Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. That's basically stair stepping due to layer lines. Easiest way to get rid of it is to change the orientation of the print, but that will probably lead to supports. Or there is a method out there called non-linear printing, but it involves digging into the g-code.
  2. Thanks I will look into that. I was also guessing was something along those lines, but wasn't sure where to begin.... there are so many different settings that could tie into that. We definitely need the high layer adhesion these will be working parts that we hope to spin at 3600 RPM.
  3. For watertight lid I would look at putting an o-ring groove into part of it. That way when you screw/clamp the two parts together it compresses the o-ring creating a water tight seal. I would shoot for a 200 series o-ring with approx. 20% compression. Regarding material - my company was prototyping some water tight enclosures for electronics and we settled on Polycarbonate. In submersion tests we kept it underwater (shallow) for 3 months straight and it did not warp, change shape, or change dimensions over time. Polycarbonate also has the advantage of being a very strong material t
  4. If you printed it laying on the big flat side could you print it without supports?
  5. So we are printing a part that is basically a cylinder at the beginning and noticed the only on the OD of the part we are getting lines on the OD where each layer starts, then about 1/4 of the way around the part they blend back into the part. On the same part the ID looks fantastic! It's super noticeable on the first few layers as well. I have it set to randomize the layer starts, and I printed one with the layer starts lined up and it was really obvious to see. We love how strong the NylonX is, I just need to figure out how to get it to not over-extrude at the start of each layer. Any sugges
  6. Basically we have all seen times where the first layer isn't printing quite right, either too smooshed or maybe a little bit gappy. This can occur even after leveling your bed - especially if you switch between materials very often. Right now you see a lot of people talking about reaching in and tweaking the bed leveling screws to either lower or raise the bed while it is printing the first layer. That works but is is not accurate and then after the print is done you have to manually level your bed again because you probably did not turn all three knobs by the exact same amount. Li
  7. So I use an Ultimaker S5 Pro bundle at work, and have a Prusa MK3 at home. The one feature that I really wish Ultimaker had (that is on my Prusa) is the live Z adjust - Prusa lets you twist the input nob to adjust the Z mid print by .1mm per click of the knob. What's super nice is that it adjusts at a controlled rate across the entire bed vs. trying to twist the adjustment knobs on the Ultimaker and hope you keep the bed level and you have no idea of exactly how far you adjusted. Ultimaker could build it into the firmware so there was a menu you could access during printing that l
  8. Oliveros - thank you! I am actually looking for a material to use instead of Polycarbonate. Our biggest issue has been that the pump impeller is basically a big disc shape and like all polycarbonate it wants to warp and bend upwards at the edges, which causes it to run into the print head.... not good! So I am looking for another possible material with similar strength but better stability - I was thinking something with either a glass fill or carbon fiber fill would get closest to what we want. Any info/results with materials that we might consider would be much appreciated.
  9. Has anybody been trying any of the various carbon fiber materials available out there? We are currently using Polycarbonate, but my boss is wondering about carbon fiber reinforced filaments. Up till now we have been doing rapid prototyping of small electronics enclosures, but now they want to try prototyping large pump impellers (7-8 in. dia). We are going to try PC to start, but are also wondering about the carbon fiber. Any practical hands on stories/experience would be helpful to hear! 😁 Thanks, Johnny
  10. So our company prints exclusively in Poly Carbonate which is one of the hardest things to get to stick.... but I have had only 1 failed print! My routine is after every print I clean the glass with rubbing alcohol and one of those blue paper shop towels (they don't lint), making sure to turn the towel over and inside out several times to ensure I get the glass CLEAN! Then before printing while the glass is COLD apply a thin even layer over the entire build plate (or at least the area of your print plus some). Then just let the printer run and do it's thing.
  11. One not on the material handler - it is awesome! ...... and it is usually where you will have a glitch if you end up having one. The S5 we have has ran almost flawlessly for the 9 months or so that we have had it with the exception of one flooded print core that we had to have replaced. The material handler works really well most of the time, and when you are doing a 4 day print job it is really nice to know you aren't going to run out of filament 3 1/2 days in! But usually there are minor issues that pop up from time to time: It sometimes won't recognize the RF tag on the sp
  12. Just ran into the same issue with my PVA as well.... hadn't used it in quite a while and noticed it popping as it was extruding. One nice thing about the S5 being a totally enclosed printer is that Ultimaker just recommends heating your bedplate to 45-55 °C and putting the filament in a box and placing it in the print chamber for about 2 hrs. Nice convenient way to dry your filament!
  13. @SandervG we are using the Ulitimaker black poly carbonate. I did start with the base Ulitmaker profile, but found the temp and the flow rate were to high - I ended up with a lot of blobbing and stringing. I reduced the temp to 270 °C, reduced the skirt/brim flow to 68%, and reduced the flow for walls/top/bottom to 90%. I also set retraction to 10 mm and disabled Z-Hop - these were both to reduce stinging. The end results are parts that are coming out very clean with little to no post printing processing required.
  14. I noticed that on the front panel of my S5 I can pull up the serial number of the individual print cores..... but not the serial number of the actual printer. It would be nice to be able to pull up the printer serial number so you don't have to try and swing it out from the wall - which is a bit of a pain when you have the entire S5 Pro bundle. Just a wish list item for a future update 🤞
  15. We are printing in black PC for added UV resistance. Johnny
  • Create New...