Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by DrCeeVee

  1. Thanks! Added to original post.
  2. My Ultimaker S5 was purchased in late 2019. Believe it or not, I'm still using the PVA spool that came with it, with no problems. It was unsealed the day the printer was delivered—December 2019. What I do is to always keep it stored in an air-tight bag—is it called a zip bag?—and only take it out when I want to print something. In the zip bag I use many silica gels that I bake in my kitchen oven at 80° C for a couple of hours, just before resealing the PVA spool. During printing I put the PVA spool in the holder behind the printer, just like normal filament. No special box or other protection,
  3. Will be following this thread with interest. As much as I love my Ultimaker S5 (and that's a lot), I will not be upgrading from Cura 4.8.0 to any other version, unless I see a unanimous positive reaction to the new version from the community. I've wasted two days trying to "fix" my printer, and it was all due to a buggy Cura 4.9.0. Most importantly, I unsealed a brand-new spool of Ultimaker PVA (I thought the old one was to blame) which is now slowly degrading and absorbing moisture. I know we should all be trying new things, helping out, etc., but I'm afraid I cannot a
  4. Hi everyone, it's been a while since I last posted here, and I've been having a great time with my Ultimaker S5. Success rate of 99%, very reliable machine. I can fully confirm the serious issues with Cura 4.9.0 and dual extrusion, that have been reported in this thread. Whether there are two materials of the same type (say, PLA+PLA) or using support material (PLA+PVA), there are very serious problems that render the printer unusable. I spent the entire day yesterday, and several hours today, trying to find out what's causing my S5 to suddenly go crazy... I summarise my experience
  5. Hi @SandervG, thanks for the comment. My nephew absolutely loved the gift! About layer visibility, I think that it depends on the printer. If the printer is of very high quality, such as the Ultimaker S5, and you also use high quality filament, the layers look almost like they are part of the design, they make the print stand out, and add an element of uniqueness to the object. I don't think an injection-moulded phone holder can look quite like this one!
  6. Hello to the Ultimaker community. I've just printed a mobile phone stand, as a small gift to my nephew. It's a very simple object, but it's so satisfying to look at, especially the silky-smooth surfaces and complete lack of blemishes and imperfections. No post-processing was required, apart from pulling out some piece of support material for an overhang region. Ultimaker S5, Prima Select Yellow PLA, Visual Profile / 0.15 mm Layer Height, Default settings everywhere / no adhesion / PLA supports, Printing time was around 8 hours. What a wonderful print
  7. @Ryan5829 and others experiencing problems: Guys, I really can't think of a reason why my files are not performing as expected. Are you using normal PLA filament? My files are all meant for standard PLA filament, with a standard AA 0.4 mm nozzle and a layer height of 0.2 mm. When you load the files, are you selecting "Open as Project", and do you see the above parameters in Cura? Alternatively, if you want to try the 3D models and their placement as shown in my files, but with your own settings, just load my files and select "Import Models". Important: after loading the
  8. Update: the test print via USB stick (Wi-Fi disabled in printer settings) came out absolutely perfect, without any blobs or other issues. Based on this, it seems that the Wi-Fi may be causing some random freezes which affect head movement during printing. If any of the Ultimaker mods/staff is reading this, please forward my findings to your engineers, as there may be issues with the S5 Wi-Fi and how it interferes with the printing process (it shouldn't). I will keep using the S5 via USB stick for a while, to have more reliable data on print quality, and will then switch back to Wi-
  9. Hi guys, Just a quick post to report that I'm experiencing blobs on my prints, using the latest firmware on my Ultimaker S5 (version: 5.5.12-20200226-UltiBot), and the latest Cura (version: 4.6.1). The print head just freezes for a few seconds (maybe around 5 seconds), and then resumes movement, but it leaves a nasty blob behind it, as the nozzle keeps extruding molten PLA while the head is frozen. The print is otherwise perfect. See attached image. The blobs may happen a few times, depending on the size of the print, and this results in a perfect print with a few large "pimples" o
  10. @dorlik: You still can use my files! Just download my ZIP file, unzip it, open the file you want (x1, x2, x3, x12) as a Project in Cura (not the STL file, but the Cura 3MF Project file), and simply delete the bottom parts before printing. Do a printout without changing any settings, to see if you get the same problems. My files are guaranteed to work on the S5, as I have printed hundreds of face shields using them. They're plug-and-play, you just load filament, load the Cura Project file, prepare your bed plate and press "Print". I've never had a failed print so far... Your photos
  11. Hi @Diego_Medics3D. Saw your Wednesday post, but forgot to reply... Don't worry too much about the stringing between parts in the stacked version. It can happen, because the STL is designed to allow some space between stacked parts, so that they are easily separated after the print completes. This small gap between stacked parts can cause a few layers to stay loose and not get attached to the part they belong to... Just pull them off the part during cleaning/inspection. This issue is one of the reasons why I'm mostly using the 3-shield-per-print, non-stacked version. Pr
  12. @gisley: I've never seen anything like this on my Ultimaker S5... This looks horrible! You must be doing something seriously wrong... One thing I can see is that you are NOT using the project files I uploaded above, or you're not using them correctly. If you did, your print would not have "Adhesion" enabled (it is disabled in all my project files posted above, but it is enabled in your print). Load one of my project files (make sure you use "Open as Project" in the dialogue box), and try again. Also, before you start the print, make sure the material you're using (gener
  13. Hi @geert_2. About your first question, no, there's nothing between the 3D-printed part and skin, so there may be some irritation after prolonged use. The interest here is speed and quantity, not so much comfort and quality. It was impossible to solve this issue in time to have the shields ready for the ICU staff and other health workers in our hospitals. I've tried wearing the shield a couple of times just to test fitness, but not for very long. It felt very nice and smooth on the forehead, but this may not be the case after many hours of wearing it. I guess time will tell how serious this is
  14. Hi again @gisley. I apply glue stick over just the area I'll be printing on. In the case of the protective face shields, I'm using the 3-shield arrangement, which pretty much covers the entire build plate. No need to learn Greek! I'm attaching the entire folder of everything related to the project, including the original STL files, as well as my own Cura project files for the face shield part arrangements (x1, x2, x3, x12). Prusa Research Protective Face Shield (RC3).zip Anyone reading this, feel free to download, use and share.
  15. FDM/FFF printing is very cheap. I've calculated that the cost of filament for this project is 0.84 € / shield. The filament I use is the cheapest I could find. It costs us 21 € / kg. You can clearly see the reduced quality when compared to more expensive / Ultimaker filaments, but it's more than enough for the intended use. It would be a total waste of money to use Tough PLA or any other premium Ultimaker filament for this project, where the aim is speed and quantity, not quality. About print bed handling and adhesion, what I do is spread some UHU Stic glue (like the one that came
  16. Hi @gisley, congrats on getting the S5, you'll love it! About what you're asking, the S5 has a large build plate, so you can fit a lot of shields on it. I've made two types of arrangements. The first one has 3 shields on the plate, as shown below: Using generic PLA on the Draft profile (0.2 mm layer thickness), with no Adhesion (i.e., just a skirt), it prints in 6 hours and 26 minutes (for 3 shields). That's 2 hours and 9 minutes per shield. The other option is to use a x4 stacked version of the shield, available at Prusa Research. Using the stacked version
  17. Hello @SandervG & everyone! Just to let you guys know of what we're doing with our Ultimaker S5 to combat Coronavirus. I've started a thread in the What have you made section. Link below: Using our Ultimaker S5 to print Prusa Face Shields for COVID-19 We are very glad to be able to assist in our hospitals' efforts to fight this threat. We're currently working 24/7 on the production of face shields. It's in times like these that equipment such as 3D printers prove their worth. And our Ultimaker S5 has certainly proved its worth! Stay safe, and
  18. Hello to the Ultimaker community! Just to tell you guys that we are making the most out of our brand-new Ultimaker S5, by printing Protective Face Shields designed by Prusa Research, to help our hospitals fight the Coronavirus (COVID-19). Our Ultimaker distributor in Greece, Thes3D, have kindly lent us an Ultimaker 2+ to add to our production capability, and have even given us some spools of filament for our prints. Many thanks to them! The Ultimaker S5 has been a real workhorse, printing 24/7 for about a week now, and we have never had a failed print so far! Everything
  19. This is a valid concern, but I believe that standard glass may crack at temperatures exceeding 150~200 °C (see graph in this article), which is more than what the printer can reach. But the repeated heating up and cooling down cycles could probably alleviate the problem, so I would also suggest a piece of borosilicate glass to be absolutely safe.
  20. Hi there, As you've found out the hard way, glue not only helps with adhesion, but also protects the glass plate from damage. What I do (was instructed to do this by my reseller) is to apply a layer of glue (the glue-stick type, like the one that came with the printer), and then use a dampened micro-fibre cloth to gently rub over the glue surface to make it very thin and evenly spread out. I've found that this technique gives me smooth bottom surfaces with good adhesion and no damage to the glass plate (not yet anyway). About the replacement glass plate, I'm sure you ca
  21. Thanks Markus, that was a helpful reply. I've also recently recommended the S5 to my company. We had some crashing/freezing issues with 2 printers, all seemingly related to Wi-Fi / internet, which was restricted due to company policy. With the Wi-Fi off, the printer is now operating as it should, and I'm very satisfied with it. It's not my intention to mod the printer, but I would like to be able to maintain it, replace parts as needed, etc. Your experience tells me that this is possible without affecting print quality or causing permanent damage. It's good to know that the S5 is r
  22. Markus, it seems you are quite comfortable in swapping, replacing, and adjusting the mechanical parts of your Ultimaker S5, which is a good thing. I'm also generally very comfortable with such things, but I'm a newbie when it comes to Ultimaker printers (and 3D printers in general). I want to ask you if you have noticed any side-effects in print quality and overall behaviour of the printer after you've messed with its mechanics. I mean this in a good way, I also want to be brave enough to mess with it, but its price and my lack of experience in owning and using such an expensive pr
  23. @AdamSFX: I would look at the back of the screen / sensor to see if there is a part number of some sort, and Google it. Maybe the exact same part is available on its own (not through Ultimaker), even on eBay, for much less. Give it a try. Over $1000 for this part is way overpriced! Its actual cost as a separate part is closer to $100 in my experience.
  24. Looks like the print came off the print bed during printing. Whenever this happens, the object's entire structure is lost, and you end up with filament spaghetti most of the time. As Carla points out, there's a lot more to say. For example, do you see the base of the print somewhere? Is it still stuck in the print bed where it should be, or has it come loose by itself? Did you apply some form of adhesive (like glue) on the bed surface before you started printing? Have you used one of the built-in profiles in Cura? Have you modified any settings in Cura? Tell us a bit mo
  25. Many thanks Carla! Already enjoying it immensely. Just to put things in perspective, we've just compared prints between the Ultimaker S5 and the Anycubic i3 Mega (cheap Chinese printer), and it was day and night... The Anycubic is very good for its price, but absolutely nowhere near the quality of the Ultimaker S5, which wins hands down in layer uniformity, speed, repeatability, tolerance accuracy, and first layer flatness. The saying "you get what you pay for" is once more confirmed. Really happy to be able to enjoy this fine machine.
  • Create New...