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Everything posted by Carbon

  1. We use this quite a lot, both in Blue and Red. Not very often do we print pure TPU parts, but we infuse it with PC and PET-G, here are a few pics: PET-G with TPU: PC and TPU: (top item PEG-G + TPU bottom part PC + TPU) We have found that it bounds slightly better with PC ( although PC is limited to AA0.8mm nozzle...)
  2. Have you tried various / different positions on the glass / base plate? Does it still do the same? Some helpful info already in the forum, here's a recent post:
  3. Got this to work a treat, thanks for creating. 👍 On a side note, I can only get this to work on "Dongle", when I plug in the mouse for charging, the plug in stops working.....any ideas? Cura 4.10.0 3DConnexion version versions: 3DxWare, 3DxWinCore
  4. This is how we store ours at the moment...
  5. Managed to do it, thanks.....👍 Changed the logo on the back / base of the buildplate too:
  6. That list is a big help, thank you ahoeben 👍 wall_line_width_x does not appear in the Metadata I have..... I'm trying to change the "Light Green" background to "Black".....
  7. Trying to generate a different colour scheme (just to be different.....) Any idea what this "FIELD" is called in the Metadata?
  8. Changing the "IN-FILL" density of the support material will help.
  9. It's only the brass element that's heated, if the filament is stuck higher up the nozzle, an additional heat source is needed. Try a hot pull using PLA first, failing that.... Try heating the top end of the nozzle with a heat gun. heat the nozzle in the printer to 270°C, remove it from the printer, taking care not to touch the nozzle itself (the printer will throw up an error when core is removed, but......) Then heat the top part with a heat gun say about 100°C and try a top pull.
  10. The thermometer inside the printer, how much difference is there compared to the Digital Factory readings? I'm curious....
  11. Enabling Prime Tower would help with this.
  12. Or you can manually change it on the Printers Screen "Select Type". (Find the replacement material and over ride it).
  13. I agree with Smithy above. Drawn a quick "mock-up" and created an .stl this is what it should look like, also added some Rad to strengthen the fins. The GREEN arrow shows the "Start Point" - As you can see there's only 1. Your model shows 3, which suggests it's not connected.
  14. Have you checked the feeder tension? Credit to DidierKlein for this: The second arrow shows the pressure level, it should be at the middle
  15. Apologies terrypin....I wasn't clear.... Breakaway material is a specific type of material. https://ultimaker.com/materials/breakaway The settings of which are within Cura.......she below screenshot. This is a screenshot of something that is printing right now: We are using PLA material, and this is very easy to remove. The image also shows what settings we're using.
  16. Reducing the "Support Density" from 20% to 10% might help..... Also, using breakaway material will help.
  17. Cura Plug-in is here: https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/materials/rlsijlbing/BASF_Ultrafuse_316L
  18. It has USB on one end and Micro USB on the other. We found it much easier to remove the camera housing from the printer frame open the case and change the Camera Board ONLY (by un-plugging the micro USB end and replacing). A lot easier than trying to re-route the new cable. Really simple and easy to do.
  19. We've had this problem also..... Contacted reseller and obtained this: Now the problem has been sorted: According to reseller: "The camera sometimes go myopic over time".
  20. Have you tried a different orientation? (Spinning the ball around....)
  21. I find it fairly accurate. When I begin prints, I check the first few layers.....once the print is well underway, I always "Tune" the print speed to 130% - 140% as it's a nice surprise to come back to the printer and it's almost finished, sooner than expected.......seems to work ok with PLA, not too well with ABS mind (delamination of layers...)
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