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Jdo300

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Everything posted by Jdo300

  1. In case anyone runs into this problem. I found the solution. In my Start GCODE settings, I needed to ad "T1" on the last line, as Cura, for some odd reason, doesn't auto set the Second extruder even though I have it set in the profile settings. Adding this line at the beginning of the GCODE for the print solved the problem for me. However, Now I have a new issue related to this profile, that I'm posting about in a new thread here: - Jason O
  2. Does anyone know if there is a Cura setting to force the second nozzle to un-retract filament AFTER it is over the wipe tower and not before? I'm doing a dual material print with PC+HIPS (using the HIPS as support) and whenever the nozzles switch, it first un-retracts the filament back into the nozzle (which results in some filament coming out onto my part) BEFORE it travels over to the wipe tower to prime the nozzle. This seems like a simple fix but I'm not sure what Cura settings to change to correct it.... Any ideas? NOTE: I'm using Cura 4.8.0 Here's a short video showing the problem in action happening: NOTE: I'm running this print on my Airwolf3D AXIOM Dual Direct Drive printer. Any help/tips/ideas appreciated! Thanks! Jason O PC+HIPS Standard Profile.curaprofile
  3. Hello, Would love to know if anyone has run into this before. Is there anyone from the Ultimaker team who could take a look at this? I'm hoping it's not some kine of weird software bug. Thanks!
  4. I'm creating a new Polycarbonate + HIPS dual material profile for my Airwolf3D AXIOM Dual Direct Drive printer. This printer has two nozzles and so far, I have been creating profiles to work with only a single material, which has been working well so far. However, I want to create this new profile so I can use HIPS as support material for my Polycarb prints. I tried to print a test part with the profile I've made, which creates a raft out of HIPS to build the part on. But for some reason, though I have the Build Plate Adhesion Extruder set to Extruder 2, it keeps trying to print the raft using Extruder 1. I have attached a copy of the profile hoping someone could help me out. I hope I'm just missing a simple checkbox somewhere else that I needed to tick. NOTE: I do have the prime tower enabled also. Thank you, Jason O Polycarbonate + HIPS.curaprofile
  5. Not Sure, I haven't tried this part (or any vase mode parts) on this printer yet in PLA.
  6. @gr5, thank you for the great tips! I haven't had a chance to come back to this recently, but I plan to resume optimizing my profile soon. Hopefully I'll have some "Good" news for you once I try a few settings changes according to what you mentioned. Thank you! Jason O
  7. Thank you both @geert_2 and @Enigma_M4 for the suggestions! These are both excellent! @geert_2, I currently created a revised 3D model of my part with the support structure you suggested and hope to try it out soon on my printer. I'm currently fighting a couple of other, more basic ABS profile optimization issues that I need to solve before I come back to this one (See my post here). I will update you here with my results once I have had a chance to try a test print of it. @Enigma_M4. I tried your suggestion, but unfortunately, for this part, the bottom of the lip has to be flat in order for it to sit on the grinder holder. However, this is a great trick to keep in mind for other parts which don't have this requirement. Thank you! Jason O
  8. Hello All, I've been working on optimizing an ABS profile in Cura 4.8.0 for printing a small test part (a miniature studded vase in this case), but I am running into issues with the outside surface quality of the first few layers. The part is printed in vase mode (spiralize outer contour) with the following basic settings: Printer: Airwolf3D AXIOM Dual Direct Drive Nozzle Size: 0.5 mm Layer Height: 0.25 mm Line Width: 0.5 mm Top/Bottom Thickness: 1.2 mm Print Temperature: 250 C Bed Temperature: 130 C Print Speed: 80 mm/s Outer wall Speed: 60 mm/s Top/Bottom Speed: 40 mm/s It seems that the wall layers that correspond with the Bottom thickness have the worst quality (see attached picture). Everything above it seems to print really nicely. What I have tried so far: 1. Adding a brim (thinking the heated bed might be overheating it) - no change 2. Reducing the print temperature thinking it was just overheating - no noticeable difference 2. Slowing down the outer wall speed (first from 60 mm/s to 40, and then all the way down to 15 mm/s) - no noticeable change in quality. It seems that the presence of the bottom layers is doing "something" but I'm stumped. Any ideas? Thanks! Jason O
  9. Hi Everyone, I've been trying to print this portafilter dosing cup model (for an espresso machine) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4648455 And for the life of me, I've been having problems trying to support the small lip sticking out around the edges without causing issues with the surface quality on the outside of the cup. I'm using Cura 4.6 and currently setup simple supports using the Cross type with walls to keep them from collapsing. The cross type creates four gaps in the support material to allow airflow between the outside walls and support walls. But when the part prints (I'm using ABS), the outside walls shielded by the support material look discolored and have some layer separation in spots (see pictures below). I suspect that it is not being evenly heated because of the supports and am trying to find a simple way to redo the supports so they are not completely shielding the sides. Doe anyone have any ideas of how to best make supports for the lip around the outside of the cup? Ideally, I want to make them open so air can get to the sides. This model was printed on an Airwolf3D AXIOM Dual Direct Drive Printer.
  10. Hello, I'm having a problem printing white NinjaFlex TPU on an Airwolf3D AXIOM Dual Direct Drive printer. I am trying to run some test prints of a face mask ear strap but am having problems with the nozzle clogging shortly after the print starts (within the first 5 or so minutes). What happens is the print will start printing the first layer without a problem, but after printing the brim and the outline of the part, the nozzle starts clogging as it prints the infill for the first layer. I used the recommended profile settings on the NinjaTek product page as a guide for the settings and am using Apex (Airwolf3D’s rebranded version of Cura) for the slicer with the standard TPU profile modified with the NinjaTek settings for speeds. So far, I have tried a deep clean of the nozzle (which was using ABS previously), and tightening the hobbled bolt in the direct drive hoping that would help. I also tried changing the Z offset from the table in case the nozzle was too close or far away from the bed. I have attached an image showing the part I tried to print, and a copy of the profile I used for the test print (you can still view the settings without having Apex). Can anyone give me some advice on what I can do to solve this issue? Thank you! Jason O Apex TPU Profile.zip
  11. Hello All, I have two Airwolf3D AXIOM Dual Direct Drive printers that I’ve worked with for several years off and on for small/medium sized prints in ABS and Polycarb. But I’ve always had issues from day one to get good quality part finishes with my printers, to the point where I found myself spending literally hours reprinting parts again and again to optimize the print profile to come out *mostly* decent. In the past day or so, I determined to spend time to look into the problem and really tune the printer to work well with ABS prints (Polycarb and PLA prints generally come out much better with little to no adjustment of the factory profile settings). So, I printed a series of the Calibration cubes from Thingiverse using the standard and Fine ABS print profile settings (with no modifications) to get a baseline to work from. I was wondering if some here could give me some tips on settings I can adjust to clean up some of the issues I’m having. Printer 1 has a 0.5 mm nozzle installed with a white ABS spool and Printer 2 has a 0.35 mm nozzle installed also with a white ABS spool (both Airwolf’s brand). I've attached images of the cubes printed from Printer 1 and 2 on both the Standard and Fine print profile settings (unmodified except for changing the nozzle size to 0.35 for printer two) Observations: Printer 1 - Standard ABS Profile Three of the four edges of the cube are not very sharp, but wavy. The layers of the cube seem to be a bit uneven The detail of the embossed lettering looks pretty uneven and jaggad at spots One can see the infill lines a bit poking through the sides Uneven, dull surface finish on the top Small pits in the sides of the letter Z in the top Printer 1 - Fine ABS Profile Sharpness and detail of lettering looks much better (makes sense, fine profile) Corners generally sharper and more even No more pitting in the Z on the top Still has dull, uneven surface finish on the top Some warping on the bottom (may be my fault for not using enough bed adhesive) Printer 2 - Standard ABS Profile All the same problems as Printer 1 but worse Looks like top surface got overheated (pit holes) It does seem to have a nicer, smoother schene due to the higher temperature Printer 2 - Fine ABS Profile Generally similar characteristics as Printer 1’s Fine profile cube Noticeably better layer surface finish and top surface finish Y letter looks better but X looks worse than Printer 1 This is what I see so far. I’m trying to see if there are some general tweaks I can make to both printers to improve the appearance and finish for parts. It’s clear that temperature is one factor (I know that Printer 2’s bed temperature seems to run a couple of degrees warmer than Printer 1 for the same setpoint, which could account for the surface finish differences. But questions I have are: How to sharpen the corners on all four sides, especially for the Standard profile setting? How to get smoother layer to layer stackups and top surface finish without causing surface pitting on the top layer? Are there any guides out there with systematic calibration test print I can use to dial in my settings? I'm hoping to eventually find a more systematic way to tweak things to minimize wasted time and materials. Any other observations/advice you can provide are extremely helpful! I’ve been putting off doing this for a while but really want to get much better prints with ABS without wasting lots of time and material for each individual part I make (especially large parts). Thanks! Jason O
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