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  1. Hi - Just an update (and my apologies for the late response): Just to be clear, the filament was stuck in the feeder, not extruder. Nevertheless, I manage to find the problem. Upon the reassembly of the feeder, I did not install the tension screw correctly hence resulting in very little traction on the filament. I reinstalled the screw properly and like magic, all problems seem to be a thing of the past. Well, all but my CPE woes... they seem to be never ending 😄 Kind Regards, Friedl
  2. Hi @stan_bulgaria - No problem. I am not on the forum often either and for some reason I do not get emails when someone replies to a topis I posted. Thank you for all the information. I will try again... and again... and again (it seems, haha). If I indeed find a successful set of settings, I will be sure to post them here. I know one thing, it is for sure not the settings that appears on the label of the CPE product 😄 Just with regards to bed-adhesion, I use Magigoo and not even that could get the part to stick. Many thanks! Friedl
  3. Hi @Torgeir - Wow, thank you for the thorough explanation, it is much appreciated. Just for more reference, I am using to original Ultimaker nozzles only. I received a set with the UM2+ upgrade kit I purchased. For now, PLA seems to be printing fine at 220C so I will stick to this until the current project is over. I will then be able to afford some downtime on the printer 🙂 I ma trying to print a functional prototype for the client now using CPE which seems to be a whole different set of problems altogether, hehe. First layer was fine, second layer w
  4. Hi @Torgeir - Thank you for your reply. Just to comment on your questions: I printed with Fiberlogy TPE. The printing profile is similar to PLA on Ultimaker printing at ±210C. Only major difference is retraction is disabled. How can I confirm this? As I mentioned, when set to 110% flow rate, the large flat print looks good. This ons is easy enough to conform, Indeed it is working 🙂 This is the one I am scare of even though it is fairly new. I upgrade to the 2+ using the kit and have printed maybe
  5. Hi - Lately I have been facing a challenge with what seems to be, under-extrusion. From what I can recall, it started after I have been printing with TPE for a while and had to open the extrude to remove stuck filament. I have attached a photo of my current print. It is a large flat part so the gaps between the print lines are quite obvious from layer 2 onwards. My current settings are: Printer: UM2+ Filament: PLA (Spidermaker, Ultimaker or Fiberlogy) Print temperature: 210 Bed: 60C Extrusion 100% (as per Ultimaker PLA profile) Fan Spe
  6. @geert_2 - haha, I get it... I used to drive a manual car, but since moving to Cape Town (hectic dead-lock traffic) I switched to Automatic 🙂 Thanks for all the tips, I will adjust my first layer to 0.2mm and see. Might be my saving grace. EDIT: Never mind, I suppose it is printing that sections as support, not infill 🙈 Off topic, hope you don't mind; My Cura started behaving suspicious, for some reason, the infill pattern (and density) does not change no matter how I change the settings. See below. I have selected triangles and as you can cl
  7. Hi @geert_2 - Looking at your photo, I could probably raise the bed (or lower the nozzle) a little bit. Having said that, I am using the Ultimaker calibration card that came with the set of Nozzles and there is quite a bit of friction already when pulling the card from under the nozzle. Do you have auto bed-levelling?? I would probably spend my last savings to upgrade even it was only for that purpose 😄 Well, that and Dual Extruders, hehe. The UM2+ was a good way to get started with 3D printing, but for the type of models I print, I can most certainly see the need
  8. Hi @geert_2 - Wow thank you for the comprehensive response. With regards to the brim, I tried printing with one even though I initially thought (due to the large flat surfaces) it wont be needed. The brim produced even worse results. It would not even finish the 8mm brim before it starts curling upwards and lifts off the bed completely 🤯 The concept of free hanging supports are amazing!! Thank you for the tip. You are correct, the bigger parts are printed with the flat surfaces on the bed, this way minimising supports needed. I have been p
  9. @geert_2 - My apologies, I thought the printer info included in the original post would help, I have a lot to learn 🙂 Profile: CURA CPE default profile (also reduced speed and fans by 25% on a second run) Filament: Ultimaker CPE Printer: Ultimaker 2+ Bed Adhesion: Tried both Brim and Skirt Bed Adhesion assistance: Magigoo Bed Temp: 70C Nozzle Temp: 250C Flow: 100% With regards to smaller model, I have printed these successfully. It seems the detachment from the build plate happens 1hour+ into the print.
  10. Hi @geert_2 - I will try disabling the fan completely. I have reduced the fan speed by 35% (off the already reduced speed in the Cura default profile), but have not reduced it to zero. My guess would be around 50% of normal fan speed. On this particular piece it should be a problem as there is no overhang. Ons the other two parts, there are 'roof structures' but I use normal supports for that. Should I still disable the fan? I know I can obviously test these, but those are about 8 hours into the print and with the cost of CPE here locally, so would preferably try
  11. Hi @ScarletImpaler - I realised this thread is darted, but I am going through the forum looking for advice on CPE and stumbled upon your question about @Proto-pasta HTPLA. Coming of the back of a couple of rolls of HTPLA printing on UM2+ I can tell you the following regarding my experience printing: The normal HTPLA printed very similar to PLA. I could switch between profiles seamlessly. UM2+ does not officially even support HTPLA so as far as the printer is concerned, it is printing with PLA. I printed at anything between 205C and 215C with a 0.4mm Nozzle a
  12. Hi - First let me stipulate I am relatively new to 3D printing. I have done my fair share of printing larger and mechanical parts (as R&D is what we do) but I want to apologise in advance if my question is a trivial one and I am simply overlooking something obvious. I have modelled a part in PLA and it is time for printing the prototypes that will be used for field testings. These parts have large flat surfaces, so initially I though bed adhesion should not be a problem, even though I am aware larger flat surfaces can come with their own set of challenges.
  13. Hi @prof_west hhmm... I would have to sit and watch the print for 12 hours to see when this happens and then adjust? 😄 I will try adjusting flow to 95% and see what happens. I will also try to get a picture when it starts forming the ‘bead-like’ droplets. thanks for helping, much appreciated! Been having bed adhesion issues printing with CPE all day, good to have a solution for the PLA print :)
  14. Hi @stan_bulgaria - It seems you have sone a lot of research and testing with CPE. I am sorry I cannot give any advise, but was hoping you could impart some of your knowledge onto me. Like yourself, I have started printing with PLA until such time that my model was finalised and then switched to CPE due to harsh environment this enclosure will be in. This is where my troubles started from the get go... even with a very simple component, I just cannot get all four corners of the part to stick to the bed. I have tried just about everything I could find in t
  15. @prof_west - Thank you for your thorough explanation. I have since been using Gyroid actuality, it seems to be structurally very strong. I also removed the checkbox "Infill before outer walls". These two settings helped a lot and the problems seems not to occur for the most part. I will add the Combing and Z-Hop settings you suggested.. Something else occurs. Refer to the photo attached. You can clearly see the change in surface texture where this start (and sometimes stops). I have paid close attention to during print to try and see what happens.
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