GregValiant

The male form would be "Slashee_the_Bull".

It is an easy thing to do in post-process so that's where it is. As you saw - there are many post processors capable of a variety of effects on the gcode. If they were all implemented directly in Cura then what is already a cluttered interface of over 600 settings would be completely unwieldly.

Go to "Extensions / Post Processing / Modify Gcode" and then "Add a Script".

You can use the "Change at Z" post processor. The "Change Speed" option will insert M220 lines and all speeds will be affected (print, travel, retraction, prime). The setting is for a percentage so if you were to change the speed to 75% at say layer 700 and then use another "Change at Z" to make it 50% at layer 1200 you could progressively slow down. A second option is to change just the "print" speed. If you use that then the travel speeds would be left alone, but you don't have any in vase mode. Another post processor "Limit XY Accel and Jerk" will be available in Cura 5.7 but it's for bed slinger style printers.

Then you really need to go over the Reddit and see what help the Ender 5 (or 3) users group can help with.

On that model there was a pause coming up. If I would have had to manually pause a layer early it wouldn't have hurt anything but it made it to the pause. I was kind of proud of my guestimating ability there.

There are a few bug reports about this over on GitHub. I haven't seen an exact cause of the problem. It seems to be an interaction between a couple of different settings ("Flow Equalization Ratio" and "Initial Layer Print Speed" seem to be a couple of them "Print thin walls" might also be involved). I do have a post-processor that will fix the over-speeds in the gcode. If you think you need it or want to try it, let me know and I'll post it here.

No. Cura works by linetype. Inner-Walls will be completed before Outer-Walls (there is a setting to change that to Outer first). Cura is going to print that grid as if it was made of a bunch of boxes. There are a lot of "walls" in that model. Your Wall Speed of 25mm/sec is a bottleneck. If you print everything at 50 you can get the print time down to about 41 minutes.

You need two models. Leave a cavity in your model where you want the "filter" to be. Design a cylinder to exactly fit in the cavity. This will be the filter element. Bring both models into Cura and move the "filter element" model so it is exactly in position. With the Filter Element active, in the "Per Model" settings choose Wall Count = 0, Top Layers = 0, Bottom layers = 0, Infill Pattern = gyroid, Infill Density = 15% (or whatever you like).

Because heads are rarely "round", it isn't really the diameter. I suppose hat size would be an "equivalent diameter".

Hat size in English units is "circumference / PI()". Metric may be the same sort of thing. Take a piece of common 1/8" solder. Wrap it around the persons head at the level that the hat will sit. Tape the ends so they don't move and be gentle with the "form" so it doesn't change shape. Lay it gently on the floor with a ruler next to it. Take a photograph. Load the photograph into the CAD software of your choice. Scale the photo until the ruler in the photo is the correct length. Some heads are round, some are oval, and some are apple shaped. This one is mine. (If anyone makes a comment about the fact that it's empty I WILL FIND OUT!) When I have this scaled so that a spline on the shape is 23.18" in length then I know this will fit my 7 3/8 head. When you get done, you can make a helmet. This is my personal helmet. 160 LED's 3 LED PCB's, a PCB for the siren and a PCB for the bell, and a PCB for the MP3 Player, and 2 speakers. It is powered by 6 AAA batteries. It weighs about 2lbs. It contains no printed parts. I figure it's about a $5000 hat. Yes, that is a molotov cocktail on the shield. "Richards Wild Irish Rose" bottles made the best. And if that isn't enough, here is the one I built for my Scottish brother-in-law. He fishes, he golfs, he hunts. He requested that it play bagpipes. I got to pick the song.

@gr5 I don't think the OP has to go through that for this project. Just set "Support Horizontal Expansion" to 0.0 and turn off "Use Towers".

Welcome Nitin. You did not mention what printer you have. Many printers have the "origin" at the left front corner. Some printers (mostly delta printers but one or two others) have the "origin" at the mid-point of the bed. The setting is "Origin at Center" and you can find it in "Manage Printers" and then "Machine Settings". While you are in the Machine Settings make sure that the build plate size is correct. The size determines where the mid-point is and so can effect the location of a print on the bed.

This slice was with "Spiralize Outer Contour" enabled. "Travel Moves" is turned on. I recognize the design style and intent. This model has been designed to print in spiralize mode. The internal ribs are exactly the correct width to provide an up-and-back movement so the nozzle never has to stop. Another indicator is that the bottom starts out narrow, then widens but isn't a sharp step, it has a chamfer. That allows it to print in spiralize (spiralize doesn't do roofs) and will not require support. The support for that notch on the bottom is a separate structure. That means Cura must travel to it and so there can't be true spiralize until the two islands join at about layer 15. Once it gets above that the nozzle just keeps moving and extruding so travel moves aren't required. EDIT: I would strongly suggest that you use a skirt or brim rather than a raft. Rafts generally are harder to remove than a brim, and the print can be damaged during removal. I do have a handy-dandy post processor that you could use to print the top of the raft with PETG (if you have some laying around) which PLA doesn't stick to very well. The raft would come right off. If you would like to try it out I'll post it.

Airplane parts (and some boat parts) are different and often require workarounds. Use the "File | Save Project" command and post the 3mf file here. Someone will take a look. It looks like you have "Avoid models when traveling" enabled. That might be causing a conflict/override of the combing setting. Combing might say "travel on the walls" while "Avoid..." is saying "get off the part".

I'll relate this as it is semi-interesting and there is some slight chance that it might have something to do with this. I bought an upgrade mainboard for my printer. Installation was fine, I calibrated the E-steps and ran a PID calibration and subsequent prints were fine. Three weeks later, my prints developed a problem in that they would start out OK but after 30 to 40 minutes of printing I would get under-extrusion and I would have to abort the print. (I became really good at tearing down and cleaning the hot end even though it never fixed the problem.) Immediately after one such aborted print (before the machine had cooled down) I tried to re-calibrate the E-steps and found that instead of 97steps/mm it was 320steps/mm. The next morning I checked again with the machine cooled down and it was back to 97steps/mm. After 30 minutes of printing - 270steps/mm. I put the old mainboard back in and everything was perfect. My conclusion was that the E-driver chip had failed. (After much back-and-forth Creality did replace the mainboard.) A second odd thing that can happen is that if the mainboard fan doesn't come on, the mainboard gets hot, and wonkiness develops somewhere in the chip set. It is something that is likely to be easy to check.

The thickness of the first layer is determined by a couple of different things. The "bed leveling" (which is a misnomer as it should be called "setting the initial Z gap"), by the extruder calibration (E-steps). A third consideration is the tendency of the material to stick to the bed. If you are under-extruding the first layer then you don't get enough squish and the material wants to curl and it ends up on the outside of the nozzle. Assuming that you have an ABL system, they work well but the "Z-offset" needs to be just right. If your "Initial Layer Height" is 0.2, but when the printer moves to 0.2 the bed is actually 0.3 below the nozzle, then you are effectively under-extruding and you don't get any squish. In general, if you change nozzles they won't be exactly the same length and consequently the Z-offset would need adjustment. I have some nozzles that vary by up to .4mm in length (but I don't have ABL so I level for every print). Some initial wear in the extruder gear can cause the extruder to go out of calibration. If it isn't pushing enough material then you will get less squish. Double checking your E-step calibration can't hurt. Even with the number of miles on my Ender I still calibrate it once a month. Since this is an initial layer problem you can do a quick test by slicing a calibration cube and setting the "Initial Layer Flow" to 110 or 115% and see if it makes a difference. (You can abort the print after the first layer.) If the flow change doesn't make a difference then the problem is probably not the E-steps or leveling/Z-offset. Give the build surface a good cleaning with a dish detergent, dry it, put it back on the machine and then wipe it down with 90% isopropyl alcohol.

As the self-proclaimed "King of Workarounds" I have the utmost respect for the fabulous work of @jeroent and I vote that the "Solution" tag stays. Of course if 5.7 is released tomorrow, it will be a very short term in the limelight but well deserved nonetheless. Prior to his discovery we had random randomness. Now there is an excellent chance at organized randomness. Ya gotta love progress.

When printing threads in a horizontal hole, only the apex of each thread needs support. If that tiny spot falls below the "Minimum Support Area" and the "Minimum Support Interface Area" then no support will be generated. Having the thread apex come to a point is not good. If there was a small flat on the end then engagement with the male is a lot easier. It needs some clearance at the thread root. A flat might allow support to build with the minimum at a higher number. I like inserts like THESE. I shove them in with an electronics soldering iron. They are better when installed from the backside, but that isn't always possible.

Wow. 53 files involved. It addresses feature request #4835 which dates to Nov 19, 2018. @Cuq - Does this qualify as "The development dynamic is more active on other slicers"?

I must have looked at arranging the parts a hundred times and this never occurred to me. It works! I wish I could award you with something more than an emoji, but it will have to do. But I'll throw in a couple more cuz, ya know, they're cheap. 🏄‍♂️🍺🌴💐🎺🤓

Well I'm a LOT younger (73) so maybe I'm mis-understanding. When you first install a printer, you can't make any changes to the "Machine Settings" even though the dialog comes up. I'm not sure why that is. After you dismiss the dialogs then yes, you can go back through Manage Printers and make any changes. Arc Welder is now included in Cura by default. The setting is under "Special Modes" so you need to change to the "Custom" settings to access it.

I agree with you. I should have refined my comment that the "Volume of noise" is similar. Both the Scarf Seam idea and the Arc Support idea have enthusiastic supporters.

The noise being generated by this reminds me of the "Arc Overhang Support" feature request. I wasn't terribly impressed with that one as it required extremely slow extrusion and gravity took it's toll.

There is a feature request (#17713) and there has been much discussion. From reading here and there my impression is that it appears to work well when the Z-seam is on a curve and not at all when the Z-seam is on a corner. Maybe @Cuq can comment?