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classified

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  1. Thanks. The XLoader software worked for the motherboard, but I still get get the firmware on my Artillery printer. I keep getting a communications error. Any ideas of what could be causing this? Thanks.
  2. Check your belts and make sure they're tight. Check to ensure there's no slack on your X and Y belts.
  3. Hello, I'm trying to upload new firmware (Through Cura) to two of my printers (Any Cubic X and Artillery Sidewinder X1) but for The Any Cubic X my computer won't recognize the USB device and for the Artillery I get: Firmware update failed due to a communication error. All my drivers are up to date and the com port shows up on Device Manager. I also tried different cables and different USB ports on my computer but nothing seems to work. I've update the firmware on these printers before through Cura, but all of a sudden I can't. I need the firmwares on the printers because I'm replacing the fried Motherboard on my Any Cubic X and it needs the firmware in order to work. My Artillery resets mid-print and I can't resume the part (It gives me a resume error) so I'm hoping if I update the firmware it will solve the problem. Can anyone help me solve this frustrating issue? Thanks in advance.
  4. Hello, The grub screw isn't too tight and the wires are already taped like the above image. Yet, I am still having issues. Are there any other possible causes that may cause the hotend thermistor to blow/fail? Thanks.
  5. Hello, I've been printing with my Anycubic Mega X printer for a while now, but I keep having this reacquiring issue. The hotend thermistor keeps failing. I've contacted the company on several occasions and they sent me replacement hotends, which I replaced, and they worked fine for about a month or so before that thermistor began to fail. I've been through a lot of hotends and individual (100k) thermistors, and they only seem to last for about a month or so. This time, I purchased a brand new hotend and installed it on the printer and I only managed to print 1 full part before the thermistor blew. I had previously ordered some thermistors, but they still haven't shipped in yet (So I'm waiting for those, in hopes that they will work). My question is, why do my hotend thermistors keep blowing/failing? Can anyone help me solve this issue? Thanks in advance.
  6. Hello, Thank you guys for your help. It is much appreciated. It turns out the problem was not the hotend. It was a misaligned idler bearing in the extruder. I was printing the test cube again when it stopped extruding. So, I decided to disassemble the extruder gearbox to see if that was the problem. It turns out it was. The Idler bearing (that is attached to the trigger, which allows me to manually feed the filament (bypass the gears) and keeps tension on the PLA so the gear grips it) was shifted, causing the plastic part of the trigger to rub against the PLA creating a massive amount of friction and prevented the PLA from moving any further. I completely took apart the gear box and moved the bronze gear on the stepper motor a little further up so the trigger and bearing would sit flush with the bigger extruder gear. I reassembled the gear box and printed the test cube once again. It was a success! My Anycubic Mega X printer works again! The gear circled in green was the idler bearing that was misaligned due to the trigger/handle it was attached to being misaligned.
  7. I did this and it didn't solve my problem. It still stops extruding mid-print. Also my hotend is all metal. It's a V5 J-Head hotend.
  8. Ya. It looked good at first, but upon further inspection I found a little disturbance inside. I still have to take it out and make sure there's nothing else. But this is what I found so far.
  9. It's not a clogged nozzle as I had just changed the nozzle before printing those cubes, so we can rule that out. Also, I had replaced the whole hotend (Bowden tube and everything) three times already. The first time was because of a thermistor error and I didn't have any extra thermistors at the time so I grabbed my spare hotend and attached it to my printer. Everything worked fine for a while, until this problem occurred. Thinking it was a thermistor issue again (It wasn't), I then replaced that hotend with a brand new one (I had ordered some thermistors but they hadn't arrived yet, which is why I ended up changing out the whole hotend). To check, I disassembled that old hotend to check for clogs (I found none. I then kept that hotened for spare parts). Finally, my new (current) hotend arrived and I decided to replace it with the other hotend (To see if this would fix it and so I could disassemble that hotend and check for clogs or a worn Bowden tube. Surprisingly, There were no clogs, but the Bowden tube was a bit dirty). So I installed my new (current) hotend (which already had a new Bowden tube installed on it) and it still didn't solve the problem. Then I decided to look at the extruder gears. They are all clear (I cleaned them to ensure no PLA dust was in between the teeth) and they grip the PLA like they're supposed to do. When it stops extruding I see the big extruder gear turning, but I don't feel the PLA being pushed up/further. I don't hear any clicking noises and when I take out the filament to examine it, I find no indications of grinding. This is why I am stumped. I will examine my current hotend to make sure there are no clogs internally and I will let you know what I find. Also, this is when I heat the hotend and only run the extruder motor. As you can see I get good extrusion.
  10. Nope. When I did an extrusion test by just heating up the nozzle and running the extruder, the filament extruded beautifully. It flowed evenly, quick, and it was thick (the size of the nozzle of course .04 mm) Even when I print a test cube and it extrudes at the beginning, it extrudes well. This was a cube I printed. As you can see it began fine, then it stopped extruding (hence why it's not completed and the top is all messed up) This is the same cube, but this time when I printed it, it stopped extruding near the end (at around 90% completion). This is the exact same cube as printed before, but I printed it again and it stopped extruding at around 63% this time. Then I manually pushed the filament and it began extruding again. After I manually pushed the filament to get it started again, I let it run for a few seconds.
  11. I also noticed that this in the bite marks on the filament. It looks like it was turning as it was being fed in.
  12. I pulled out the Bowden tube and it is clean. No dirt, PLA, or black substances on it, and it's not chewed up. Although, a small part of the end of the tube is a little bit sticky to the touch.
  13. Hello, The extruder motor doesn't get hot and it barley gets warm (when it extrudes its cool, and when it stops extruding mid-print its slightly warm, +2 degrees if I had to guess. Not much change in the temp basically), and no I have not printed with abrasive materials (I only print in PLA).
  14. Hello, I am having some issues with the Anycubic Mega X. The problem is that it stops extruding mid-print. I have tried different filaments, increased the temperature, played around with the printing speeds, replaced the nozzle, replaced the Bowden tube, replaced the thermistor, disassembled and reassembled the hotend to make sure there weren't any clogs (There were no clogs), replaced the hotend with a brand new one, checked the fans (they work properly), checked the extruder, disassembled and reassembled the extruder (I cleaned the gears and made sure it grabbed the filament properly), updated the firmware, re-formatted the SD card, re-sliced the part, and tried printing different parts. Nothing seemed to solve this problem. It still stops extruding mid-print. The printer worked fine before and all of a sudden it decided to stop extruding mid print. For example, I printed a test cube (calibration cube) and it printed fine until it reached about 28% completion, then it stopped extruding. This happens with any part I print the only difference is they will stop extruding at different percent completions (Usually above 50% completion they will begin to screw up, but it's happened at around 27%, 30%, 40%, etc.). What caused this and how do I fix it? Thanks in advance.
  15. Hello, I recently bought about 10kg of 1.75mm pla from 3D printing Canada. The problem is that it has inconsistent filament diameter. I measured the PLA with my caliper and got readings as high as 1.80mm. This is a problem because I have a 2 Bowden tube printers and one direct drive printer. The Pla works fine on the direct drive printer because there's no tube for the pla to get stuck in, but on the Bowden tube printers, there's a lot of friction and it prevents proper extrusion. Is there a way to fix this, so I can get proper extrusion on the Bowden printers? Would putting in 2.85mm for the filament size in cura help or is there something else I can do to achieve proper extrusion? Thanks in advance. P.S: I know it's the filament causing this because I disassembled and reassembled the whole hotend (and there were no clogs), I replace the Bowden tube, nozzle and thermistor, I updated the firmware, and I even formatted the Sd card. I found a roll of strong hero PLA which I used before and had no issues with, and I printed with that and it extrudes without problems. As I said before I have 10 rolls of the filament that is giving me problems on my Bowden tube printers and I would like to use it on my Bowden tube printers, not just the direct drive one. Is there a way to to this? Also, I just checked my printer, and it stopped extruding mid print (This is with the strong hero PLA). How do I fix this and why does this happen?
  16. I decided to print some Parts for my Terminator robot as well, and I experienced the same problem. Random parts would under extrude while others wouldn't. For example I printed the face plate many times and it printed fine, but when I printed the head it was under extruded. I increased the infill (40% or higher) on the rest of the parts and tried again. They came out somewhat fine (tolerable and not under extruded as much). This seems like a good solution, but the problem is it wastes plastic and time, especially since i'm printing really big parts, and increasing the infill takes longer to print. I want to keep the infill at 10% and have it print properly. I've had a similar problem which I posted a while ago (Link to previous post) but all the parts were under extruded not just some. I solved that problem by replacing the nozzles, and bowden tubes. Then the same problem occurred again, but nothing was clogged. I had changed the nozzles and that didn't seem to work (keeping in mind that I had already changed the Bowden Tubes not too long ago). I just gave up and a few days later it started printing normally again (I didn't touch any setting or change any parts. It just magically started working again, for some unknown reason). All was fine until now, when the problem occurred again. This problem is driving me nuts and I don't want to have to wait a few days in order for it to magically work again. I want to know why my printer does this and how to fix this issue. Thanks in advance.
  17. Hello, I have included the .3mf files and some pictures. The solid part is the Left side and the under-extruded part is the right side. (The right side part was very weak and the rest of it ripped off as I was taking it off the printer bed. That is why it is shorter that the left part). I don't quite under stand what you mean by: I printed the whole left part, and when it was done I turned off my printer, and the next day I printed the right part. When the right part didn't print properly I waited for it to finish (just to see) and then turned off the printer and printed the left part again (to see if it would print properly) the next day. L2-Chest.3mf R2-Chest.3mf
  18. Hello, I am printing an iron-man suit with files that I got from Thingiverse. The files provided for the Iron-Man suit are all for the left side, not the right. So when I want to print a right sided part, I take the left sided part and mirror it in Cura. The problem is that the left sided parts will print perfectly fine, but when I go to print the right sided part (the mirrored par) it will print severely under-extruded. I know its a slicing error because I printed the left sided part first (which printed fine) then I printed the right sided part (that did not print fine) and then I printed another left sided part immediately after (which printed fine). I even tired mirroring the part and exporting it to an stl in Sketchup and Meshmixer, but I had no luck. The mirrored part keeps screwing up. How do I fix this extremely frustrating problem. Thanks in advance. (I have included the stl's and G-code files below. R2-Chest(new) was mirrored and sliced in Cura, R2 Chest (Sketchup) was mirrored in Sketchup and sliced in Cura, R2 Chest (MeshMixer) was mirrored in MeshMixer and sliced in Cura). chest_half_L_pt02.stl Chest Half Right-2 (Mirrored in Cura).stl (9h)R2 Chest (MeshMixer).gcode (9h)R2 Chest (Sketchup).gcode (9h)R2-Chest(new).gcode
  19. Hello, I am facing an under-extrusion issue and I don't know how to solve it. I've re-leveled the bed, Printed with a higher temp and increasing the flow rate, I even changed the nozzle and bowden tube, and tried different PLA and nothing seems to work. The only thing that works is if I print my part with a high infill of 50% or higher it will turn out perfect. The problem is I want to print big parts and use less material, and I will be happy with printing them at a 10% infill (That's what I've been doing before this problem started), but if I print under a 50% infill the part will not turn out well and won't be solid. How do I fix this? Thanks in advance.
  20. I have been running them a lot lately but I had already changed the whole hotend a few days before. I changed it again today and its staring to work fine again. Thanks for your help.
  21. I also did a test print and because it was a bigger part the infill turned out fine (solid) but the top and bottom layer have lots of little gaps and the perimeter layers didn’t quite bond together. As show in the picture below.
  22. Hello, To answer: “That top image looks under-extruded and the layers don't look bonded together. Is that what you mean by "not solid"(?) “ Yes that is what I mean by not solid. It isn’t properly bonded and the infill becomes very “stringy”. I don’t think it’s the G-code because I had printed the same object the day before and it printed fine (it was nice and solid and properly boned) but when I went to print the exact same part today it didn’t work.
  23. Hello, I've been 3D printing for a while now and I ran into my fair share of problems. I've managed to solve most of them but there is one problem which I can't seem to solve. I'm finishing up printing some parts for my full sized humanoid robot and most of the parts print solid except for the parts I print on my Diggro Alpha 3 and Geeetech A10 3D printer. Now keep in mind that I have 2 Diggro Alpha 3 printers and 1 Geeetech A10 and only one of my Diggro Alpha 3 Printers will print a solid part. My other Diggro Printer and Geetech A10 printer used to print good solid parts until one day I clicked print on a part and it was no longer printing properly. I have included pictures below of my non-solid part. I had to spray it with liquid rubber just to keep it intact and give it some strength. I have tried different filament and infill types, higher temperature, lower speed, re-leveling the bed, I even increased the line width and infill percentage, but I am having no luck. Can someone please help me solve this very frustrating problem. Thanks in advance.
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