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sparkix

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  1. sparkix

    Qidi X-pro

    I did get a project file from tech support to try. However, it didn't solve the problem of heating the unused extruder. It also made my prints significantly worse than the settings I was using.
  2. sparkix

    Qidi X-pro

    I did get a project file from tech support to try. However, it didn't solve the problem of heating the unused extruder. It also made my prints significantly worse than the settings I was using.
  3. sparkix

    Qidi X-pro

    What did they end up sending you? Instructions? Profile for Cura?
  4. sparkix

    Qidi X-pro

    The only thing I don't like about this is that it is cooking the other extruder (even if empty). It is also likely to cause heat distortion of the print because the second hot nozzle is so close. I may make 2 printers configurations (one as a single extruder version and the other as a double extruder version).
  5. sparkix

    Qidi X-pro

    I tried the hack the Reddit user did and made a custom filament with zero temperature to try and disable the extruder that isn't being used. But that isn't working well because it still tries to prime both extruders but the feeder clicks when trying to extruder at room temp. I need to find a better way to disable the unused extruder. BTW, I verified that the nozzle offset is 34mm.
  6. sparkix

    Qidi X-pro

    I have been using these settings as well for a day now. Things are working well, but I've inherited the same issue that the Reddit user had where both nozzles heat up despite one extruder being disabled in cura. it got me to thinking that the start/end gcode might need to be separated and placed into the extruder gcode sections (currently blank). Does this make sense? Using this as a Gcode guide: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin I'm thinking of changing my printer start G-code to this (not yet moving extruder related commands to the extruder G-code): Main change being that it waits for the bed to reach temp before heating the extruders. G92 A0 B0 G28 X0 Y0 G0 X-1000 Y-1000 F1800 G28 Z0 G1 X0 Y0 Z50 F3600 G1 X0 Y0 F3600 M140 S{material_bed_temperature} M190 S{material_bed_temperature} M104 S{material_print_temperature, 0} T0 M104 S{material_print_temperature, 1} T1 M109 S{material_print_temperature, 0} T0 M109 S{material_print_temperature, 1} T1 G92 E0 G92 A0 B0 G0 X0 Y4 Z0.3 F3600 G1 X{machine_width} A18 F2400 G1 X{machine_width} Y5 F2400 G1 X35 B18 F2400 G92 A0 B0 G1 X35 F2400 Also, could someone explain why there are (what seems to be) redundant commands in the printer end G-code? Why can't it be: M107 M104 S0 T0 M104 S0 T1 M140 S0 G92 E0 G1 Z{machine_height} F900 G28 X0 Y0 M84 M82 ;absolute extrusion mode If I moved extruder related G-code commands from the printer section to the extruder sections, how do I ensure that the printer waits until the bed is at temp before executing the extruder heat commands? Edit: Here are some more settings from the Simplify3D forum: https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?t=8964
  7. Another thing to note... when using the ulitmaker account to login and change values. The changes are temporary and do not survive a power cycle. To make permanent changes, the values must be written to actual .json files.
  8. I redesigned the calibration cube and reset the step/mm parameters back to defaults and am printing another cube as a baseline. Here is the cube I made which added features to mitigate the printing artifacts from getting in the way of making measurements. The axis indicators I shrunk and put them in the corners so that there is plenty of space for calipers. Also I added a chamfer to the edges on the build plate to prevent squish errors from adhesion and added a fillet to the vertical edges to prevent inertial overshoot. BTW, that serial cable seems like cheap insurance in case something goes wrong. Do you have any details on how it is used? I poked around www.olimex.com/ but didn't really know what to look for. Also, where does this attach to on the U5? The STL is attached and should orient itself correctly in all slicers (I verified with Cura 4.4 and Makerbot Print) MC Calibration Cube.STL
  9. We have been using the U5 for a while now. I recently got around to printing out a 20mm calibration cube to check the accuracy. I found that it was off slightly my cube turned out to be: 20.34mm x 20.25mm x 19.93mm. I simply wanted a way to tweak the steps/mm instead of using the fancy offset calibration grid (which is highly subjective - if leaving the ladder grid on the glass bed, there is parallax viewing error). What I did was measure the actual cube with calipers and wanted to change the steps/mm value to correct. I found that the firmware can be unpacked easily with 7zip so that I could look around (it is a squashfs unix filesystem). I eventually found the steps/mm values in a file here: /usr/share/griffin/griffin/machines/9051.json New X value = 144*20/20.34 = 141.6 New Y value = 144*20/20.25 = 142.2 New Z value = 400*20/19.93 = 401.4 (although I may leave this at 400 because I can't remember at what layer height I printed the cube) After a day of playing around with it, I enabled SSH in developer mode and found how to log in (there are 2 accounts which have very different capabilities). I used the "ultimaker" account and the list/set commands to alter these 3 parameters: list set steps_per_mm_x = 141.6 set steps_per_mm_y = 142.2 set steps_per_mm_z = 401.4 You have to be careful where you measure a part that you aren't measuring on any highpoints because of printing artifacts (ie. over extrusion, ringing near sharp corners, squish adhesion to the bed on the first layer). I will poke around with the "root" account where I can make a copy of the original file and alter the defaults directly. I haven't yet found all the linux commands that are available because this OS is slimmed down a lot. It looks like vi is an available editor.
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