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DrCeeVee last won the day on February 15 2020

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  1. Hi @SandervG, thanks for the comment. My nephew absolutely loved the gift! About layer visibility, I think that it depends on the printer. If the printer is of very high quality, such as the Ultimaker S5, and you also use high quality filament, the layers look almost like they are part of the design, they make the print stand out, and add an element of uniqueness to the object. I don't think an injection-moulded phone holder can look quite like this one!
  2. Hello to the Ultimaker community. I've just printed a mobile phone stand, as a small gift to my nephew. It's a very simple object, but it's so satisfying to look at, especially the silky-smooth surfaces and complete lack of blemishes and imperfections. No post-processing was required, apart from pulling out some piece of support material for an overhang region. Ultimaker S5, Prima Select Yellow PLA, Visual Profile / 0.15 mm Layer Height, Default settings everywhere / no adhesion / PLA supports, Printing time was around 8 hours. What a wonderful print
  3. @Ryan5829 and others experiencing problems: Guys, I really can't think of a reason why my files are not performing as expected. Are you using normal PLA filament? My files are all meant for standard PLA filament, with a standard AA 0.4 mm nozzle and a layer height of 0.2 mm. When you load the files, are you selecting "Open as Project", and do you see the above parameters in Cura? Alternatively, if you want to try the 3D models and their placement as shown in my files, but with your own settings, just load my files and select "Import Models". Important: after loading the
  4. Update: the test print via USB stick (Wi-Fi disabled in printer settings) came out absolutely perfect, without any blobs or other issues. Based on this, it seems that the Wi-Fi may be causing some random freezes which affect head movement during printing. If any of the Ultimaker mods/staff is reading this, please forward my findings to your engineers, as there may be issues with the S5 Wi-Fi and how it interferes with the printing process (it shouldn't). I will keep using the S5 via USB stick for a while, to have more reliable data on print quality, and will then switch back to Wi-
  5. Hi guys, Just a quick post to report that I'm experiencing blobs on my prints, using the latest firmware on my Ultimaker S5 (version: 5.5.12-20200226-UltiBot), and the latest Cura (version: 4.6.1). The print head just freezes for a few seconds (maybe around 5 seconds), and then resumes movement, but it leaves a nasty blob behind it, as the nozzle keeps extruding molten PLA while the head is frozen. The print is otherwise perfect. See attached image. The blobs may happen a few times, depending on the size of the print, and this results in a perfect print with a few large "pimples" o
  6. @dorlik: You still can use my files! Just download my ZIP file, unzip it, open the file you want (x1, x2, x3, x12) as a Project in Cura (not the STL file, but the Cura 3MF Project file), and simply delete the bottom parts before printing. Do a printout without changing any settings, to see if you get the same problems. My files are guaranteed to work on the S5, as I have printed hundreds of face shields using them. They're plug-and-play, you just load filament, load the Cura Project file, prepare your bed plate and press "Print". I've never had a failed print so far... Your photos
  7. Hi @Diego_Medics3D. Saw your Wednesday post, but forgot to reply... Don't worry too much about the stringing between parts in the stacked version. It can happen, because the STL is designed to allow some space between stacked parts, so that they are easily separated after the print completes. This small gap between stacked parts can cause a few layers to stay loose and not get attached to the part they belong to... Just pull them off the part during cleaning/inspection. This issue is one of the reasons why I'm mostly using the 3-shield-per-print, non-stacked version. Pr
  8. @gisley: I've never seen anything like this on my Ultimaker S5... This looks horrible! You must be doing something seriously wrong... One thing I can see is that you are NOT using the project files I uploaded above, or you're not using them correctly. If you did, your print would not have "Adhesion" enabled (it is disabled in all my project files posted above, but it is enabled in your print). Load one of my project files (make sure you use "Open as Project" in the dialogue box), and try again. Also, before you start the print, make sure the material you're using (gener
  9. Hi @geert_2. About your first question, no, there's nothing between the 3D-printed part and skin, so there may be some irritation after prolonged use. The interest here is speed and quantity, not so much comfort and quality. It was impossible to solve this issue in time to have the shields ready for the ICU staff and other health workers in our hospitals. I've tried wearing the shield a couple of times just to test fitness, but not for very long. It felt very nice and smooth on the forehead, but this may not be the case after many hours of wearing it. I guess time will tell how serious this is
  10. Hi again @gisley. I apply glue stick over just the area I'll be printing on. In the case of the protective face shields, I'm using the 3-shield arrangement, which pretty much covers the entire build plate. No need to learn Greek! I'm attaching the entire folder of everything related to the project, including the original STL files, as well as my own Cura project files for the face shield part arrangements (x1, x2, x3, x12). Prusa Research Protective Face Shield (RC3).zip Anyone reading this, feel free to download, use and share.
  11. FDM/FFF printing is very cheap. I've calculated that the cost of filament for this project is 0.84 € / shield. The filament I use is the cheapest I could find. It costs us 21 € / kg. You can clearly see the reduced quality when compared to more expensive / Ultimaker filaments, but it's more than enough for the intended use. It would be a total waste of money to use Tough PLA or any other premium Ultimaker filament for this project, where the aim is speed and quantity, not quality. About print bed handling and adhesion, what I do is spread some UHU Stic glue (like the one that came
  12. Hi @gisley, congrats on getting the S5, you'll love it! About what you're asking, the S5 has a large build plate, so you can fit a lot of shields on it. I've made two types of arrangements. The first one has 3 shields on the plate, as shown below: Using generic PLA on the Draft profile (0.2 mm layer thickness), with no Adhesion (i.e., just a skirt), it prints in 6 hours and 26 minutes (for 3 shields). That's 2 hours and 9 minutes per shield. The other option is to use a x4 stacked version of the shield, available at Prusa Research. Using the stacked version
  13. Hello @SandervG & everyone! Just to let you guys know of what we're doing with our Ultimaker S5 to combat Coronavirus. I've started a thread in the What have you made section. Link below: Using our Ultimaker S5 to print Prusa Face Shields for COVID-19 We are very glad to be able to assist in our hospitals' efforts to fight this threat. We're currently working 24/7 on the production of face shields. It's in times like these that equipment such as 3D printers prove their worth. And our Ultimaker S5 has certainly proved its worth! Stay safe, and
  14. Hello to the Ultimaker community! Just to tell you guys that we are making the most out of our brand-new Ultimaker S5, by printing Protective Face Shields designed by Prusa Research, to help our hospitals fight the Coronavirus (COVID-19). Our Ultimaker distributor in Greece, Thes3D, have kindly lent us an Ultimaker 2+ to add to our production capability, and have even given us some spools of filament for our prints. Many thanks to them! The Ultimaker S5 has been a real workhorse, printing 24/7 for about a week now, and we have never had a failed print so far! Everything
  15. This is a valid concern, but I believe that standard glass may crack at temperatures exceeding 150~200 °C (see graph in this article), which is more than what the printer can reach. But the repeated heating up and cooling down cycles could probably alleviate the problem, so I would also suggest a piece of borosilicate glass to be absolutely safe.
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