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GregValiant

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  1. Time to learn some Gcode. The MarlinFW site has descriptions of the all the possible G and M commands. Not all are enabled in your firmware. Speed is "feedrate" in Gcode and is the "F" parameter in a G1 or G0 line and is in mm/minute. Open the Gcode file in any text editor (like "Notepad"). I suggest you go through the Gcode line-by-line. When you come across a command you don't know, go to the Marlin site and read the descriptions of both the command and it's parameters. EX: G28 is Auto-Home, G92 sets a location and appears often to re-set the Extruder location. Many o
  2. There have been enough of these now that I'm starting to think "Glitch". This is the second sphere that has caused it. The model is there as witnessed by the shadow but it's way above the build plate. At any rate maybe this will work... Right click on the build plate. Choose "Select all Models" Click on the "Move" button on top of the toolbar on the left (below the file open button). The "Z" should be zero. If it isn't then make it zero and hit tab or enter. The model should show up on the build plate. If you could post the STL files that are causing
  3. I'm sorry I can no longer help. I just deciphered your screen name and I'm a Goldwing guy. If I was inclined to help (which I'm most assuredly not), I'd say to check things like "initial layer line width %" or maybe "initial layer flow". Maybe it's something simple like you accidentally deleted the Minus sign. I searched through the settings for "initial" but nothing much came up that would cause elephant's foot. Sometimes when using a brim 1 stripe of plastic will stick to the bottom of the model and make it look like elephant's foot. Check initial layer bed temp a
  4. This is the representation in Cura when I sliced the model. This is the Gcode file opened in Cura. I assume Cura didn't know what to do with the G2 and G3 codes. The model.
  5. I sliced this part both with ArcWelder and without (guessing what this is gets a prize!). It was the only change between the two slices and the resultant Gcode files. I printed about 12mm of each file. Max Resolution 0.8 and Max Deviation .025 and the Arc settings were Max R 1,000,000 and Tolerance 1%. I'm in compatibility mode so no fancy views of the layers. I'll attach the STL file. I did not read through all the background material. Just dropped it into Cura, restarted, and sliced the part. The file size using ArcWelder is about 10% of the same file without ArcWelder. Th
  6. For me it was adjusting the flow at the beginning of a print to get a good first layer. Then I progressed to playing with the leveling wheels on the fly during the skirt or brim. Finally I discovered that I was much better off leveling with cooking oven "parchment paper". It's thin, nothing sticks to it, and I've gotten very consistent results with it. I guess sales receipt paper works well too, but unlike parchment paper filament will stick to it.
  7. There ya go. Did you end up with 1 or 2 layers?
  8. What you want is an infill pattern. No walls, no floor, no roof. Bring in a 25mm calibration cube. Use the Scale tool, but use the absolute numbers. Make it .4 thick and set it on the build plate. X and Y can be whatever you want. Layer height .2 Walls 0 Top and bottom 0 a bunch of other 0's Infill = lines Infill line distance = .8 Infill line direction = [0,90] Connect Infill Lines = False Infill Overlap % = 0 I think I would put a pause in between layers to insure that the first layer is hardened before running the nozzle back
  9. "I guess I should just quit obsessing with the line width" That's what I advise. The E numbers you see in a Gcode file are "mm of filament" (some printers use mm^3). When you calibrate the E steps and tell the printer to extrude 30mm of filament and pretty near exactly 30mm goes through the extruder gear, that's it...you are done. Move on. As @gr5 says, you need to measure back further. I always calibrate the E steps when I change nozzles because I find it easier that way. You could pull the bowden tube out of one end and measure there or just measure before the extruder moto
  10. Timing is everything. I've just finished printing 24 round drink coasters for my son's fishing team. It would have been a decent test of the plugin. I'll give it a trial in a couple of days.
  11. On the one side there is a switch, and on the other side there is something acting as the trip dog. It is often easier to change the trip dog. Here is the fix for my Ender. The gray clip is easily removeable so I can take the glass off and go back to the magnetic pad. The narrow finger sticking out on the bottom of the clip is the piece that hits the switch. The thickness is the difference between the glass, and the magnetic pad. With the clip in place - the switch is tripped about 3mm short of where the actual frame piece used to trip the switch. Cura doesn't know or car
  12. I used "QIDI Print" (Cura 4.3.0) to generate three gcode files. (I used two 25mm calibration cubes as models) This is from a file with the "R" extruder disabled: T1 G92 E0 G92 E0 G1 F1800 E-3 This is from a file with the "L" extruder disabled: T0 G92 E0 G92 E0 G1 F1800 E-3 And this is from a file that uses both extruders: G92 E0 G92 E0 G1 F1800 E-3 In all three cases, no mention is made in the G92 or G1 lines of which extruder should be reset to 0 and then retract 3mm. The firmware knows which extruder to se
  13. "What I am looking for is a setting that would either let me change the overall number of walls or let me adjust the printing order to outside in for all structures per layer, ie: infill -> inner wall -> top skin -> outer wall." Extra Infill Wall Count? Infill before Walls? Outer Wall before Inner Walls? A possible alternative is to create different Gcode files each with your different settings, and then to manually splice the Gcode files at the layers that you want the changes to take effect. X and Y usually work out. The Z and the E locations must be car
  14. The active tool is the last one that was called out in a "T" command. A "T" command is a modal command. It stays in effect unless another "T" command changes it.
  15. From the MarlinFW.org site for M104... [T<Hot End Index] Hotend index. If omitted, the currently active hotend will be used. Examples Set target temperature for the active hotend M104 S185 As Tinkergnome mentioned in the other post, you may have a firmware problem. M104 isn't "global" and without any "T" parameters is supposed to set the temperature on the "Currently Active" hot end only. For any other hot end to be effected there must be an explicit parameter. T0 ;change to extruder 0 M
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