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  1. This also happened with another piece of glass, a large 30mm x 15mm chunk came out, I turned it over and another chunk came out right behind the other. I repaired the smaller damage but maybe the large one is a bit beyond this type of repair. Having said that, I may give it a go just out of curiosity. 😁
  2. Here's a picture of the windscreen repair kit I used: You don't get a lot of the resin so use it sparingly.
  3. You'll also find that there are some profiles for Cura (and other slicing software) supplied on the SD card that came with the printer. Follow the instructions provided on the SD card to install them on Cura.
  4. Hi folks, I'm not sure if this has been covered before but I have found a pretty good repair for borosilicate glass when it loses small chunks as I'm sure has happened to many a glass bed. I recently lost a couple of small chunks out of one of my glass beds, first on one side and then on the other, and although i can reposition some parts to avoid it, it's not always possible. I decided to have a go at repairing it using a car windscreen repair kit made by Rainx. It uses an epoxy resin which cures in UV light, so a short spell outside in the sun quickly hardens it off and
  5. Hi Gr5, Thanks for the layer info. As you say regarding ironing of the first layer, the trapped air would be a problem, so, what if the lines of the first layer were set to leave a very small gap between the lines of filament, and then the ironing process is offset to travel centred on the gaps, therefore filling and pushing air out as it goes. This I think would produce practically invisible lines in the finished surface. Another area that I think would be good is for circular objects where again, the first layer becomes the face side of the print, can be printed in a spiral ra
  6. This is the underside of the items plus brim. Same settings as the print in the previous picture except that the above has the bed adjusted slightly closer to the nozzle. I think if I go any closer it'll end up scrubbing. Just for clarity, the tapered sections showing in the middle of each long item are mostly support.
  7. Thanks for the photos Gr5. It looks like I'm probably getting about the same results as your bottom picture although it's tricky to see it in black. This is a print in progress now. Printing ABS at 0.15mm with 0.3mm first layer: Ideally I would like to print just the first layer at 0.06 and then switch to 0.15mm for subsequent layers.........but i don't know how to do that yet, i guess you'd have to mix profiles somehow?
  8. If you want to still use the activator with cyrano then spray it on "after" you've aligned the parts. It will harden any cyano that's oozed out and lock the piece in position while the rest cures.
  9. Ok, I've tried your suggestions, "not in skin". I've also upped the first layer flow to 115% and increased nozzle temperature by 15c. Although there is a slight improvement, lines are still visible. Thank you again for your suggestions but I will continue to push for 1st layer ironing with a freind who does write code. It has 2 chances so we shall see. 😁
  10. No, obviously the bottom layer is not a top layer. I'm suggesting that since when a top layer is ironed, the ironing is pushing more filament into the "previous layer" which it obviously fuses to to create a line free top layer, why would this not also work with a first layer? surely the physics of the operation would be the same for a top layer as indeed any layer in the build and with a first layer at say 0.15mm the heat from ironing would penetrate the first layer since at this stage there is only "one layer", it would fill any gaps and smooth out the first layer before proceeding to the n
  11. I I understand that ironing should only work on top layers, but since it is effectively forcing a small amount of extra filament into the previous layer, would this not also force filament into a first layer, reheating it and perhaps helping to smooth out the first layer against the glass to produce an entirely flat first layer with little evidence of lines remaining? I will take a look at the combing settings anyway and see if that improves things. Thanks for the tip.
  12. Hi all. I'm pretty new to 3D printing and I'm currently using a Bibo touch 2. I have a question about the ironing feature in Cura. I'm using Ultimaker Cura 4.5 at the moment. I have used this feature as prescribed for smoothing the top layers of prints where I deem it necessary, however, some prints I'm doing where the first layer becomes the top of the model would benefit from ironing as well. Is it possible to set Cura to iron the first layer of the model, obviously excluding the brim or skirt. On some designs I'm incorporating logos or lettering in the first .5mm of
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