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  1. Yes, assuming you printed the same file, or had the same configuration. As an example of that, I was seeing the problem on my printer (not an S5 to be clear), every time I printed that file, but when I fixed the configuration and regenerated it (set all the temps the same), the problem went away as it no longer had a reason to pause. (Although, it really shouldn't have been interpreting that command as one to pause, from what I saw in the GCode - so that could be a firmware issue on the printer)
  2. Oh, one other comment.... I found another place I had to change the temp, so now everything is set to 210, and I am not seeing the pause and melt problem. It doesn't seem like it is handled well when it needs to raise/lower the temp of the hot end though. If you are having a pause issue, and you are doing a two color print, you might want to make sure the temps of both hot ends are the same (set in the material, initial layer temp and a few other places it seems - not sure, just remember I had another one I just found).. I think they need to change their code to move the hotend over to some 'home' location to let it heat to the new temp, Although, as far as I was able to tell, it shouldn't be pausing for the temp change (based on the GCodes I was seeing)
  3. The Creality is working fine, this was the A10T Cheap Chinese printer that is working fine with every slicer except Ultimaker - And yes, to be fair, I am still dialing in the settings for it. And as someone pointed out, the new slicer doesn't handle (or expect) two hotends to share a temp sensor - even if they are configured as having a common extrusion point (as is the case with how I'm setup - 3 extruders, and all of them have a 0 offset for x and y. I started with the 'custom' printer and went from there, It is a Bowden Extruder, but I presume, because it is heavier than a normal one, it can't be jerked around as fast? (although, it is the Y axis that is slipping, not the hot end, so that doesn't make sense to me)
  4. The problem is in the generated GCode, WTF are you are trying to do here: T0 M109 S205 M104 T0 S210 You change the temp to be at least 205, then wait for it to be 210. It is never extruded at 205, I'm not sure where the 205 even comes from as I've changed the standby temp to 210. (Also, if you are doing a standby, how about moving the hotend someplace where it is less likely to gork things up before you wait for the temp to change. This is interesting too: I have ONE physical hotend, but you do: T1 ; Select tool 1 G92 E0 M105 M109 S205 M104 T0 S210 Select Tool 1 (extruder 1, or the 2nd one), then M109 to 205 degrees And change the temp of Tool 0 to 210, which is the same temp sensor as T1... I think maybe the printer is just as confused as I am about what is going on... Somewhere the slicer is getting confused and spewing out weird stuff, I think the printer may be having some issues.. (Marlin 1.8.1 I think - the stupid printer seems to ship with really old software, I think it was 2017..) I'm printing this file (two color isn't on the CR10, I'm using a GeeeTech A10T, which I removed the (horrible designed) 3 head hot end, and (using the CR10) 3-D printed a new Hot End holder that supports a Diamond Hotend, moved over the temp sensor, and converted the Diamond Hotend to use a 30W 24v heater (which works on one of the 3 heater ports without overheating the MB) - which has worked perfectly as long as I don't use the Ultimaker slicer - I can print just fine with Slic3r, and Cura (through the Rep. Host software) Also of note, I replaced the heat breaks with ones where the plastic tubes goes all the way to the start of the break - to keep it hot anywhere it might stick when retracted (see below) But I just tossed another print that I tried to print using Ultimaker as it had several places where it sat and melted/dripped more plastic into the model making a bump that it had to try to print over... I can fix the file by removing ALL of the temp change M109's BTW: The GeeeTech A10T is an interesting printer, I got A10M 3 times from Amazon and returned all of them with extruder problems. the A10T had black PLA harden in it to the point I couldn't get it to melt - even heating to 250C, and I switched to another extruder port (moved tubes) and it happened again. I sent one of these back with issues, but then decided I liked the printer, and wanted to just replace the head with one that worked better. I may have figured out that the issue was with the slicer retracting too far... it caused it to retract into a cool area, where the PLA hardened, but because it was a cool area that never gets hot, there was no way to unstick it. It appears the new head wants 2mm retraction and not the 8-16mm that was previously configured...
  5. I've been running a Creality CR10 for years (5?), and I leveled the bed once, got the settings dialed in, and after that I just send a job to it and it prints perfectly. Not seen much 'minder's that have had to be done - I've even moved the printer and not had any issues following that. Things I've noted: 1. I've NEVER had a clog with this printer. Not once. 2. I've never replaced the print head 3. I've never screwed around with the bed, I heat it to 70C, using a bed that is made of the PEI Sheet that is 1/8" thick or so, it sticks perfectly (0.25mm first layer) - and I mean sticks HARD! And then it cools, and just falls off... Perfect print every time - unless I do something stupid in the model. 4. On this printer, I print only PLA or mostly, PLA+ (eSun's material) - and I don't worry about keeping it sealed up.. I might have a single roll on there out in the air for 3 months or more and go and print another perfect print. 5. I have a Raspberry PI Zero with WiFi connected to it, and I print using the web UI In reference to the blob in the Ultimaker prints, ironically, you can fix that by switching to Cura... the one in the Repitier Host, which is (also ironcially) not compatiable with the one that is in ultimaker (why on earth can't I import settings from another product, that is the same product, made by the same company?) I also find that slicer easier to configure and I get perfect prints using either it or the slic3r slicer. The problem I have with the Ultimaker Cura slicer is: 1. out of the box with a custom printer, the settings are pretty crazy, and I had it jerk the printer around so much that it skipped steps when printing and I had to slow it to about 40% speed on the printer to get it to print. Yes, those settings can be set, but the UI is sub-moronic the way you edit it. (I'd setup a printer first, setup a material, and then load up a print... Nope, you load up a print in order to change the settings for the materials and printer settings - exporting back those settings into the print..) You can also have crazy issues (like the blob) that appears to be caused by the slicer deciding that the print head should be 205 degrees instead of 210 that is specified in BOTH materials (WTF? if I have 20 colors of PLA+ I have to configure 20 places for each color to set the temp, and if I have 10 suppliers of PLA, I have 10*20 to setup my colors for each material so I can see them differently when I do a 2 color print... Have a default color, and be able to override it in the print selection for that extruder... I should be able to assume that all eSun PLA+ is printed at the same temp settings, but actually has different colors) Anyway, I think the blob is caused because you are printing along with Black PLA at 210 degrees, and it finishes up with that, and says WOAH! Let's stop right here (over print) and cool down to 205... OK, got that, good.. (15-20 seconds to cool off), OK, now that we made a mess of our print, let's switch to Orange PLA at 210 degrees... Um, well, need to warm back up... and more extrudes from the heat.. OK, good to go, we go to the waste tower and switch colors... It seems there is some 'default' temp somewhere that also needs to be set, I've set the standby temp and the print temp to both 210 in both colors, but maybe I have to restart the app to get it to be set everywhere, I don't remember how I fixed this last time... Just remember shaking my head at the UI... (Speaking of which, it took me FOREVER to figure out that the global settings for a printer JUST set the visibility of the options, and you have to find the place to click on - once you have a job loaded! to change those options and reverse export them back to the global settings for that printer... wasted HOURS as I wasn't ready to start printing yet...) -Traderhut Games
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