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sparkix

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  1. I did get a project file from tech support to try. However, it didn't solve the problem of heating the unused extruder. It also made my prints significantly worse than the settings I was using.
  2. I did get a project file from tech support to try. However, it didn't solve the problem of heating the unused extruder. It also made my prints significantly worse than the settings I was using.
  3. What did they end up sending you? Instructions? Profile for Cura?
  4. The only thing I don't like about this is that it is cooking the other extruder (even if empty). It is also likely to cause heat distortion of the print because the second hot nozzle is so close. I may make 2 printers configurations (one as a single extruder version and the other as a double extruder version).
  5. I tried the hack the Reddit user did and made a custom filament with zero temperature to try and disable the extruder that isn't being used. But that isn't working well because it still tries to prime both extruders but the feeder clicks when trying to extruder at room temp. I need to find a better way to disable the unused extruder. BTW, I verified that the nozzle offset is 34mm.
  6. I have been using these settings as well for a day now. Things are working well, but I've inherited the same issue that the Reddit user had where both nozzles heat up despite one extruder being disabled in cura. it got me to thinking that the start/end gcode might need to be separated and placed into the extruder gcode sections (currently blank). Does this make sense? Using this as a Gcode guide: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin I'm thinking of changing my printer start G-code to this (not yet moving extruder related commands to the extruder G-code): Main
  7. Another thing to note... when using the ulitmaker account to login and change values. The changes are temporary and do not survive a power cycle. To make permanent changes, the values must be written to actual .json files.
  8. I redesigned the calibration cube and reset the step/mm parameters back to defaults and am printing another cube as a baseline. Here is the cube I made which added features to mitigate the printing artifacts from getting in the way of making measurements. The axis indicators I shrunk and put them in the corners so that there is plenty of space for calipers. Also I added a chamfer to the edges on the build plate to prevent squish errors from adhesion and added a fillet to the vertical edges to prevent inertial overshoot. BTW, that serial cable seems like cheap insurance in case s
  9. We have been using the U5 for a while now. I recently got around to printing out a 20mm calibration cube to check the accuracy. I found that it was off slightly my cube turned out to be: 20.34mm x 20.25mm x 19.93mm. I simply wanted a way to tweak the steps/mm instead of using the fancy offset calibration grid (which is highly subjective - if leaving the ladder grid on the glass bed, there is parallax viewing error). What I did was measure the actual cube with calipers and wanted to change the steps/mm value to correct. I found that the firmware can be unpacked easily with
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