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Porkpie last won the day on June 28 2020

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  1. Porkpie


    prüf doch mal, ob dir ein elektriker für deinen carport einen separaten sicherungsautomaten setzen kann. denn, ernsthaft, wie genau kannst du schon vorhersagen, für wie lange dir dein nachbar den strom abdrehen wird / bereits abgedreht hat?
  2. on my github, i've updated Configuration.h Configuration_adv.h pins_BTT_SKR_common.h for the latest changes. this is the configuration that my franken-UM2+ is now running on. i'm still sporadically getting a hard reset during print. not sure about the root cause of the issue, though. will exclude temperatures for now, as these are pretty constant at 60°C on the drivers and some 45°C on the processor. everything else, including the heatbed- and hotend-MOSFETs is running cooler than that ( measured 1 hour into a print). seems that the issue is gone when i do a hard r
  3. that board seems to use MAXIM 31865 ADCs for RTD to digital conversion. this is not compatible with the BTT SKR 1.4 TURBO analog temperature inputs and requires an SPI connection to the host: MAX31865 datasheet
  4. this is the final setup of the SKR V1.4 Turbo in my UM2+ chassis. without white cover and extra fan being off, the TMC5160 drivers easily reached 60°C @ 28°C ambient temperature, causing a hard reset of the SKR approx. 90 min into the prints on three different occasions. hence, i opted for forced cooling of the SKR, using a 12 VDC fan (60x60x10), connected to the 5VDC output of the DCDC module. also tried a 12VDC impeller from a radeon graphics card, connected to 5VDC. air flow was massive, but torque noise was way too loud. a note of caution: the heatsinks that B
  5. nitrotech, you may want to wait for an upgrade of the mounting base, which will also have a cover plate. i'll be posting the upgrade here during the weekend. as for the diodes, the SSB44-E3 is a good fit in all places (heater as well as fan PWM). however you can basically use whatever you have on the shelf that has a minimum 4A / 40V rating, and is either a schottky or a "fast switching" diode with datasheet specs of trr < 200 ns. i did the fan PWM add-on on a piece of perfboard, as there is no point in doing a pcb for just a MOSFET and a diode. the k
  6. here you go. you need the base-plate and one set of 4 mounting tabs. two of those don't have holes, they are meant to be glued in place on the base-plate. for the two tabs with holes, you need two M3 brass inserts in the base plate and two M3 x 6 screws. (the rectangular cut-out was a q&d hack to make room for one of the Z-axis rods. the below stl has the corrected version with cut-out.) SKR14_Mounting_base.stl SKR14_Mounting_Tab_4pcs.stl
  7. thanks anthrix for your findings! to take things a little bit further, i did some work lately on this particular topic, and these are my findings so far: 1. have some freewheeling diodes added to the PWM outputs of the SKR V1.4 to avoid overvoltage damage to the output MOSFETs: bigtreetech-skr-v1-4-turbo-freewheeling-diodes 2. also, do _not_ use smoothing capactors on PWM outputs. this is simply bad practice that puts a lot of extra stress on the MOSFETs. instead, use proper PWM settings in your MARLIN configuration. 3. TMC5160 drivers should have stealthchop enabled, but
  8. https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/30786-ultimaker-with-skr-14/
  9. the AD597 is a thermocouple conditioner, so, yeah, that's probably a thermocouple. find an online table somewhere that gives you type K voltages wrt temperature. measure the voltage at the wires when the sensor is at room temprature and note it down. note: these voltages are extremely small. your voltmeter has to be good at mV ranges. then, put the sensor in boiling water (i.e., 100°C exactly) and do another reading. do your measurements align with the values given in the table?
  10. the surface smoothness (or lack thereof) in the STL file can be clearly seen after slicing in CURA's preview when zooming in on the details from different angles. in case anybody is interested: these settings give very smooth STL results in VC:
  11. die 6er x/y laufstangen des hotends kratzen möglicherweise mit ihren enden an den seitenwänden des druckergehäuses. einfach aus den gleitern ausklipsen, seitlichen abstand zu den gehäusewänden beidseitig auf ein paar mm per augenmaß einstellen und wieder fest einklipsen.
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