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friedl_basson

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Everything posted by friedl_basson

  1. @geert_2 - Fortunately I have a plexiglass door I made a while back, but the top is still open. I suspect a lot of heat escaped via the top... the while things about hot air rising and all of that πŸ™‚ Yes, winter indeed. To make matters worse, we have a lot of rain in winter (in the Western Cape), so it can be really cold at times.
  2. Thank you for the heads-up πŸ™‚ I also used the drawers for resistors, small ICs and Capacitors.
  3. Hi @UlrichC-DE - I do indeed have the 0.6mm and 0.8mm nozzles, only tried to use them once, but found the layer lines to be 'too visible' for most clients πŸ™‚ I have no idea that 60mm is too fast of 0.4mm nozzle? I found some math in the forum on how to calculate speeds, and it seemed well within the capabilities of the UM2+. I will change these tomorrow and see how it goes. Looking to upgrade to UM3 or S3 soon, so maybe it will improve things a bit πŸ™‚
  4. Great thanks! ugh... 50mm/s?? these enclosures will take all day to print πŸ˜„ ps: Did you try those drawers? I will be printing more this week. Have some components on the way, need to make place to keep them πŸ™‚
  5. Thanks @Smithy - I am printing the PLA at 210C, 100% flow and 60mm/s. I will try printing at 200C and see how it goes, thanks. The sound is not too much of a problem, but I can see the knock-on affect on the outer walls as well. Not the end of the world, but would still prefer to 'fix' if πŸ™‚
  6. @Smithy - Ok, so I built a thermometer posting readings to my phone so I can monitor the temperature. Without covering it with "something" it drops well below 15C inside the chamber. I covered it loosely with a black bag and temperature is hovering around 25C-26C. Prints are working. I do have one nagging problem I have been facing since I can remember. When printing larger parts like the enclosure I am currently printing, everything goes smoothly until I am Β±50% up the side walls. I then start hearing these noises and it seems to be occurring when the nozzle is
  7. @Smithy & @Torgeir - It does look good indeed. I will place an order today, will probably switch the CPE for ASA then, even though the video review on their CPE was very positive. With regards to my layer separation problem on both CPE and PLA the past two days... I think I might have confirmation on the problem... see image attached. Our min temperature today was 3C and max during the day was 6C πŸ₯Ά As I need to print this weekend, I will have to enclose the printer. Will leave the thermometer I made inside to monitor temperatures. Regards, Friedl
  8. HI @Torgeir - Wow thank you, I will most certainly try this. I printed ` couple of time today with PLA and CPE but experienced more layer separation πŸ˜• I cannot believe I have not done this sooner, but eventually grabbed some components and put together a quick thermometer to measure the ambient temperature around the printer. Outside of the printer (later in the day) I measure Β±16C. It is very possible then that the temperature was lower earlier during my prints. I will conform this tomorrow. If your solution works for me as well, I will probably design a cover t
  9. Hi @Smithy - I am looking at Fillamentum range as we 'speak'. They seem to have a large range of aesthetically pleasing filaments in 2.85mm and different materials (ASA, ABS, CPE, PLA). I am getting to the "I HATE CPE" point, quite quickly I might add. If I get it the layers to stick, the details are terrible. If I try to counter that, I get layer separation. Tough PLA seems like a good choice and I have heard good things about it. I do however need some sort of chemical resistance (against Sulphuric acid vapours in particular) so I just went straight for CPE. A
  10. @Dim3nsioneer & @UlrichC-DE - Thank you for the tips. I saw the black bag on YouTube videos πŸ™‚ Was getting desperate when even PLA prints started to delaminate. Seems the cause then is the ambient temperature as it is below 15C indeed. I will have to heat up the room I suppose. Regards, Friedl.
  11. @Smithy- They are printed and they are great indeed. By far the better ones I have found so far. I scaled them to 50% as they are for small components, I have attached them for your convenience πŸ™‚ Maybve scale the drawer 1% more, but depends on your printer I suppose. Regards, Friedl. CUBE_-_Modular_Organiser.zip
  12. Hi @Smithy & @Torgeir - I have tried all three combing settings, turning it drastically increased the print time of this particular part from 5.5hours to almost 8 hours. I am printing again today, will let you know how it goes. Thank you @Smithy really appreciate the help! @Torgeir It is a pleasure, I really hope they work for you too. I am hoping to get cleaner prints today, I really cannot see how people classify this as engineering filament if these are the results. I am getting much more accurate prints from PLA at this stage πŸ˜„ I do need something stronge
  13. Hi - Just thought I'd give an update as I have some moderate success printing with CPE πŸ™‚ I changed the settings as follow: Bed Temp: 75C Print Temp: 260C Speed: 45mm/s Fan Speed: First 5 layers @ 35% and then 65% thereafter Enclosure: Close front Printer: UM2+ Bed Adhesion: Skirt with Magigoo FLEX I am not sure whether it was the change to Magigoo FLEX or the combination of a slight Temp bump and reduced fan speed or maybe even all three. It was quite a large part, about 12 hours print. I have to say, the part
  14. Hi - I have been printing successfully (using PLA, CPE, TPU & TPE) for the past 8 months or so and have never experienced delimitation before, let alone while printing with PLA. I have had warping of CPE parts (pulling off the bed) but PLA has been straight forward a trouble free... so far. I read through a couple of posts, the seem quite dated so it seems everyone else has figure this out but me πŸ™‚ It is the first winter since owning the UM2+, so I am trying to figure out whether ambient temperature could be playing a part. It has been quite cold lately (7-10C).
  15. Hi - Ok, I managed to "solve" CPE warping off the bed by reducing the model size... kind of besides the point but at least it is a start. I also use Magigoo Flex as apposed to the standard one. This now presented a new problem. Even though the print seems acceptable, it is about as watertight a your average garden sprinkler πŸ™ˆ My first guess would be that the layers aren't fusing properly. I am using the standard Cura settings at this stage. The bed as level as you can get it, the same print with PLA hold water perfectly, even under some pressure. I will
  16. Hi - Just an update (and my apologies for the late response): Just to be clear, the filament was stuck in the feeder, not extruder. Nevertheless, I manage to find the problem. Upon the reassembly of the feeder, I did not install the tension screw correctly hence resulting in very little traction on the filament. I reinstalled the screw properly and like magic, all problems seem to be a thing of the past. Well, all but my CPE woes... they seem to be never ending πŸ˜„ Kind Regards, Friedl
  17. Hi @stan_bulgaria - No problem. I am not on the forum often either and for some reason I do not get emails when someone replies to a topis I posted. Thank you for all the information. I will try again... and again... and again (it seems, haha). If I indeed find a successful set of settings, I will be sure to post them here. I know one thing, it is for sure not the settings that appears on the label of the CPE product πŸ˜„ Just with regards to bed-adhesion, I use Magigoo and not even that could get the part to stick. Many thanks! Friedl
  18. Hi @Torgeir - Wow, thank you for the thorough explanation, it is much appreciated. Just for more reference, I am using to original Ultimaker nozzles only. I received a set with the UM2+ upgrade kit I purchased. For now, PLA seems to be printing fine at 220C so I will stick to this until the current project is over. I will then be able to afford some downtime on the printer πŸ™‚ I ma trying to print a functional prototype for the client now using CPE which seems to be a whole different set of problems altogether, hehe. First layer was fine, second layer w
  19. Hi @Torgeir - Thank you for your reply. Just to comment on your questions: I printed with Fiberlogy TPE. The printing profile is similar to PLA on Ultimaker printing at Β±210C. Only major difference is retraction is disabled. How can I confirm this? As I mentioned, when set to 110% flow rate, the large flat print looks good. This ons is easy enough to conform, Indeed it is working πŸ™‚ This is the one I am scare of even though it is fairly new. I upgrade to the 2+ using the kit and have printed maybe
  20. Hi - Lately I have been facing a challenge with what seems to be, under-extrusion. From what I can recall, it started after I have been printing with TPE for a while and had to open the extrude to remove stuck filament. I have attached a photo of my current print. It is a large flat part so the gaps between the print lines are quite obvious from layer 2 onwards. My current settings are: Printer: UM2+ Filament: PLA (Spidermaker, Ultimaker or Fiberlogy) Print temperature: 210 Bed: 60C Extrusion 100% (as per Ultimaker PLA profile) Fan Spe
  21. @geert_2 - haha, I get it... I used to drive a manual car, but since moving to Cape Town (hectic dead-lock traffic) I switched to Automatic πŸ™‚ Thanks for all the tips, I will adjust my first layer to 0.2mm and see. Might be my saving grace. EDIT: Never mind, I suppose it is printing that sections as support, not infill πŸ™ˆ Off topic, hope you don't mind; My Cura started behaving suspicious, for some reason, the infill pattern (and density) does not change no matter how I change the settings. See below. I have selected triangles and as you can cl
  22. Hi @geert_2 - Looking at your photo, I could probably raise the bed (or lower the nozzle) a little bit. Having said that, I am using the Ultimaker calibration card that came with the set of Nozzles and there is quite a bit of friction already when pulling the card from under the nozzle. Do you have auto bed-levelling?? I would probably spend my last savings to upgrade even it was only for that purpose πŸ˜„ Well, that and Dual Extruders, hehe. The UM2+ was a good way to get started with 3D printing, but for the type of models I print, I can most certainly see the need
  23. Hi @geert_2 - Wow thank you for the comprehensive response. With regards to the brim, I tried printing with one even though I initially thought (due to the large flat surfaces) it wont be needed. The brim produced even worse results. It would not even finish the 8mm brim before it starts curling upwards and lifts off the bed completely 🀯 The concept of free hanging supports are amazing!! Thank you for the tip. You are correct, the bigger parts are printed with the flat surfaces on the bed, this way minimising supports needed. I have been p
  24. @geert_2 - My apologies, I thought the printer info included in the original post would help, I have a lot to learn πŸ™‚ Profile: CURA CPE default profile (also reduced speed and fans by 25% on a second run) Filament: Ultimaker CPE Printer: Ultimaker 2+ Bed Adhesion: Tried both Brim and Skirt Bed Adhesion assistance: Magigoo Bed Temp: 70C Nozzle Temp: 250C Flow: 100% With regards to smaller model, I have printed these successfully. It seems the detachment from the build plate happens 1hour+ into the print.
  25. Hi @geert_2 - I will try disabling the fan completely. I have reduced the fan speed by 35% (off the already reduced speed in the Cura default profile), but have not reduced it to zero. My guess would be around 50% of normal fan speed. On this particular piece it should be a problem as there is no overhang. Ons the other two parts, there are 'roof structures' but I use normal supports for that. Should I still disable the fan? I know I can obviously test these, but those are about 8 hours into the print and with the cost of CPE here locally, so would preferably try
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