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ReallyBadDancer

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  1. The idea of the brim blocking the bed heat makes sense to me, although I do dislike removing it at the end- I hadn't tried printing it with a large offset from the print before though. I'll see if that makes a difference. I did re-print a couple of the components from before with a large brim this time, and noticed that the warping had completely gone away. I also printed at 195C at 20 mm/s. This application is really warp-sensitive, so I don't mind the slow print speed. Here is the resultant print from the slow print speeds, low temperature, new profile. I still saw a slight arti
  2. Thanks all, I got a decent small print out of the printer yesterday printing at 30mm / sec and with jerk / acceleration and temperature turned way down. Looking at the belts on the motors, they are definitely slightly worn. I got new replacement belts yesterday, so this weekend I am going to replace all of the belts and post photos of the old belts. I suspect that somehow at some point during the print the one of the y-belts is slipping, but I'll just replace them all. I deleted all of my old profiles in Cura and rebuilt them, and the temperature issue seems to have go
  3. Ok, so I got the magnalube today, then cleaned and applied it to the lead screw. The z-ribbing is mostly gone, but the z-offset issue is back again. (sigh) I don't think it makes sense to further tighten the set screws on the pulleys, so maybe it's something else? Also, there is some pretty gnarly warping happening. I noticed that in spite of having set the print material to PLA on the printer AND in Cura, the print temperature is sometimes going to 230 instead of 210 °C. No idea why that might be and didn't check this time, but it might be the cause of the warping.
  4. Belt replacement: I guess both these https://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-2-spare-parts/products/sliding-block-half-um2-x8 and these? https://fbrc8.com/collections/ultimaker-2-spare-parts/products/timing-belt-200-x2 I have never greased the Z lead screw before (I lost the magnalube stuff, but I ordered more). Can you clean off the old magnalube with WD-40, iso alcohol and a bristle brush?
  5. Thanks @IRobertI, here is a picture of the same print from before the layer offset issue on the left (you can see the beginnings of it manifesting) and then on the right, after with z-ribbing. The poor overhang quality on both prints seemed to be due to bed adhesion problems that I managed to solve from reading some forum posts here, and some temperature tuning. The Ultimaker is such an easy to use printer that I really didn't need to read much online before now.
  6. Hey all, I am experiencing some Z-ribbing after having corrected a layer-offset problem earlier this week on my Ultimaker 2+. The set screws on the belt pulleys had come slightly loose, resulting in prints that look like this. After tightening the set screws on all of the pulleys, this problem largely went away, although the printer now has a z-axis ribbing issue that wasn't there before. Now the surface of my prints has slight (<1mm), yet undesirable, horizontal ribs in both axes. So prior to any of these issues (for the past 2 months or so), I n
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