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Posts posted by DrCeeVee

  1. My Ultimaker S5 was purchased in late 2019. Believe it or not, I'm still using the PVA spool that came with it, with no problems. It was unsealed the day the printer was delivered—December 2019. What I do is to always keep it stored in an air-tight bag—is it called a zip bag?—and only take it out when I want to print something. In the zip bag I use many silica gels that I bake in my kitchen oven at 80° C for a couple of hours, just before resealing the PVA spool. During printing I put the PVA spool in the holder behind the printer, just like normal filament. No special box or other protection, PVA is fully exposed during printing, which can be up to a couple of days each time. After the printing completes, it goes back in the zip bag with the freshly baked silica gels. It works every time, with no problems and no breakage in the Bowden tube, but see below for a very important point:


    The trick for the PVA not to break inside the Bowden tube, is to never reuse the part of the PVA that was previously inserted into the Bowden tube (from the previous print). What I mean is this: when you finish a print and unload the filament from the print core, there is a length of PVA (same length as the Bowden tube) which has already been through the feeder. You can see this by looking at the surface of the PVA filament—you can see the serrations (small teeth markings caused by the feeder). When you unload the PVA, you should always cut off and throw away that serrated part (with the feeder teeth markings). This is the cause of the breakage, because PVA is brittle, and the serrations cause it to break when re-fed through the feeder in the next print.


    Another neat trick to prolong the life of your PVA—I thought about this very recently—is to just measure and cut only the amount you need for a print. You can see this in Cura, it tells you pretty accurately how many meters it needs, so you can open the zip bag, measure the length you need + the length of the Bowden tube (add a little bit more for safety), cut it out and immediately re-seal the PVA spool.


    Just my two cents, hope it helps someone out there.


    • Like 1
  2. Will be following this thread with interest.


    As much as I love my Ultimaker S5 (and that's a lot), I will not be upgrading from Cura 4.8.0 to any other version, unless I see a unanimous positive reaction to the new version from the community. I've wasted two days trying to "fix" my printer, and it was all due to a buggy Cura 4.9.0. Most importantly, I unsealed a brand-new spool of Ultimaker PVA (I thought the old one was to blame) which is now slowly degrading and absorbing moisture.


    I know we should all be trying new things, helping out, etc., but I'm afraid I cannot afford any more printer downtime right now, so I will stick to the excellent and stable Cura 4.8.0 for the time being.

  3. Hi everyone, it's been a while since I last posted here, and I've been having a great time with my Ultimaker S5. Success rate of 99%, very reliable machine.


    I can fully confirm the serious issues with Cura 4.9.0 and dual extrusion, that have been reported in this thread. Whether there are two materials of the same type (say, PLA+PLA) or using support material (PLA+PVA), there are very serious problems that render the printer unusable. I spent the entire day yesterday, and several hours today, trying to find out what's causing my S5 to suddenly go crazy... I summarise my experience below:


    Symptoms with first use of Cura 4.9.0 (upgraded from 4.8.0):

    • Single extrusion prints (just Core 1 being used) print OK, but noticeably slower than with Cura 4.8.0.
    • Dual extrusion prints fail completely. Core 1 prints OK, but Core 2 does not extrude any material at all during printing. It loads the material fine, and extrudes it normally after loading, but it does not extrude at all during printing, resulting in failed prints 100% of the time.
    • Enabling a Prime Blob for both materials causes only the material in Core 1 to make a Prime Blob. Enabling a Prime Blob for the second material generates no Prime Blobs at all.
    • General slowness and abnormal behaviour.
    • Reported print times for the same project are longer than in Cura 4.8.0.

    Initially I thought it was a clogged core issue, although I felt it was weird having a full blockage of the core when it was printing fine a month ago. I tried hot/cold pulls, inserting a needle in the nozzle opening, all sorts of stuff. Every time I tried to print with supports, Core 2 (BB) did not extrude any material at all during printing. I then thought it was the quality of my PVA (opened in December 2019, used numerous times until recently without any problems, always kept in sealed bags when not in use). Again, it felt weird that the same PVA that was printing fine a month ago, suddenly got so much damaged by moisture. So I opened a fresh spool of Ultimaker PVA. Same thing. Same behaviour, no extrusion at all. I nearly ordered a new BB core! I even tried PLA material on a second AA core (AA+AA), same problems.


    I tried downgrading to Cura 4.8.0 as a last resort, not really expecting any changes. Voila! Everything went back to normal. I've just finished a dual extrusion print (PLA+PVA), which looks like it completed perfectly.


    My advice to everyone with an S5, and potentially regardless of printer, is to downgrade to Cura 4.8.0 immediately, until the issues with 4.9.0 have been dealt with. I'm quite surprised that Ultimaker released such a buggy update. Haven't they done any beta testing prior to release?


    Glad my printer is back up and running again!

  4. 1 hour ago, SandervG said:

    @DrCeeVee I just only now saw your post. Very satisfying to see indeed, especially those layers on the side. Some people don't like them, but sometimes such nice layers are more beautiful than a smooth surface. Did your nephew like the phone holder?


    Hi @SandervG, thanks for the comment. My nephew absolutely loved the gift! About layer visibility, I think that it depends on the printer. If the printer is of very high quality, such as the Ultimaker S5, and you also use high quality filament, the layers look almost like they are part of the design, they make the print stand out, and add an element of uniqueness to the object. I don't think an injection-moulded phone holder can look quite like this one!

    • Like 1
  5. Hello to the Ultimaker community. I've just printed a mobile phone stand, as a small gift to my nephew. It's a very simple object, but it's so satisfying to look at, especially the silky-smooth surfaces and complete lack of blemishes and imperfections. No post-processing was required, apart from pulling out some piece of support material for an overhang region.


    Ultimaker S5,

    Prima Select Yellow PLA,

    Visual Profile / 0.15 mm Layer Height,

    Default settings everywhere / no adhesion / PLA supports,

    Printing time was around 8 hours.


    What a wonderful printer. Almost never fails to amaze me every time I use it. Silky-smooth surfaces, no blobs, no blemishes, no need to mess with settings / trial-and-error, no worries, no fuss. Just add some glue to the build plate, load filament, send the job over the network and wait for the specified time. It's just wonderful.


    Enjoy the photos.











    • Like 3
  6. @Ryan5829 and others experiencing problems:


    Guys, I really can't think of a reason why my files are not performing as expected. Are you using normal PLA filament? My files are all meant for standard PLA filament, with a standard AA 0.4 mm nozzle and a layer height of 0.2 mm. When you load the files, are you selecting "Open as Project", and do you see the above parameters in Cura?


    Alternatively, if you want to try the 3D models and their placement as shown in my files, but with your own settings, just load my files and select "Import Models". Important: after loading the models, just uncheck "Adhesion", found on the bottom of the profile settings area (if checked). This will increase the available surface, so that the 12-shield version can fit in the Ultimaker S5 build plate. When you just import the models and not my settings, you are fully responsible for choosing the appropriate material type, layer height, infill, and all other parameters, just as you would when printing any other STL file.


    Still, I find it difficult to believe that printing using my files as complete projects (including my settings) results in the photos you've posted. Are you sure you haven't messed with the printer settings? Could there be a file incompatibility issue between different S5 printers and Cura versions?


    If anyone out there has successfully used my Cura Project files (including my settings) to print Prusa face shields, please let us know by posting a message here, thanks.

  7. Update: the test print via USB stick (Wi-Fi disabled in printer settings) came out absolutely perfect, without any blobs or other issues. Based on this, it seems that the Wi-Fi may be causing some random freezes which affect head movement during printing. If any of the Ultimaker mods/staff is reading this, please forward my findings to your engineers, as there may be issues with the S5 Wi-Fi and how it interferes with the printing process (it shouldn't).


    I will keep using the S5 via USB stick for a while, to have more reliable data on print quality, and will then switch back to Wi-Fi to see if the blobs come back, so as to have a more definite result.


    Will report here what I find.



  8. Hi guys,


    Just a quick post to report that I'm experiencing blobs on my prints, using the latest firmware on my Ultimaker S5 (version: 5.5.12-20200226-UltiBot), and the latest Cura (version: 4.6.1). The print head just freezes for a few seconds (maybe around 5 seconds), and then resumes movement, but it leaves a nasty blob behind it, as the nozzle keeps extruding molten PLA while the head is frozen. The print is otherwise perfect. See attached image. The blobs may happen a few times, depending on the size of the print, and this results in a perfect print with a few large "pimples" on its outer surface, which I have to shave off using a razor blade. I'm using non-Ultimaker, but high quality PLA, the same that has given me many prints without blobs or any other issues in the past.


    With the older f/w and/or Cura (can't remember the exact versions), and after printing hundreds of face shields for COVID-19, I never experienced a single blob. During the course of using the S5, I've promptly updated the f/w and Cura whenever I was notified of updates. I started noticing the blobs about a week ago, but I haven't been using the printer much lately, so it could go a bit further back. I'm not sure if the f/w or Cura or something else causes it, but it's definitely there.


    I'm on Wi-Fi, if that makes any difference. I had to stop a test print I was doing earlier, due to a blob appearing on the outer surface. The attached image is from that print. I'm now repeating the exact same print with the exact same material and settings, but using a USB stick as the source of the data, and have switched off Wi-Fi from the S5 Network options menu. This is to rule out any network issues. Will report back when the test print completes (14 hours to go).


    Is anyone else out there experiencing similar behaviour? Any info, comments, advice, are greatly appreciated, thanks.



  9. @dorlik: You still can use my files! Just download my ZIP file, unzip it, open the file you want (x1, x2, x3, x12) as a Project in Cura (not the STL file, but the Cura 3MF Project file), and simply delete the bottom parts before printing. Do a printout without changing any settings, to see if you get the same problems. My files are guaranteed to work on the S5, as I have printed hundreds of face shields using them. They're plug-and-play, you just load filament, load the Cura Project file, prepare your bed plate and press "Print". I've never had a failed print so far...


    Your photos look horrible! Have you changed any settings in the standard Cura profiles? Because this can dramatically affect how the printer behaves... Make sure you do a test to see if your S5 prints OK using one of the standard profiles (nothing changed by you).


    Good luck, and keep those printers printing!

  10. Hi @Diego_Medics3D. Saw your Wednesday post, but forgot to reply...


    Don't worry too much about the stringing between parts in the stacked version. It can happen, because the STL is designed to allow some space between stacked parts, so that they are easily separated after the print completes. This small gap between stacked parts can cause a few layers to stay loose and not get attached to the part they belong to... Just pull them off the part during cleaning/inspection.


    This issue is one of the reasons why I'm mostly using the 3-shield-per-print, non-stacked version. Production speed is almost the same, but attention is needed every 6.5 hours, while the 12-shield stacked version has the advantage of allowing you to just leave it printing unattended for a full 24+ hours.


    Great work guys, keep printing those shields!

  11. @gisley: I've never seen anything like this on my Ultimaker S5... This looks horrible! You must be doing something seriously wrong...


    One thing I can see is that you are NOT using the project files I uploaded above, or you're not using them correctly. If you did, your print would not have "Adhesion" enabled (it is disabled in all my project files posted above, but it is enabled in your print).


    Load one of my project files (make sure you use "Open as Project" in the dialogue box), and try again. Also, before you start the print, make sure the material you're using (generic/Ultimaker PLA, possibly Tough PLA) is correctly configured in Cura. My project files use generic PLA, which should work OK even with Ultimaker PLA/Tough PLA. If you're using non-PLA-based material, that's a whole new game and you need to experiment.


    Follow the above advice as closely as you can, and try again.

  12. Hi @geert_2. About your first question, no, there's nothing between the 3D-printed part and skin, so there may be some irritation after prolonged use. The interest here is speed and quantity, not so much comfort and quality. It was impossible to solve this issue in time to have the shields ready for the ICU staff and other health workers in our hospitals. I've tried wearing the shield a couple of times just to test fitness, but not for very long. It felt very nice and smooth on the forehead, but this may not be the case after many hours of wearing it. I guess time will tell how serious this issue is...


    The inside of the shield (the part that touches the forehead) is inspected, and lightly scrubbed if necessary, in order to remove print imperfections, such as filament strings, small bumps, and loose filament particles. There is no chemical smoothing involved, and the layer lines are present.


    The lower strap serves two purposes: firstly, to help the visor maintain its curved, symmetrical shape, and secondly, to aid in visually locating the lower edge of the visor. Ideally, everything should be printed in bright orange colour, but this is often sold out and we end up just using what's available to us.


    Indeed, the shield could also be used for general protection from fluid splashes, as well as from bits and pieces flying around. In my field of work (I'm an electronics engineer) we intend to use this type of shield for protection when testing electronic devices, where components can become projectiles and cause serious injury.


    I must admit I was very reluctant to the idea of printing face shields. I thought it couldn't be done. But I was proven wrong by my very own Ultimaker S5, with its amazing quality, reliability and speed. Overall, my impression of this project is very positive. The printer has certainly proved its worth, printing non-stop since Wednesday 1 April 2020 -- I can hear it next to me right now, tirelessly printing away...

    • Like 1
  13. 6 hours ago, gisley said:

    Once again great information.  Do you glue stick the entire plate or just the area you will be printing?  Formlabs slicing software automatically fixes stl files with issues.  Does Cura do that or do I need to run it through Meshmixer or Netfabb?


    Thanks again.


    Hi again @gisley. I apply glue stick over just the area I'll be printing on. In the case of the protective face shields, I'm using the 3-shield arrangement, which pretty much covers the entire build plate.



    6 hours ago, gisley said:

    Is there any chance you could send me your stl Cura setup file for 3 masks.  The navigation aspect will be like me learning greek.  As a totally unrelated aside I spent 6 years off and on trying to learn Homeric greek. 


    No need to learn Greek! I'm attaching the entire folder of everything related to the project, including the original STL files, as well as my own Cura project files for the face shield part arrangements (x1, x2, x3, x12).


    Prusa Research Protective Face Shield (RC3).zip


    Anyone reading this, feel free to download, use and share.

    • Like 1
  14. 4 hours ago, gisley said:

    Great information, thank you. I am totally unfamiliar with the FMD process.  I have been using my Formlabs Form 2 to print reusable face masks.  I  use the Montana Billings Clinic model.  At $160 a liter it gets expensive.  With Formlabs software all you have to set  is your resolution, 25, 50 or 100 microns.  I have no experience with Cura 4.5.  But since it is made by the makers of the printer I imagine it will work best with their product.  I will probably just stick to 3 prints per session until I start to learn the nuances of the technique.  Is there any trick getting the print off of the built plate, glue, raft..etc?  What inexpensive filament would you recommend?


    FDM/FFF printing is very cheap. I've calculated that the cost of filament for this project is 0.84 € / shield. The filament I use is the cheapest I could find. It costs us 21 € / kg. You can clearly see the reduced quality when compared to more expensive / Ultimaker filaments, but it's more than enough for the intended use. It would be a total waste of money to use Tough PLA or any other premium Ultimaker filament for this project, where the aim is speed and quantity, not quality.


    About print bed handling and adhesion, what I do is spread some UHU Stic glue (like the one that came with the printer -- in fact, I still have the original), and then use some almost dripping-wet kitchen towel to spread the glue evenly on the bed surface. This works best when the bed is cold. When done right, this creates a thin and even film of glue over the glass (any excess water from the wet kitchen towel is quickly evaporated when the bed is heated up). The layer of glue ensures that the prints are firmly glued to the surface while printing.


    After the printing is finished, I wait for the bed to cool down first. I look at the colours of the print head(s) as a virtual timer. When red turns to blue and the cooling fan stops, then it's time to remove the part from the bed. For difficult parts with large surfaces, I leave the bed to completely cool down first, and then the parts just pop off very easily. There is usually no need to reapply glue for subsequent prints. What I do is simply use the almost dripping-wet kitchen towel technique to spread the existing glue. This can last for days of printing, at least for the shields it does.


    After completing a big printing session and there's nothing else planned for printing in the following days, I take out the glass and wash it completely clean and spotless in the bath/shower. The great thing about the UHU Stic glue is that it's water-soluble, so you just rinse the glass with warm water in the shower and it melts away. It's probably not really necessary to completely clean the bed, I guess it's just me wanting things to be nice and clean...


    About the shields, don't use a brim or raft. Using a brim (or, even worse, a raft) will make your life difficult, as it can be very time-consuming to separate the brim/raft from the actual part. Just deselect Adhesion in Cura. This will disable brim/raft and will simply generate a small skirt around the print, whose only purpose is to prime the nozzle for starting the print. Let the glue do the work, and you'll end up with a ready-to-use part, with only very minimal, if any, post-processing required. The skirt can be seen in the attached image, showing a print of 3 shields that was completed earlier today.


    Hope this helps you in your first steps with FDM/FFF and the S5. Once you get the hang of it, it's a guaranteed near-100% success setup.



  15. 5 hours ago, gisley said:

    I am getting my S5 Friday.  How many frames can you get on a build plate.    I read somewhere where they mentioned stackable printing, or  do I have that wrong?


    Hi @gisley, congrats on getting the S5, you'll love it! About what you're asking, the S5 has a large build plate, so you can fit a lot of shields on it. I've made two types of arrangements. The first one has 3 shields on the plate, as shown below:




    Using generic PLA on the Draft profile (0.2 mm layer thickness), with no Adhesion (i.e., just a skirt), it prints in 6 hours and 26 minutes (for 3 shields). That's 2 hours and 9 minutes per shield.


    The other option is to use a x4 stacked version of the shield, available at Prusa Research. Using the stacked version, I was able to fit 12 shields on the plate, as shown below:






    This arrangement, again using generic PLA on the Draft profile (0.2 mm layer thickness), with no Adhesion (i.e., just a skirt), prints in 1 day, 3 hours and 5 minutes (for 12 shields). That's 2 hours and 16 minutes per shield.


    I'm using the 3-shield option for several reasons, the main one being that there is no need to separate the masks from each other, and also there's no need to print vertical supports for the little hooks that hold the visor, which sometimes detach from the bed and can ruin the print if left unattended. Also, the 12-shield option requires almost exactly 500 g of filament, meaning that, on a 750 g spool, the second print will pause half way, which defies the benefit of 24-hour non-stop printing. Overall, the 3-shield option is a cleaner arrangement in my opinion, and, as you can see, it's even slightly faster than the 12-shield option. The only disadvantage of the 3-shield option is that it requires your attention every 6.5 hours, to remove the print and start another. I've arranged my timing so that I start a print just before going to bed, and wake up when it has just finished printing.


    Print times can be reduced further, by selecting a layer thickness of 0.25 mm. This will reduce the print times of both arrangements by 15%, at the expense of print quality. I've stayed with 0.2 mm, but you can experiment with 0.25 mm and see if the result is acceptable for you. It very much depends on the quality of the filament too. I'm using the cheapest filament I could find, so I don't want to risk pushing it too much. Experiment, and see what works best for you.


    5 hours ago, gisley said:

    Also what are you using for the clear plastic part?  Thanks.


    I'm using a laser-cut transparent visor, which a local company makes for around 1 € per piece, at the exact specifications as published by Prusa Research. I get the visors and rubber bands from this local company, and manually assemble everything. This is the final product:




    I hope this information helps you and others out there. Feel free to ask anything about the printing process, etc. I'm happy to help in any way I can.

  16. Hello @SandervG & everyone!


    Just to let you guys know of what we're doing with our Ultimaker S5 to combat Coronavirus. I've started a thread in the What have you made section. Link below:


    Using our Ultimaker S5 to print Prusa Face Shields for COVID-19


    We are very glad to be able to assist in our hospitals' efforts to fight this threat. We're currently working 24/7 on the production of face shields. It's in times like these that equipment such as 3D printers prove their worth. And our Ultimaker S5 has certainly proved its worth!


    Stay safe, and happy 3D printing!

    • Thanks 1
  17. Hello to the Ultimaker community!


    Just to tell you guys that we are making the most out of our brand-new Ultimaker S5, by printing Protective Face Shields designed by Prusa Research, to help our hospitals fight the Coronavirus (COVID-19). Our Ultimaker distributor in Greece, Thes3D, have kindly lent us an Ultimaker 2+ to add to our production capability, and have even given us some spools of filament for our prints. Many thanks to them!


    The Ultimaker S5 has been a real workhorse, printing 24/7 for about a week now, and we have never had a failed print so far! Everything is running very smoothly and I'm extremely pleased with its quality and reliability, as well as its speed (printing on Draft Profile at 0.2 mm layer height, due to the urgency of the situation).


    Just want to express my thanks to Ultimaker for creating such a wonderful machine. We had some issues earlier on, but they were all sorted out to our complete satisfaction by our reseller in Greece and Ultimaker HQ, whose response was immediate and effective. I'm very pleased to be a user of this machine. I've taken the S5 home to ensure 24/7 printing, and the devil in me wants COVID-19 to keep spreading, so that I can keep it at home printing away... I'm only joking of course!


    One thing that came out of all of this, is the strong spirit of support, cooperation and contribution from the 3D printing community, always being on our side and offering a helping hand in these times of urgency. Thanks guys!


    Stay safe, and happy 3D printing!



    • Like 2
  18. 6 minutes ago, Smithy said:

    Under no circumstances should it be normal window glass, otherwise there is a risk that the glass will crack if it is repeatedly heated and cooled down. I would be very careful. But borosilicate glass should work and is probably cheaper than an original plate.


    This is a valid concern, but I believe that standard glass may crack at temperatures exceeding 150~200 °C (see graph in this article), which is more than what the printer can reach. But the repeated heating up and cooling down cycles could probably alleviate the problem, so I would also suggest a piece of borosilicate glass to be absolutely safe.



  19. Hi there,


    As you've found out the hard way, glue not only helps with adhesion, but also protects the glass plate from damage. What I do (was instructed to do this by my reseller) is to apply a layer of glue (the glue-stick type, like the one that came with the printer), and then use a dampened micro-fibre cloth to gently rub over the glue surface to make it very thin and evenly spread out. I've found that this technique gives me smooth bottom surfaces with good adhesion and no damage to the glass plate (not yet anyway).


    About the replacement glass plate, I'm sure you can order one from your local reseller. But... 😈


    [Evil Idea!] ...what I would try, would be to simply go to a local glass supplier and ask them to cut a piece of glass at the exact dimensions and thickness of the original. This will cost you around 5 € (or $5 in the USA), and you can experiment without worrying about cost. Worst-case scenario: it won't work as good as the original glass plate. No harm done. Haven't tried it yet, but I think it's worth a try.

  20. Thanks Markus, that was a helpful reply. I've also recently recommended the S5 to my company. We had some crashing/freezing issues with 2 printers, all seemingly related to Wi-Fi / internet, which was restricted due to company policy. With the Wi-Fi off, the printer is now operating as it should, and I'm very satisfied with it.


    It's not my intention to mod the printer, but I would like to be able to maintain it, replace parts as needed, etc. Your experience tells me that this is possible without affecting print quality or causing permanent damage. It's good to know that the S5 is robust enough to preserve its quality after such type of maintenance.


    About Raise3D, never had an experience with them, so I can't comment on how they compare with the S5. I don't think I will be changing print cores very often, but I do like the easy-swap system that the S5 uses. Changing cores from AA to BB or from AA to CC would probably be my only changes, at least until I gain more experience. In terms of nozzle diameter, I think I'll stick to 0.4 mm for now, as I don't see the need for larger diameters, other than speed, which is not an issue for us (a part taking 1 day or 3 days to print is of no concern to us, we can wait, as we do not produce high quantities).

    • Like 1
  21. Markus, it seems you are quite comfortable in swapping, replacing, and adjusting the mechanical parts of your Ultimaker S5, which is a good thing.


    I'm also generally very comfortable with such things, but I'm a newbie when it comes to Ultimaker printers (and 3D printers in general). I want to ask you if you have noticed any side-effects in print quality and overall behaviour of the printer after you've messed with its mechanics. I mean this in a good way, I also want to be brave enough to mess with it, but its price and my lack of experience in owning and using such an expensive printer prevents me (for now) from touching it in this way.


    Have you ever caused any irreparable damage or permanent degradation in the print quality of the printer? Also, have you noticed any improvement in print quality as a result of your actions? Generally, is the S5 robust enough to be able to take a beating when it comes to its mechanics (belts, rods, bushings, lead screw, etc.)?


    Thanks for any insights, just trying to get a feel of how robust and serviceable the S5 mechanics are...

  22. @AdamSFX:


    I would look at the back of the screen / sensor to see if there is a part number of some sort, and Google it. Maybe the exact same part is available on its own (not through Ultimaker), even on eBay, for much less. Give it a try.


    Over $1000 for this part is way overpriced! Its actual cost as a separate part is closer to $100 in my experience.

  23. Looks like the print came off the print bed during printing. Whenever this happens, the object's entire structure is lost, and you end up with filament spaghetti most of the time.


    As Carla points out, there's a lot more to say. For example, do you see the base of the print somewhere? Is it still stuck in the print bed where it should be, or has it come loose by itself? Did you apply some form of adhesive (like glue) on the bed surface before you started printing? Have you used one of the built-in profiles in Cura? Have you modified any settings in Cura?


    Tell us a bit more so we can help determine the cause.

    • Like 1
  24. 2 hours ago, Carla_Birch said:

    Happy to see you got them working, happy printing hopefully now going forward.


    Many thanks Carla! Already enjoying it immensely.


    Just to put things in perspective, we've just compared prints between the Ultimaker S5 and the Anycubic i3 Mega (cheap Chinese printer), and it was day and night... The Anycubic is very good for its price, but absolutely nowhere near the quality of the Ultimaker S5, which wins hands down in layer uniformity, speed, repeatability, tolerance accuracy, and first layer flatness.


    The saying "you get what you pay for" is once more confirmed. Really happy to be able to enjoy this fine machine.

    • Like 1
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