Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral
  1. Guys, I've discovered that the UBL BL Touch sensor is really not making me very happy. I just can't print decently outside a central box of approx 150x150mm on that 660x660mm alu plate without seeing terrible width variations in the wall thickness. I made and printed a bracket on my Anycubic Mono X resin printer for a micrometer I suddenly realised I still had laying around somewhere. See images. I mounted the thing on the mounting points of the secondary printhead. Then I wrote a simple program to probe 10x10 measure points as close as possible to the UBL pat
  2. Recently I was 9hrs down a print (on my Modix Big60 V2) and coincidentally while I was looking at it suddenly made a loud grinding noise from the X-axis motor while it had already started a travel move (moved 2" already of an approx 6" travel move to the next object on the plate). It was pretty much up to speed, but still it stopped suddenly and then continued. It was mid-air, it wasn't touching anything. I was baffled?! The people from Modix say that missing a few steps so now and then can happen always as Open Loop motors basically aren't really the most reliable ones, unles
  3. I also don't know why people don't answer to questions.. 😕 A few things I found out recently when trying to print ASA parts on my Big60 V2: - After trying the PEI and then the BuildTak Flex System I can to the conclusion, that -for me- I get the best results using 3DLac directly on the alu print bed with the bed @ 80ºC (or more), 0% cooling fan for large parts and when the parts get significantly smaller in effective XY dimensions somewhere between 50-80% cooling fan (only when the diameter gets small, otherwise it'll warp like crazy. I'm highly surprised how crazy strong that
  4. Don't you have these 3 horizontal stripes to click on? It's under there..
  5. For those that didn't find the solution yet (I assume everybody solved this already, since I'm new here), using Cura 4.6.1 I noticed this comment at the start of each new layer: ;LAYER:0 (etc) So then I used the Post Processing Plugin [Search and Replace] and did this: Search [ ;LAYER: ] Replace [ M117 LAYER: ] Which will just show "LAYER:0", "LAYER:1", "LAYER:2", etc on the display 🙂 Edit 21-07 You can't leave the colon ":" in the line, that does not work, apparently. So it's: Search [ ;LAYER: ] Replace [ M1
  6. I'm so curious which super knowledgable person can answer this one! See image; I have the same Cura installed on my Macbook Pro and on my Mac Pro.. I may have started from 2 different default profiles (I don't remember), but as Category selection, I've selected "All" on both machines. I have compared ALL the settings and all settings and values are IDENTICAL. Also the 3 post processing plugins are identical and setup identical. I've also installed the Linear Advance plugin on both programs, with the same values. Printer settings, Extruder settings, m
  7. I don't think you've provided enough info to answer your question 😕 It would if you'd upload the 3D CAD file and an export of your project file of Cura as a *.3mf or *.ufp file. Then someone else could load the files and analyse what might be the problem.
  8. Hi all, Is it correct/normal that Coasting only works above the Initial layer when you give a value >0 for Outer Wall Wipe Distance?? I thought I was completely silly, by printing a single wall test ring, just to tune the Coasting feature, constantly increasing the value of it. And then I noticed the increasing gap in the Initial Layer, but above that nothing. I also noticed it in Cura after slicing, but I hoped that was just a graphical bug. That's a little bug, right? By the way, for anyone who also ends up with some irritating little piece of filament
  9. Thanks GregValiant! I'll try that. Someone also mentioned the extension "Modify G-code", or is that the same thing?
  10. Hi nitro2k01, Thanks, I only referred to the flex plate to indicate I just want to just peel off the product, but in the mean time i indeed want the hotend to stay warm, because peeling off doesn't take a long time with that flex plate. The bed stays 105-110ºC all the time to make that BuildTak FlexPlate stick good. I'm still experimenting, trying to see what temperature would provide good adhesion with ASA without the need to apply any extra glue (to try to work cleaner), as I'm not sure if applying glue would give me more misery than help concerning collection of
  11. Any idea how you can prevent Cura from adding a forced temperature shutdown right after the custom end code where I'm trying to set the nozzle temp to a holding temp of 190ºC while I swap the flex plate for the next test print or product..? Or can that only be removed manually..? I put this: M104 S190 ; set holding temp but it's just putting this right after that: M104 S0 ;End of Gcode 😕
  12. Nice for that beginning code, thanks! Do you also know how you can prevent Cura from placing M104 temperature instructions at the END of the gcode, after the custom part?? I'm trying prefer to have my holding temperature for ASA at 190ºC while I'm peeling of my products from the magnetic flex plate, so it doesn't cool off too much. But as you can see, after my code, it just forces the temperature to 0 anyhow. Any tips to prevent that from happening? Thanks!
  13. Wow, I tried this twice now, both with Burtoogle's version and the official 4.6.0 versio of Cura and when i try to apply the profile it tells me "Not supported" and when I go to the Profiles Manager and click on the imported profile, Cura instantly crashes. I've sent both crash reports, but this way isn't working for me on my Mac Pro 😞
  14. Yup! For SW you should also click Save As, choose type STL, then left bottom set the options to pretty fine resolution. Then it will look best in the slicer.
  15. Hi simaomanoel, When I see you mentioning that your object is 150x25x5 mm and that your SW infill is 0.39g, then I'm starting to guess that you made that infill 0.1mm in all directions...? With a very goo, well calibrated FDM printer you may manage to print layers of 0.1mm high, but to get the wall thickness to be so enormously thin, you'd have to use an air-brush head of 0.05mm (or 0.1mm max) as a nozzle, otherwise you could never create such thin walls. I'm curious: What nozzle size do you use? If you're trying to print such very thin walls with a noz
  • Create New...