JASON128

Heres a design for a cover for the S5 I gave the drawing to a local plastics fabricator and had it professionally cut rolled and glued for a few hundred dollars. added gas struts' and hinges from AliExpress. Overall looks and feels more solid & professional than the Air handler we have on another printer CoverDWGand FusionFIles.zip

Nylon shrinks... its a feature of that material. as such when it shrinks, you either- 1 get internal stresses, but don't see them on the print. - 2 get it lifting off the bed. or - 3 get the bed warping up. this is a symptom of the material, rather than the beds fault. - have you dried your nylon? - 70C for 12 hours. even if fresh out of the packet! -2 can you ensure the ambient temperature is as high as possible, with no cooling drafts or layer fan on? I have tried a flexible PEI plate on a s5, and eventually went back to glass for larger prints and nylon for this reason. another option- print the part vertically- highest face point up.

i would suggest just a simple temperature controller- and use a signal off the case fans in the bottom- as they only run when the machine is active.

Wow- good to know- was about to buy one- but that completely rules it out.!!! ill make my own then at a more reasonable cost. what an incredibly stupid implementation by the design team - speed control on the fan for cooling is obvious, and like you say- cheap to do. I can only guess its a way around patients in heated chambers?

EDM wire- funny that is exactly what I use. not too hard it will scratch or break, but strong enough for the job. I did not mention it, as most people would have no idea what you are talking about!

attached is something printed in yellow Esun PLA+ standard Draft mode in cura, no changes at all. filament was dried for 8 hours first. .04mm AA nozzle

There's plenty of us having success with esun PLA +. Not sure its fair to blame the printer. Either you have a bad batch, or a profile setting wrong. try using the generic engineering profile for PLA, and set the shell wall thickness to 1.5mm do a test print and go from there.

Dry your filament?

I agree- all that screen space, left blank to look pretty. Give us nozzle temps, any speed of flow offsets introduced, and Z height. all far more useful than a funny circular clock thing.

something rattling? something loose on the frame? might not be a moving part at all. i thought i had an issue, but it was the tools on the wall rattling from vibrations.

is this only with esun PLA? does it work fin with other brands?

yes the Z babystep function in marlin is one of the things I really MISS. i would always have a 5 row brim setup 1mm off the print. it gave time to adjust the offset to perfect every time, regardless of the material

I just redid the calibration process with the calibration card again, this time making it a little 'looser'. worked fine - have been using PEI sheet for months with no issues

as an update- it appear that the firmware works by using the movement rates relative to the stepper motor at the beginning as a reference. So if there is no flow detected at the beginning, it will still continue to run. I think this is waht was happenign in my case. A little official description on how things work, even just a few paragraphs would help a lot with fault finding- its a shame the information on how these parts work is so scarce.

please Ultimaker firmware guys, please give us this back! The nice thing about it is it stored its own offset data for each build plate... This means when using a 3rd party build plate- be it a spring steel, Gardoplate, PEI or whatever, it kept the data, and one could swap back to glass without any need to manually calibrate again. I have been using an spring steel PEI sheet from aliexpress for 2 months, and love it compared to glass.- why you guys don't offer something similar I don't understand. The fact that the firmware functionality was already there, and then it was removed, was just rubbing salt in the wound, after having to buy a 3rd party build-plate to begin with! I know Ultimaker are no longer planning a alternative build plate, but there ARE other options around, and at least give your customers the option to use them easily. you owe them that much surely- especially when you have already done the work.

Has anyone reverse engineered one of these yet? I'm assuming its just git a fan out and a thermosister in there? It wold nice to know the pin outs in the plug and make a enclosure that was inter grated to the software. i'm not prepared to drop the money they are asking for a hood and a fan though!

why not simply put a thermostat in line with the existing thermoresister on the print head.??? these things trigger at 70C, so will only trigger when the melted plastic hits them. the open or short circuit on the thermosister will stop error and stop the printer before it becomes a disaster. they are small enough to fit behind the print block. this would cost Ultimaker nothing to add to future print heads- its something 3d systems had years ago on their (awlful) cubepro printers to ensure the heatsink was never over temperature. Could even be easily added on by anyone with a soldering iron. im very tempted to do this myself, with the right little plugs could be a plug on add on to the printheads https://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/thermostatic-switches/2532723/ anyone got any thoughts???