types of arrangements. The first one has 3 shields on the plate, as shown below: Using generic PLA on the Draft profile (0.2 mm layer thickness), with no Adhesion (i.e., just a skirt), it prints in 6 hours and 26 minutes (for 3 shields). That's 2 hours and 9 minutes per shield. The other option is to use a x4 stacked version of the shield, available at Prusa Research. Using the stacked version, I was able to fit 12 shields on the plate, as shown below: This arrangement, again using generic PLA on the Draft profile (0.2 mm layer thickness), with no Adhesion (i.e., just a skirt), prints in 1 day, 3 hours and 5 minutes (for 12 shields). That's 2 hours and 16 minutes per shield. I'm using the 3-shield option for several reasons, the main one being that there is no need to separate the masks from each other, and also there's no need to print vertical supports for the little hooks that hold the visor, which sometimes detach from the bed and can ruin the print if left unattended. Also, the 12-shield option requires almost exactly 500 g of filament, meaning that, on a 750 g spool, the second print will pause half way, which defies the benefit of 24-hour non-stop printing. Overall, the 3-shield option is a cleaner arrangement in my opinion, and, as you can see, it's even slightly faster than the 12-shield option. The only disadvantage of the 3-shield option is that it requires your attention every 6.5 hours, to remove the print and start another. I've arranged my timing so that I start a print just before going to bed, and wake up when it has just finished printing. Print times can be reduced further, by selecting a layer thickness of 0.25 mm. This will reduce the print times of both arrangements by 15%, at the expense of print quality. I've stayed with 0.2 mm, but you can experiment with 0.25 mm and see if the result is acceptable for you. It very much depends on the quality of the filament too. I'm using the cheapest filament I could find, so I don't want to risk pushing it too much. Experiment, and see what works best for you. I'm using a laser-cut transparent visor, which a local company makes for around 1 € per piece, at the exact specifications as published by Prusa Research. I get the visors and rubber bands from this local company, and manually assemble everything. This is the final product: I hope this information helps you and others out there. Feel free to ask anything about the printing process, etc. I'm happy to help in any way I can.
  11. Hello @SandervG & everyone! Just to let you guys know of what we're doing with our Ultimaker S5 to combat Coronavirus. I've started a thread in the What have you made section. Link below: Using our Ultimaker S5 to print Prusa Face Shields for COVID-19 We are very glad to be able to assist in our hospitals' efforts to fight this threat. We're currently working 24/7 on the production of face shields. It's in times like these that equipment such as 3D printers prove their worth. And our Ultimaker S5 has certainly proved its worth! Stay safe, and happy 3D printing!
  12. Hello to the Ultimaker community! Just to tell you guys that we are making the most out of our brand-new Ultimaker S5, by printing Protective Face Shields designed by Prusa Research, to help our hospitals fight the Coronavirus (COVID-19). Our Ultimaker distributor in Greece, Thes3D, have kindly lent us an Ultimaker 2+ to add to our production capability, and have even given us some spools of filament for our prints. Many thanks to them! The Ultimaker S5 has been a real workhorse, printing 24/7 for about a week now, and we have never had a failed print so far! Everything is running very smoothly and I'm extremely pleased with its quality and reliability, as well as its speed (printing on Draft Profile at 0.2 mm layer height, due to the urgency of the situation). Just want to express my thanks to Ultimaker for creating such a wonderful machine. We had some issues earlier on, but they were all sorted out to our complete satisfaction by our reseller in Greece and Ultimaker HQ, whose response was immediate and effective. I'm very pleased to be a user of this machine. I've taken the S5 home to ensure 24/7 printing, and the devil in me wants COVID-19 to keep spreading, so that I can keep it at home printing away... I'm only joking of course! One thing that came out of all of this, is the strong spirit of support, cooperation and contribution from the 3D printing community, always being on our side and offering a helping hand in these times of urgency. Thanks guys! Stay safe, and happy 3D printing!
  13. This is a valid concern, but I believe that standard glass may crack at temperatures exceeding 150~200 °C (see graph in this article), which is more than what the printer can reach. But the repeated heating up and cooling down cycles could probably alleviate the problem, so I would also suggest a piece of borosilicate glass to be absolutely safe.
  14. Hi there, As you've found out the hard way, glue not only helps with adhesion, but also protects the glass plate from damage. What I do (was instructed to do this by my reseller) is to apply a layer of glue (the glue-stick type, like the one that came with the printer), and then use a dampened micro-fibre cloth to gently rub over the glue surface to make it very thin and evenly spread out. I've found that this technique gives me smooth bottom surfaces with good adhesion and no damage to the glass plate (not yet anyway). About the replacement glass plate, I'm sure you can order one from your local reseller. But... 😈 [Evil Idea!] ...what I would try, would be to simply go to a local glass supplier and ask them to cut a piece of glass at the exact dimensions and thickness of the original. This will cost you around 5 € (or $5 in the USA), and you can experiment without worrying about cost. Worst-case scenario: it won't work as good as the original glass plate. No harm done. Haven't tried it yet, but I think it's worth a try.
  15. Thanks Markus, that was a helpful reply. I've also recently recommended the S5 to my company. We had some crashing/freezing issues with 2 printers, all seemingly related to Wi-Fi / internet, which was restricted due to company policy. With the Wi-Fi off, the printer is now operating as it should, and I'm very satisfied with it. It's not my intention to mod the printer, but I would like to be able to maintain it, replace parts as needed, etc. Your experience tells me that this is possible without affecting print quality or causing permanent damage. It's good to know that the S5 is robust enough to preserve its quality after such type of maintenance. About Raise3D, never had an experience with them, so I can't comment on how they compare with the S5. I don't think I will be changing print cores very often, but I do like the easy-swap system that the S5 uses. Changing cores from AA to BB or from AA to CC would probably be my only changes, at least until I gain more experience. In terms of nozzle diameter, I think I'll stick to 0.4 mm for now, as I don't see the need for larger diameters, other than speed, which is not an issue for us (a part taking 1 day or 3 days to print is of no concern to us, we can wait, as we do not produce high quantities).
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