GoncaloLaranjeira

Yep I was using Cura 4.9. Looks like a easy fix 😄 Thanks @Enigma_M4 !

Hi everyone! Lately I'm getting a lot of 2 colored prints orders. I'm going to assume the 1st color as the main object color and 2nd color as the detail/text/etc color. I was having some quality problems when printing thin text with the 2nd color but got them resolved by reducing the Layer Width in Cura to 0.26mm and maintaining the default values of "Initial Layer Line Width" to 120% and "Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion" to 0mm (in all my prints I use 100% and -0.2mm respectively to annul the "elephant's foot"). The problem is that I enabled the "Prime Blob" for both extruders but only the 1st printing extruder (in this case the 2nd color) will prime blob and will start printing fine, but as soon as the extruder changes to the 1st the filament is not "Prime Blobbed" and the filament is far from the nozzle causing it to not print anything until some time (until the filament reaches the nozzle), so I have to do some baby sitting and after the nozzle changed I got to the 1st extruder opened the feeder lever and pushed the filament into the feeder until I feel it can't go further (reached the nozzle), and it worked fine, but because the 2nd extruder was also printing on top of the object it would fail if not "baby sited" 😞 I resolved this by using a prime tower 🙂 . Here's the result: I'm currently printing a custom handbrake for racing sim games (e-brake) and one of my orders requested a red 1st color with the text in 2nd color. The issue is that the prime tower is only printing the 2nd extruder when there's a layer with that color (really don't understand why), so when it arrives the actual 2nd color printing layer it's not printing anything because the filament is far from the nozzle: The other issue is that if I push the filament to the nozzle it will print the layers correctly but there's the chance of getting this blobs in the print: This blobs cause the nozzle to hit them in the next printed layer and end in a massive layer shift 😕 I resolved the under-extrusion on the letters by instead of printing only the letters with the 2nd color by printing an entire 1mm layer of it and the result was perfect! But got the shifted layers (probably a blob) 😕 Gonna re-print right now with a custom Prime Tower to see if it resolves the issue. Fingers crossed! If someone knows how to resolve this problem with the second filament not being prime blobed and being so far from the extruder please help! Thank you all!

Hi everyone, thanks for your replies! I managed to reassemble the nozzle on the extruder in the first attempt, after unclogging it with a 0.4mm needle. I currently have so many prints ordered that now I can't try to switch to a spare nozzle because there's always a chance it won't be perfect on the first time. When I have some time to spare, I'll do it and put the process here :) Thanks!

Hi everyone, I have an UMS5 and I would like to know if anybody already uses or used a different extruder in the original Ultimaker print core (AA 0.4). I found this extruders: https://www.3djake.com/micro-swiss/coated-nozzle-for-ultimaker-3 https://www.3djake.com/brozzl/hardened-steel-nozzle-for-ultimaker-3-aa Do anyone has some experience that can share about this topic? Thanks!

Hey everyone, just to clarify that I could unclog the nozzle and printed 2Kg of PLA so far with no problems at all! What I did was pre-heated the extruder to 280ºC and then with a 0.3mm needle work my way from the tip to the core, slowly but strong, and voilà! Thanks everyone for the help!

Yes, will try with a needle with 0.4mm or less! Thanks!

Hi guys! thanks a lot for your info! I'm gonna try a needle with 0.4mm or less. Isn't a wire brush too abrasive for the inside of the nozzle? I read somewhere that if you get abrasive materials into your nozzle, the plastic that you'll print after, will tends to stick a lot more to the irregular walls of the nozzle.. Smithy, yes I agree, the print core is too fragile, but you can operate it by always grabbing the heating block, but yes, it's definitely not recommended taking the extruder apart. Will check that, thanks a lot!

Hi everyone, Today I got my AA 0.4 extruder of my UMS5 completely clogged, tried cleaning it with clean filament (hot pulls and cold pulls) but I can't get anything out.. It even exploded a little bit of filament through the top of the extruder away in on of the pulls, when I was trying to push the filament down. I already disassembled the nozzle form the extruder, and now I wonder if is it possible to only purchase a nozzle instead of a complete extruder.. If yes, where? Is there other better options, like switching to an Olsson Ruby nozzle? And other question: can you actually switch to a 0.8mm nozzle and go around Ultimaker software to mimic a AA 0.8 extruder, instead of buying a full AA 0.8 original extruder? Some feedback would be very appreciated! Share some experiences when trying to do any of the above if you have some!

Oh no.. I tried to print on PLA a simple object right after tried a small Nylon object and now the extruder is clogged and I can't unclogged it, even with clean filament.. What do you suggest to unclog the extruder??

Hi everyone! Just bought a filament from the Smartfil brand called "NylonStrong" and I was wondering how bad can the filament affect a standard AA 0.4 nozzle. This filament is intended to print between 250 / 260ºC and the printing bed should be at 90 / 100ºC. The brand even advises: What are your thoughts? Should I definitely not print using a standard AA 0.4 nozzle?

Hi everyone! I have a UMS5 and I can't print more than 2 to 3 layers of Timberfill® wood filament.. The first 2/3 layers it prints really well and then it just clogs 😞 The filament was put on the oven at 50ºC for 3 hours to remove any possible moist, just like Timberfill® suggests: I have a 0.4 Nozzle and my current setting for the wood printing are the follow: Layer Height: 0.2mm Printing Temperature: 175ºC Build Plate Temperature: 47ºC Print Speed: 70mm/s (walls/infill/initial layer) Retraction Speed: 25mm/s Retraction Distance: 10mm Z-Hop when retracted: Disabled Printing with a 2 line skirt to start flowing some filament (because filament can't be in the nozzle for too long, otherwise it burns and consequently clogs.. UMS5 uses 2.85mm filament, is this the main cause of the clogs? Because the Timberfill® brand recommends: Do you guys have any experience printing with this wood filament? Thanks!

Thank you! The issue was solved by doind that!

Hi, I'm currently trying to print a model, but everytime I multiply it Cura gives me this first layer's "bug": As you can see both top and bottom multiplies are ok with a all filled initial layer, but the models in the middle are missing some lines in the first layer.. Anyone knows why this happen? Thanks!

Hi Bobkelley22, You still having the same issues? Sorry for taking so long...

4.8.0