TestingIsKey

Hello all! I hope you are all doing well! Recently, ive woken up to prints that have a surface that almost looks dented. After hours of searching on the internet, I came up empty handed. Does anyone know what is happening? Printer: Ender 3 Print speed: 25mm/s for,walls Infill: 10% Shell width: 0.8mm (220c for nozzle and 60c,for bed). Feel free to ask for any other settings! Thank you in advance!

No problem! Happy to help!

Unfortunatly, I do not have any other PLA filament color other than white. The brand of filament is Geeetech. Ill give an update once I do have red or black PLA. （1-2 months) I am still open to suggestions! Thank you for the help! Edit: turns out the problem was me using adaptive layers in cura. Once disabled, prints came out looking perfect!

The first picture is a fan guard and the second one is the body of the falcon heavy rocket. I did not print them in vase mode. I have been getting feedback from others that it is an issue regarding the CURA slicer itself and/or the wheels on the hot end being worn down. What are your thoughts on the causes?

Hello everyone! I hope you are doing well! I have noticed an issue that has been prevalent in many of my prints for a long time. They appear to look like missing layer lines or shifted layers. Here are a couple of pictures:Notice the inconsistencies going horizontally along with 4 faint lines going across the print. Below is a more prominent example: Notice the random lines going across the print. I also want to clarify that I did check the belt tension and tightened it furthur, but it continues to happen. I dont have any idea as to why this is happening, so please feel free to request my slicer settings and if you have any questions, I will be sure to answer them as soon as I can! Here is a bit of a overview: Filament: PLA Bed and Nozzle temp: 60C and 210C Print speed for outer and inner walls: 15m/s Layer height that I normally use: 0.15 or 0.2mm Printer: Creality Ender 3 Thanks and regards!

Hello naiaborio! The bad infill and printing in the air may be caused by your print speeds for infill and outer/inner wall. Try reducing the infill speed to 30-50mm/s and outer/inner wall speeds to 15-30mm/s. When you are describing that the printer starts printing in the air, is it due to a clog or filament in the nozzles way, or does the print slide off the bed? If it is one of those or both, try enabling retraction. then click “retract at layer change”. I will also recommend to enable “Z hop when retracted” and “Z hop only over printed parts”. Try setting z hop height to 0.4mm. If possible, can you let me know your current print speeds, material, layer height, and your printer model? Hope this helps, (sorry about the late response) Good luck!

Hello Bruce19! I currently own a Ender 3 with its stock buildtak plate. It has Already gone through a lot of bed-leveling and bed scraping, however I use 50-80% isopropyl alcohol to clean the bed so adheision issues do not pop up anymore. Glass: A glass build plate is quite commonly found on 3d printers, but they are known to have poor bed adheision at times. Dont be surprised if the print gets knocked out or slides off the bed. Just use a gluestick or hairspray. In addition, glass provides the most level bed is comparison to other products (keep that in mind!) How I clean my bed: I like to rub a brass brush across my build plate until bits of plastic are visible. Then I take the isopropyl alchohol and put it on a old sock or rag and simply spread it across the bed. Soon after, I dry the plate with another soft rag. Continue until you are happy with the final result. Final thought: If the magnetic bed truly cannot stick the print to itself, change it right now! But I do know some hobbyists who like to keep their printer looking pristine at all times, so if thats you once again, it is probably best to change it to buildtak. (Probably just me rooting for my own material but buildtak is simple to clean and does not require any adheisives on the plate.) Sorry that im late to answer, but I wish you best luck in finding your personal favorite material!

Hi cgeneee! Judging on the amount of area that the print is touching on the buildplate, it only seems that a brim around 10-20mm around the print is needed. However, as gr5 stated, it is probably best to enable "touching buildplate" for supports. In cura, there should also be a setting called “support overhang angle”. You can play with the numbers until you feel that amount of supports are sufficient. Hope your print turned out well (even though I am late to answer)!

Yes, it will be far easier to identify whats wrong if a picture is sent. I do believe from your description that it was under extrusion, but I cannot confirm it. As madman4 has said, you may get a new nozzle but since you stated that you are a relative newbie, it is probably a clog. Try cleaning the inside of the nozzle or increase the flow rate for now. Decrease your printing speed to 35-45mm/s. Please let me know if you have any questions!

hello bearsfeat! I would like to know your flow rate and layer height. Prints can turn notoriosly bad when using larger nozzles.

Hello 3d fails! Those little dots are what the community likes to call “zits”. They are caused when the extruder “frequently starts and stops” while a print is taking place. The simplest ways to fix the problem are by enabling coasting, and/or adding your retraction settings in the slicer. A good place to start with your retraction distance is 5mm. If there are still some dots, increase the distance by 0.5-1mm increments, if stringing is prevalent, go ahead by decreasing it with 0.5-1mm increments. Please let me know if you have any questions!

I agree with GregValiant. In addition, you should listen for a clicking sound which is caused by the extruder trying to push the filament through the nozzle but unsuccessfully doing so (a good indicator that the bed is too close to the nozzle . Once you have properly bed leveled with some paper or very thin cardboard, make sure to check that the first layer cannot be easily scrubbed off using your finger.