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  1. I can confirm that the problem is there with an UM3 * Cura 4.6.1 * Firmware is Just ran in the same symptoms than user @gmeardi, except I can not recall aborting a print job. Instead I had removed a job and forgot to confirm that I had it removed. It stood like that for a couple of hours. I reseted Cura Connect at the printer, then it rebooted and the blocking print in the queue was gone. With this I could continue to print.
  2. Thanks Smithy, I know that now from this thread. My point was - since you had asked - when you believe the manual and do not search the forum, you come to a different conclusion.
  3. Thanks, I hoped so, but I was not sure yet. My first complex print on glass just finished and came out beautifully.
  4. Quotes from the Manual From Preparing the print: or all materials that are supported on the Ultimaker 3 it is also recommended to apply a thin layer of glue (using the glue stick from the Accessory Box) or an adhesion sheet to the glass plate before starting a print. This will make sure that your print adheres well to the glass plate. From Removing the print: If glue was used on the glass plate, run lukewarm water over the print side of the plate to dissolve the glue. Once the glue is dissolved, it is easier to remove the print. If PVA was used, place the glass plate and print in water to dissolve the PVA as this makes print removal easier This clearly means the standard procedure is to remove the build plate for each print/failed print, run into the kitchen/bathroom and clean it. All not required with the mat. If that what is written in the manual if never practically done, they shouldn't write it. I only tested the procedure, because someone in the forum wrote to wipe the glue with a wet paper towel. That made a lot more sense than to put a thick layer of glue stick which may be several 100um thick onto the bed. But they did not write that either..
  5. Very good question. But first thanks for all the valuable input :-=😄! Interesting you ask that question. To make sense please try to get to a bloody novice p.o.v. After reading the documentation on the web page the glue stick was actually quite a frightening thing for me, no kidding. I had waited many years before getting a FDM printer just because I did not want to tweak a set of 200 parameters for getting a decent print from a home made device (been there done that..). So spending several thousands Euros for that device made sense when it left time to focus on the modelling and the parts instead of the printing process. So every variable potentially affecting print process or quality is a threat. So when I got the tip with the sheets and that they just work without any glue that was reason enough to take them. At the same time other threads hit home: moisture sensitivity is THE major impact which I was not honestly informed about up front. Every system has such troubles (same with Form 1 where the build tank turned out to be the main consumable). In that light any solution to make "adhesion" not source of build failures was/is very welcome! And they really worked fine - no removing of the glass required, multiple prints possible, removing the print is basically cleaning the platform. And they were said to be usable with any material (did not test it yet). After several 10th of hours with the device (the initial idea did not really work...), I can say now I am confident enough to know the quality level to expect and I can judge if something is a problem (Newbies can't), so I am relaxed switching to other methods. So honestly, if not for the damage of that procedure (do the bed&heads really have to be warm?) I would still use the mat, just because it was really trouble free so far. Now I have a lot of worries more and no idiot proof guide on the website: best practices on how to remove glue, do I need to do that at all? Or how often? May it accumulate or not? Thicknesstroubles? Does it age & how to tell? Really removing the glass bed all the time? Print failed procedure (redo, keep it, clean it?) Different types of glue for different materials? Yes, all is in the forum. Its a bit an own learning curve on that issue. And if I dump the UM for 6month doing something else, afterwards I would need to start again.... I guess I can say I am glad I have the device and I am impressed of the results (if they come out unfailed), but I also am glad that I did not join the club sooner.🙃 So I thankfully take your experience and try bare glass the next weeks. But since I have ABS and PC waiting, I guess I will see where to get those UM sheets
  6. I have to add another disadvantage. I am not sure if Ultimaker sheets are different, I have not tested them. As describes the nozzles are pressed into the material in the procedure. The larger BB nozzle for PVA is the first and exerts more pressure than the second, PLA nozzle. Thus the "craters" have a different size and thus the height measurements are different for both. The result still passes the Bed levelling without "Head Distance Error" but probable with a low margin. When printing with the sheet again yesterday I had failed prints on PVA to 100%. The first layer just would not stick and the material accumulated around the nozzle. The PLA adhered greatly. I found that the PLA was a tiny bit too flat. With the height error between the heads, the PVA head was far too low. The filament was pushed out to the sides and the nozzle itself scratched away most of the filament making it almost not adhere at all. After the first layer is broken, the resulting parts were really bad. When turned the glass over with the same model and the same settings all worked perfect again...
  7. I have this part that has a low piece of single wall 0.4mm. The wall comes out pretty good if the line start is set to radom. However, the quality is a low worse that it could be because the cura slicer result is so strange (see image). Compared to the two support walls around it it (where I does what I want) the slicer does not do the obvious thing with wall of the part itself make the square in one go. Instead it breaks off at the corners. For thicker walls is does correctly just plane one move around the square. The resulting part is not good in the corners. Attached is the profile that caused the slicing and an image of the skin settings. I tried a few settings back and forth but never really got a change. Any tips what could affect that.? TestProfile.curaprofile
  8. Hi I got my cheap Sous Vide stick and it is running for 1.5hrs with 35°deg now. The results are very good so far. I plainly forgot to remove the PVA build material (about 50% of the part) and found that it really fully resoved. On the parts were alreay less remains of the PVA structure than I have before from 48hr submersing into water with several water exchanges. I just swapped out the water and I am going to see if it removed all of the PVA. From what I can say now I think UM should include such a thing with their printers. At least the help pages should describe this option, because the trial and error approach with cold water is just fustrating and a waste of time. Only drawback so far is the SousVide housing design. It sucked in some small parts inside its housing, because the water slits are too wide. This can be solved to open it an put in some fine metal mesh. Biggest problem is really to get about 10x10cm of that stuff in the first place. Maybe I harvest an old kitchen sieve.
  9. Thanks for the link. I apologize, I have not seen that link you your page. From my tests I can not confirm that all will resolve over time, at least within 48hrs. But that was cold water only exchanged like 2x. I will test 35°deg and I think for that reason the cheap sous vide approach best since its the only way I am aware of to control low temps and move the water without manual intervention.
  10. You are right, I tried that that with some outside support structures before. After a couple of minutes in the water some of those could be snapped off.
  11. I started to think about magnetic mixers, but I think the sous vide things have the advantage to be programmable. Sounds like the hassle free approach that I was looking for. Great Idea!
  12. Good suggestion. That could show if the corners get cleaned out. However, if the glibber does not fully dissove it may accumulate in the tubes of the device and in the long run block the dishwasher. I had that once with stickers on jelly glasses. Could be repaired but was not cheap. Are you aware about what cleaning times we are talking about in a fish tank with warm water? Is it like 1hr or is it more like 10 or 20hrs?
  13. What is that? Thanks for your feedback. @SandervG, your are saying "warm" water, so as your are from Ultimaker, do I take it that there is no specified optimal temperature in the material specs or from laboratory tests? So I take from your replies, that there is no simple way got solve the glibbery leftover bits in the corners, holes and cavities without manual intervention. It funny. The first consumer SLA guys came up with extra UV curing devices all customers needed to buy after a few years. Are we looking here for new devices to remove PVA support? I am a bit surprise by that issue. I just see all these images with meter over meter of shelfs full of Ultimaker printers printing in "Printing farms". Are behind those shelfs long tables where low-cost workers manually move containers with water over hours and then finish off the last corners of industrial parts with toothbrushes in order to remove the support? Obviously that no one would like to put up an image like that 😉 Seriously, this is quite a limitation of PVA that I find quite unexpected - your page just lists steps to remove "Breakaway". By saying nothing about a prodecure for PVA you create the (high) user expectation that it is just "throw in water and done". Needing something like 10-20l of warm water and regular manual intervention over hours plus final manual corner cleaning to remove the support from about some 30 grams of netto print is quite a procedure. To be honest, I find that a bit disappointing. Maybe its because dual heads and thus the ability to print solvable support was the prime reason to get an Ulitmaker device in the first place. And that is when the device is realling doing a much better job in some areas than expected. Now, I would not like to give up so soon. Would it be worth to experiment with aectone, oils, acids, lyes, vinegar, detergents like toilet cleaner, automotive brake cleaner, petroleum, isopropyl alcohol, etc, or has that all been tried?
  14. A lot of people seem to have printing and storing problems with PVA. Fortunately I do not, it prints quite fine. But I have the problem that I can not really get it off. Since I am printing small parts (>20mm) with corners, holes and edges, it sits in there. I sumberged the parts in water for 2days. I added dishwashing detergent, I stirred it from time time time, I changed the water 2-3 times - all to no avail. My observation is, that initially material dissoves rather quickly (1hr or so). But some time it stops. When I remove larger chunks once they come loose, I left them in the water to see what happens. Also there they did not fully dissolve. For all parts glibbery blobs remains, about 8-10mm thick. So far I cleaned my parts with loads water (changing the water all the time) with manual scrubbing and using tools to get in the corners. Some parts I broke in the process, in some I just can not reach those areas, so a bit of residue remains. I have not tried boiling it, though. Are there any tricks to fully resolve the material without manual intervention?
  15. @Enigma_M4, great thanks for the links. >But there's no guarantee it'll work. But there is the guarantee that you'd never know if you don't even try 🙂 If the design is as you say, the part is already lost, isn't it. So trying it should be a no-brainer and throwing it away is a lost chance in finding out exactly how easy they break, right?
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