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  1. I can confirm that the problem is there with an UM3 * Cura 4.6.1 * Firmware is Just ran in the same symptoms than user @gmeardi, except I can not recall aborting a print job. Instead I had removed a job and forgot to confirm that I had it removed. It stood like that for a couple of hours. I reseted Cura Connect at the printer, then it rebooted and the blocking print in the queue was gone. With this I could continue to print.
  2. Thanks Smithy, I know that now from this thread. My point was - since you had asked - when you believe the manual and do not search the forum, you come to a different conclusion.
  3. Thanks, I hoped so, but I was not sure yet. My first complex print on glass just finished and came out beautifully.
  4. Quotes from the Manual From Preparing the print: or all materials that are supported on the Ultimaker 3 it is also recommended to apply a thin layer of glue (using the glue stick from the Accessory Box) or an adhesion sheet to the glass plate before starting a print. This will make sure that your print adheres well to the glass plate. From Removing the print: If glue was used on the glass plate, run lukewarm water over the print side of the plate to dissolve the glue. Once the glue is dissolved, it is easier to remove the print. If PVA was used, place the glas
  5. Very good question. But first thanks for all the valuable input :-=😄! Interesting you ask that question. To make sense please try to get to a bloody novice p.o.v. After reading the documentation on the web page the glue stick was actually quite a frightening thing for me, no kidding. I had waited many years before getting a FDM printer just because I did not want to tweak a set of 200 parameters for getting a decent print from a home made device (been there done that..). So spending several thousands Euros for that device made sense when it left time to focus on the mod
  6. I have to add another disadvantage. I am not sure if Ultimaker sheets are different, I have not tested them. As describes the nozzles are pressed into the material in the procedure. The larger BB nozzle for PVA is the first and exerts more pressure than the second, PLA nozzle. Thus the "craters" have a different size and thus the height measurements are different for both. The result still passes the Bed levelling without "Head Distance Error" but probable with a low margin. When printing with the sheet again yesterday I had failed prints on PVA to 100%. The first layer
  7. I have this part that has a low piece of single wall 0.4mm. The wall comes out pretty good if the line start is set to radom. However, the quality is a low worse that it could be because the cura slicer result is so strange (see image). Compared to the two support walls around it it (where I does what I want) the slicer does not do the obvious thing with wall of the part itself make the square in one go. Instead it breaks off at the corners. For thicker walls is does correctly just plane one move around the square. The resulting part is not good in the corners. Attached i
  8. Hi I got my cheap Sous Vide stick and it is running for 1.5hrs with 35°deg now. The results are very good so far. I plainly forgot to remove the PVA build material (about 50% of the part) and found that it really fully resoved. On the parts were alreay less remains of the PVA structure than I have before from 48hr submersing into water with several water exchanges. I just swapped out the water and I am going to see if it removed all of the PVA. From what I can say now I think UM should include such a thing with their printers. At least the help pages should describ
  9. Thanks for the link. I apologize, I have not seen that link you your page. From my tests I can not confirm that all will resolve over time, at least within 48hrs. But that was cold water only exchanged like 2x. I will test 35°deg and I think for that reason the cheap sous vide approach best since its the only way I am aware of to control low temps and move the water without manual intervention.
  10. You are right, I tried that that with some outside support structures before. After a couple of minutes in the water some of those could be snapped off.
  11. I started to think about magnetic mixers, but I think the sous vide things have the advantage to be programmable. Sounds like the hassle free approach that I was looking for. Great Idea!
  12. Good suggestion. That could show if the corners get cleaned out. However, if the glibber does not fully dissove it may accumulate in the tubes of the device and in the long run block the dishwasher. I had that once with stickers on jelly glasses. Could be repaired but was not cheap. Are you aware about what cleaning times we are talking about in a fish tank with warm water? Is it like 1hr or is it more like 10 or 20hrs?
  13. What is that? Thanks for your feedback. @SandervG, your are saying "warm" water, so as your are from Ultimaker, do I take it that there is no specified optimal temperature in the material specs or from laboratory tests? So I take from your replies, that there is no simple way got solve the glibbery leftover bits in the corners, holes and cavities without manual intervention. It funny. The first consumer SLA guys came up with extra UV curing devices all customers needed to buy after a few years. Are we looking here for new devices to remove PVA suppo
  14. A lot of people seem to have printing and storing problems with PVA. Fortunately I do not, it prints quite fine. But I have the problem that I can not really get it off. Since I am printing small parts (>20mm) with corners, holes and edges, it sits in there. I sumberged the parts in water for 2days. I added dishwashing detergent, I stirred it from time time time, I changed the water 2-3 times - all to no avail. My observation is, that initially material dissoves rather quickly (1hr or so). But some time it stops. When I remove larger chunks once they come loose,
  15. @Enigma_M4, great thanks for the links. >But there's no guarantee it'll work. But there is the guarantee that you'd never know if you don't even try 🙂 If the design is as you say, the part is already lost, isn't it. So trying it should be a no-brainer and throwing it away is a lost chance in finding out exactly how easy they break, right?
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