sr1329

So did 4.7.1 fix this?

I really like the ironing feature and am currently calibrating the flow %. I also use the Support fan speed override and really like that feature. I was wondering if an override to change the fan speed at ironing layers would let users calibrate that to achieve different surface textures and finishes. Does anyone else think this could be a cool thing to play with?

So it may be obvious now but needing to go as wide as 0.4 to have easy removal of the brim on a 0.4 nozzle is a sign of the nozzle being too close to the bed. Now that I have figured out my proper Z-offset 0.4 appears as thin line between the print and brim. Parts have no warping whereas I had incidents of warping when my nozzle was too close to the bed. I suppose it's a better calibration aid than the usual "look at lines at top of your first layer".

I wish they warned people about this KNOWN bug so thatan Octolapse user would just wait.

So the other thing just so you know is that I'm using Octolapse and someone on reddit mentioned that there are retraction settings for Octolapse. So probably the issue is there. Spider profile.curaprofile BTW, it just occurred to me that which I was complaining about the consistent travel moves at certain points of time were due to my timed 30 seconds profile I used. Octolapse truly is a new artform.

Sure as soon as I get home. Thank you. On reddit people are asking me to frame it so I ordered a new bed.

Here’s a new picture. Is there a way to get the slicer to not put a starfish in the middle of my print job?

Found it. Amazing. Thank you.

The series? I’ll have to look for that. Anyway disabling combing seems to have worked. Also I upgraded my bed leveling to 5x5. It seems to have solved the problem.

Yes you are right. But those come off with the wipe of my thumb. Anyway I don't know what benefits combing provides. I just tried it as part of my PETG stringing attack. I'll disable it for my coming prints. I wonder if coasting volume will need to be changed. In any case I'll try Linear Advance when I understand Marlin better. Also I've been watching this print and it's doing fine now. It seems to only happen near lower layers whether it is traveling over printed area or over brim/glass/brim. The travel move happens successfully and leaves no trace of stringing. The lower layers print much slower. I just noticed initial layer travel speed is only 100mm/s I'll raise all travel to 200mm/s and disable combing and see how it goes.

I have played with travel settings a little but I can't figure out how to make i stop doing this. Let's say it is printing a rectangle. There are 2 points while it is printing that rectangle the nozzle does a diagonal travel move to the other side of the rectangle. I have dialed out all other stringing except for the triangle caused by this travel move. I have combing enabled to travel over the part except skin. Travel move speed is 150mm/s. Coasting enabled at 0.8mm3 for a 0.4mm nozzle. I don't get stringing anywhere else currently and it took me a few days to dial that in.

Does 4.6.2 work for you on the new drivers? In my case i’m using standard intel integrated graphics and whatever driver Windows 10 installed for it.

Seriously same problem. I was stupid enough to delete all my “userdata” files to see if that was the problem. I ended up recreating my profiles from scratch and it doesn’t work. So I had to go back to 4.6.2 and recreate my profiles there again. I have both installed on the system as installing 4.6.2 doesn’t ask to remove a higher numbered version. I may as well remove 4.7 and keep using 4.6.2. It crashes only upon opening an STL file. Windows is latest release version of 10. I believe version 2003 or whatever the May update was. It happens with all files I’ve tried so it’s not the file. I can open and slice in 4.6.2. There is some output for the error it seemed to reference profiles. And someone mentioned deleting the Cura folder under your userdata worked in this situation on some other version of Cura.

I printed a few more parts. I’m finding 0.4 to be ideal especially with larger parts with a lot of first layer geometry. Otherwise 0.3 is better for smaller parts. No warping or bed adhesion issues. But also yesterday I did maintenance on my hot end and mount. It was a bit loose before. Now my first layer adhesion is so good that I may not even need a brim. However it seems like no harm and lets the extruder work a little before the main print. With 0.4 gap it has no disadvantages at all so I’ll keep using a brim.

Hi. So I looked at the description in the slicer itself. It’s pretty clear there how it says that if you enable this feature the infill will be exposed to air. It’s not a feature I would personally use.

Thank you I’ll go over the documents. I’ve started thinking about the nozzle completely differently now.

On the one print I did adhesion was fine and warping was non existent. In any case it is still attached but just comes off really easily. I had a few failures this morning and left to work but I suspect it is some other issue. I’ll diagnose when I get back.

Tried 0.3. It is still attached to the model. However I just can snap off the brim cleanly. This is a game changer. Models are clean and taking off the brim is like the popping bubble wrap of our times - so much fun. I could print stuff just to pop the brim off now.

So I got home and debrimmed my model. I keep my bed at 80c. My normal flow for the PETG I use is 93%. First layer flow is 100%. Brim width is 8mm. What I found was the brim was fully adhered to the model but was easier to peel off. Not perfectly but cleanup was easier. I think I would try 0.3 next time. Zero warping BTW and it was a flat model pretty thin and flexible even. I suppose the smaller surface models are more prone to warping? Also i’m wondering what’s the difference between flow and layer width. In my mind they would be the same thing but i’m new to 3D printing.

I have the same problem also however on some prints it comes off so cleanly. I have started using only tree supports now and it is a huge improvement but even with tree supports sometimes it places too many points of attachment and i get that rough finish. Sometimes it does amazingly well and I can just peel it off and run my finger over it and get a clean part. Is there something to do with support roof and it’s thickness that would help?

It says disable for both situations and gives different results for them. One should be disabled and the other enabled. I’m so confused by which is which. Also really confused by what exactly it means regarding skin vs infill. So if I disable this setting it will print infill only and allow the Z gaps? If I enable it then it will print both infill and skin? Or If I enable it then it won’t print infill in the Z gaps and if I disable it then it will print infill in the Z gaps? Also what constitutes a Z gap? If I am printing a honeycomb vertically (I have had to so for size reasons and it printed surprisingly well) which parts are Z gaps and which just parts of the model? I suppose I mean if I want nice vertical honeycombs should I enable or disable this?

Thanks for that information. I did 0.1 on PETG can’t wait to get home and see how it peels. Next time I’ll try 0.3mm. The other thing i’m a huge fan of in Cura are the tree supports. They are a game changer (not that I have much experience in the game).

(TL;DR: last paragraph only) I’m still a noob been doing this for about a month. It’s been fun. I suppose I’ll start a little off topic and this may end up being a nozzle/clog thread instead. So I’ve noticed that as a print proceeds it seems to tend towards underextrusion over time. Which is fine in terms of my models. They come out just fine and strong. This is PETG at 245C. The issue is excitement to start the next print and last night this happened. I didn’t even clean the nozzle properly (Bed was cleaned properly though) and started another print. What I noticed was the first layer was super thin and since i’m printing at 0.12mm I got excited about how thin and translucent it prints and how much resolution that would yield in the final model. It was also uneven in thickness and opacity. It had cool lines though. Turns out I was wrong. That was gross underextrusion happening in front my eyes and I didn’t even realize what was wrong. In any case first layer is set to 0.2mm so it should look the same as a 0.2mm print in the first layer. This morning I woke up to the print partially torn off the bed with spaghetti stuck to the nozzle getting pushed around. I cleaned the nozzle properly and the bed and restarted. The new print had a beautiful first layer that was thick enough to be opaque with a nice clean matte finish that looks like it will adhere subsequent layers like a champ. So I got a nice lesson in what a first layer should look like and a reminder that first layer is 0.2mm anyway. My question is what am I doing wrong? Actually I know but what can I do to prevent this? My suspicion is that just sitting there extruding into a blob of melted plastic primed the extruder really well and cleared any clogs. The flow was perfect and the first layer, well I wish I took a picture of it, it was so even and prefect. So getting the point should I be extruding a certain length before I start a new print? Should I use my cleaning filament each time? Or maybe it’s because I haven’t used a cleaning filament since the last roll? I think about 500g have gone through without a cleaning filament run at least. What are best practices for nozzle maintenance? Both between prints and at certain intervals.

Yes sounds like a great idea. The setting itself says the thermal benefits are preserved. I have a print running with a 0.1mm gap. Let’s see how it works. If it’s smooth I’ll reprint a screen face i’m printing. I want it to look good. I also have an upgraded fan and keep it off for 2 layers and 40% after for PETG works well. I still get some curled edges very minor though.

Thanks I’ll try that. Would it still adhere the model to the bed if there is a full gap?