Jasonjason

Take it apart- then find someone who has experience to solder it. That’s not the job to learn on. Someone close to you will probably do it and post it back if you ask nicely.

Yeah- this feels like a expensive and flimsy plastic lid at the moment.

Are you sure you are actually seeing a closed loop temperature control? I have just tested with a heat gun and brought the chamber temperature all the way up to 50c and the fan did not change its speed at all. Running newest stable firmware. I can’t understand why this is not implemented properly- it’s like the assume it’s always running in a climate controlled office. The reality could be 30c ambient temperature chances over a single print.

Once you use it you will never want to use regular pla again

You can reflash the cc core from a cc to aa if it gets really upset about the core label - it’s easy think there is a guide on the solex website on how to do. the printer does not really care, or really need to j ow what core you have, as all the extrusion settings come from cura

I have often used a an acupuncture needle to clear really cloggged nozzles, usually caused running woodfill filament. Heat nozzle up then push up through from nozzle whine in the printer.. Only a few dollars a packet on AliExpress. and yes I have also removed and replaced worn 0.4 nozzles with a 0.8 nozzle off AliExpress - not that hard to do, just make sure you have the proper scanner and hold the heat block, not the thin collar. was a easy way to get a .8 nozzle without buying one, and I already had a worn out printcore with 3000h on it. To use anyway.

Been there - put it back in, heat it up and push more filamant behind it. Easily done through the Boden tube with the feeder lever up. Use a different colour so you know when your done

… also the filament is flexible, why not flatten out the design and avoid all that support. Like others said- clean out the feeder- clean out the hot end- do cold pulls etc, try print slower. also I’ve had troubles with the filament sensor being sensitive to the angle which the filament leads in.

Completely agree- not sure what the logic in not having that function.

Google ultimaker er34 error. then start chasing problems. Clean hot end electrical contacts, print head plugs etc

This stuff like to be really well dried. Setting sound about right - I run 5 degrees hotter on bed and hot end. I use glue too

Is that pva wood glue you use? Sounds easier than a glue stick….

Yes turn off prime blob? Or something like that in cura. Use a brim instead if you want to run a bit of filament first.

Why they did not choose a longer bearing for this is a mystery, (like so many of the design decisions)

Yeah, just fix it. I used paper shims, no issue after 18 months

The answer to prove it’s the stepper calibration is simple. Increase the size of the square- say 250by 250mm. If the error increases proportionally, it’s a stepper calibration issue. if not start looking elsewhere, like where the start point for each later is... this can be a big effect, as the first bit feeds out more, and you ended up with wider extrusion.

Also this is likely the cause of your average print quality

That rod is stuffed, and should be replaced. replace the rod and the bearing - given the cost of the printer, you can justify maintaining it properly. if is is new, I would be asking your reseller to supply the parts under warranty. you can’t polish those scratches out, as it will change the dimension of the rod. Little linear bearings do not like rods that are not perfectly smooth

Big bed= high current, Hence it burning out. It probably pulls 10 amps when running. Might not have been tight enough, or worked loose from thermal cycling. It’s common to periodically shut down and relighten all connectors on industrial machinery plants you can use any connector that works at the local electrical store, or just solder on directly. Just make sure you have good contact, a large well soldered joint will be perfect

What’s all over your shafts, they look a furry mess!

Maybe an ultimaker developer can chime in here.... there is very little onfo on how this sensor works, but my understanding is it essentially calibrates itself at the start of the print, then if the feed rate decreases, it goes activates an error. So if the sensor is not moving at the beginning, it will not pick up an error later on. going into developer mode, you can monitor this sensor on the web interface, and this seems to be how it works. i had the same problem for a while. solution was a 100mm length of Biden tube out the bottom, held in place to the feeder with the standard Bowden clip. Ensures proper feeding into the sensor and feeder, and makes it easier to load overall. cheap fix, and a chance to replace your worn Bowden tube, and use the worn one for the feed in.

Share your print settings... Either it’s mechanical, like a bad bearing, lack of oil on the rods, Or its print settings set too fast, jerk settings too high.

Yes- I am the same- it’s a shame they added that feature to the firmware- would be nice to turn it off

Dont think it will automatically change over, regardless of nfc or not. have not heard of any other filaments having nfc tags. It’s not a big deal when you get used to it

Manually set the temperature hotter, and try another hot and cold pull. you can manually set the temp on the touch screen somewhere. someone may have put a hotter melt temp material in it. What other materials have you been working with? you can’t break it more. also try poking up the nozzle with a .3 mm drill or pin. have had to do this on wood filament before. aliexpress sell needles just for this job the right size.