Jump to content

friedl_basson

Member
  • Posts

    64
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by friedl_basson

  1. Hi @Smithy - I am looking at Fillamentum range as we 'speak'. They seem to have a large range of aesthetically pleasing filaments in 2.85mm and different materials (ASA, ABS, CPE, PLA). I am getting to the "I HATE CPE" point, quite quickly I might add. If I get it the layers to stick, the details are terrible. If I try to counter that, I get layer separation. Tough PLA seems like a good choice and I have heard good things about it. I do however need some sort of chemical resistance (against Sulphuric acid vapours in particular) so I just went straight for CPE. According to Wikipedia, ASA does present some characteristics that makes it chemically resistant. Maybe upgrading form 2+ to UM3 or UM5 wont hurt either, but here they are quite expensive. Regards, Friedl.
  2. @Dim3nsioneer & @UlrichC-DE - Thank you for the tips. I saw the black bag on YouTube videos πŸ™‚ Was getting desperate when even PLA prints started to delaminate. Seems the cause then is the ambient temperature as it is below 15C indeed. I will have to heat up the room I suppose. Regards, Friedl.
  3. @Smithy- They are printed and they are great indeed. By far the better ones I have found so far. I scaled them to 50% as they are for small components, I have attached them for your convenience πŸ™‚ Maybve scale the drawer 1% more, but depends on your printer I suppose. Regards, Friedl. CUBE_-_Modular_Organiser.zip
  4. Hi @Smithy & @Torgeir - I have tried all three combing settings, turning it drastically increased the print time of this particular part from 5.5hours to almost 8 hours. I am printing again today, will let you know how it goes. Thank you @Smithy really appreciate the help! @Torgeir It is a pleasure, I really hope they work for you too. I am hoping to get cleaner prints today, I really cannot see how people classify this as engineering filament if these are the results. I am getting much more accurate prints from PLA at this stage πŸ˜„ I do need something stronger though, so not ready to give up yet. All else fails, I will probably look at ASA as an alternative. I am also baking my filament now before I print again, hopefully this helps with cleaner prints. Best of luck and thanks again!! Friedl
  5. Hi - Just thought I'd give an update as I have some moderate success printing with CPE πŸ™‚ I changed the settings as follow: Bed Temp: 75C Print Temp: 260C Speed: 45mm/s Fan Speed: First 5 layers @ 35% and then 65% thereafter Enclosure: Close front Printer: UM2+ Bed Adhesion: Skirt with Magigoo FLEX I am not sure whether it was the change to Magigoo FLEX or the combination of a slight Temp bump and reduced fan speed or maybe even all three. It was quite a large part, about 12 hours print. I have to say, the part did not look as great as I have heard people claim CPE can deliver, but at least it stuck to the bed. So there is that... πŸ˜„ Regards, Friedl
  6. Hi - I have been printing successfully (using PLA, CPE, TPU & TPE) for the past 8 months or so and have never experienced delimitation before, let alone while printing with PLA. I have had warping of CPE parts (pulling off the bed) but PLA has been straight forward a trouble free... so far. I read through a couple of posts, the seem quite dated so it seems everyone else has figure this out but me πŸ™‚ It is the first winter since owning the UM2+, so I am trying to figure out whether ambient temperature could be playing a part. It has been quite cold lately (7-10C). I do however have a custom Plexiglass lid in the front of my printer, but not is not enclosed on the top. My basic settings are: Print Temp: 210C Bed Temp: 60C Layer Height: 0.15mm Speed: 60mm Cooling Fan : 85% (started at 100% but reduced it in an effort to stop the delaminating) I attached a picture of the parts. I also included a picture of the first layer printing, it seems bed is levelled just fine. I have had some success printing with a draft shield, which made me wonder if it is now better controlling the heat around the model. Hope someone can help. Regards, Friedl.
  7. Hi - Ok, I managed to "solve" CPE warping off the bed by reducing the model size... kind of besides the point but at least it is a start. I also use Magigoo Flex as apposed to the standard one. This now presented a new problem. Even though the print seems acceptable, it is about as watertight a your average garden sprinkler πŸ™ˆ My first guess would be that the layers aren't fusing properly. I am using the standard Cura settings at this stage. The bed as level as you can get it, the same print with PLA hold water perfectly, even under some pressure. I will try increasing print temp and reducing fan speed to see whether this help. REALLY not enjoying CPE a whole lot at this stage 😒 Regards, Friedl.
  8. Hi - Just an update (and my apologies for the late response): Just to be clear, the filament was stuck in the feeder, not extruder. Nevertheless, I manage to find the problem. Upon the reassembly of the feeder, I did not install the tension screw correctly hence resulting in very little traction on the filament. I reinstalled the screw properly and like magic, all problems seem to be a thing of the past. Well, all but my CPE woes... they seem to be never ending πŸ˜„ Kind Regards, Friedl
  9. Hi @stan_bulgaria - No problem. I am not on the forum often either and for some reason I do not get emails when someone replies to a topis I posted. Thank you for all the information. I will try again... and again... and again (it seems, haha). If I indeed find a successful set of settings, I will be sure to post them here. I know one thing, it is for sure not the settings that appears on the label of the CPE product πŸ˜„ Just with regards to bed-adhesion, I use Magigoo and not even that could get the part to stick. Many thanks! Friedl
  10. Hi @Torgeir - Wow, thank you for the thorough explanation, it is much appreciated. Just for more reference, I am using to original Ultimaker nozzles only. I received a set with the UM2+ upgrade kit I purchased. For now, PLA seems to be printing fine at 220C so I will stick to this until the current project is over. I will then be able to afford some downtime on the printer πŸ™‚ I ma trying to print a functional prototype for the client now using CPE which seems to be a whole different set of problems altogether, hehe. First layer was fine, second layer was a complete mess, see attached. I will browse the forum to see if there are any tips on printing with CPE. Thank you again for your help! Kind Regards, Friedl!
  11. Hi @Torgeir - Thank you for your reply. Just to comment on your questions: I printed with Fiberlogy TPE. The printing profile is similar to PLA on Ultimaker printing at Β±210C. Only major difference is retraction is disabled. How can I confirm this? As I mentioned, when set to 110% flow rate, the large flat print looks good. This ons is easy enough to conform, Indeed it is working πŸ™‚ This is the one I am scare of even though it is fairly new. I upgrade to the 2+ using the kit and have printed maybe 3 full spools since then. With the last nozzle change it was more difficult to get tge nozzle in. I am not sure whether some melted material got in the way. Maybe best to send the printer to the agents as soon as possible, Many Thanks! Friedl
  12. Hi - Lately I have been facing a challenge with what seems to be, under-extrusion. From what I can recall, it started after I have been printing with TPE for a while and had to open the extrude to remove stuck filament. I have attached a photo of my current print. It is a large flat part so the gaps between the print lines are quite obvious from layer 2 onwards. My current settings are: Printer: UM2+ Filament: PLA (Spidermaker, Ultimaker or Fiberlogy) Print temperature: 210 Bed: 60C Extrusion 100% (as per Ultimaker PLA profile) Fan Speed: 100% (as per Ultimaker PLA profile) Layer hight: 0.15mm Speed: 60mm/s First layer: Concentric following layers: Lines My current work-around for this problem is pushing print temperature up to 220C and flow rate to 110%. My concern is just that this has never been necessary before and for the life me me, I cannot figure out what the problem is. I was hoping to resolve this without having to send the printer to the agents which is 1600km away and I have urgent prototype prints that need to go out. I cannot afford to be without the printer for two weeks. In the meantime, I purchased a new nozzle, I am hoping this will resolve the problem even though not very hopeful. I am assuming it is not bed levelling as the first layer was perfect, printed with Concentric setting. Would appreciate some help πŸ™‚ Kind Regards Friedl.
  13. @geert_2 - haha, I get it... I used to drive a manual car, but since moving to Cape Town (hectic dead-lock traffic) I switched to Automatic πŸ™‚ Thanks for all the tips, I will adjust my first layer to 0.2mm and see. Might be my saving grace. EDIT: Never mind, I suppose it is printing that sections as support, not infill πŸ™ˆ Off topic, hope you don't mind; My Cura started behaving suspicious, for some reason, the infill pattern (and density) does not change no matter how I change the settings. See below. I have selected triangles and as you can clearly see... the infill is not Triangles. No matter what Is et it to, or even to 100% infill, this is the result?? Any idea what causes this?
  14. Hi @geert_2 - Looking at your photo, I could probably raise the bed (or lower the nozzle) a little bit. Having said that, I am using the Ultimaker calibration card that came with the set of Nozzles and there is quite a bit of friction already when pulling the card from under the nozzle. Do you have auto bed-levelling?? I would probably spend my last savings to upgrade even it was only for that purpose πŸ˜„ Well, that and Dual Extruders, hehe. The UM2+ was a good way to get started with 3D printing, but for the type of models I print, I can most certainly see the need for the second extruder, whether it being a different colour or dissolvable support. At the moment the only way for me to achieve dual colours, is to emboss on the one part and then phically print out the same as a new part. Then try to insert into the embossed area. As you can see in the image, this does not always go according to plan, even with 0.25mm nozzle πŸ™ˆ Thanks again for all the effort. I have done a couple of PLA models of our enclosure again to make sure everything is the way it should be. Will probably attempt a CPE print then tomorrow as they are quite lengthy prints (8 hours top and bottom each). Regards, Friedl.
  15. Hi @geert_2 - Wow thank you for the comprehensive response. With regards to the brim, I tried printing with one even though I initially thought (due to the large flat surfaces) it wont be needed. The brim produced even worse results. It would not even finish the 8mm brim before it starts curling upwards and lifts off the bed completely 🀯 The concept of free hanging supports are amazing!! Thank you for the tip. You are correct, the bigger parts are printed with the flat surfaces on the bed, this way minimising supports needed. I have been printing the supports for the 'screw flanges' with break away supports, using PLA they came away easy as well. Have not gotten this far with CPE as I first need to get all corners of the part to stick and not curl up. The strange part is that is was the very same corner that warped and pulled away from the build plate, regardless of the orientation or placement of the part. I might al rig a small probe to test the actual bed temp and look for any inconstancies. For now I just need to get one prototype out, preferably not with PLA πŸ˜„ Kind Regards, Friedl.
  16. @geert_2 - My apologies, I thought the printer info included in the original post would help, I have a lot to learn πŸ™‚ Profile: CURA CPE default profile (also reduced speed and fans by 25% on a second run) Filament: Ultimaker CPE Printer: Ultimaker 2+ Bed Adhesion: Tried both Brim and Skirt Bed Adhesion assistance: Magigoo Bed Temp: 70C Nozzle Temp: 250C Flow: 100% With regards to smaller model, I have printed these successfully. It seems the detachment from the build plate happens 1hour+ into the print. I will follow you advice, reduce fan speeds and increase bed temp to 80C then. I will print the part sent previously first as it is the simplest one and was the one giving problems. If successful, I will attempt the more complex models. Thank you for your advice, I will post my results πŸ˜‰ I have attached screen grabs of the the two main pieces and the assembled unit. Regards, Friedl.
  17. Hi @geert_2 - I will try disabling the fan completely. I have reduced the fan speed by 35% (off the already reduced speed in the Cura default profile), but have not reduced it to zero. My guess would be around 50% of normal fan speed. On this particular piece it should be a problem as there is no overhang. Ons the other two parts, there are 'roof structures' but I use normal supports for that. Should I still disable the fan? I know I can obviously test these, but those are about 8 hours into the print and with the cost of CPE here locally, so would preferably try to avoid any misprints if possible πŸ™‚ Kind Regards, Friedl.
  18. Hi @ScarletImpaler - I realised this thread is darted, but I am going through the forum looking for advice on CPE and stumbled upon your question about @Proto-pasta HTPLA. Coming of the back of a couple of rolls of HTPLA printing on UM2+ I can tell you the following regarding my experience printing: The normal HTPLA printed very similar to PLA. I could switch between profiles seamlessly. UM2+ does not officially even support HTPLA so as far as the printer is concerned, it is printing with PLA. I printed at anything between 205C and 215C with a 0.4mm Nozzle at either 0.15mm or 0.1mm layer height. I had less luck printing with Matt Fibre HTPLA. Here I encountered quite a bit of stringing and for the most of is, thin walls was a lot more brittle than normal PLA/HTPLA. Stringing became better with flow rates of around 90%-95% Heated bed - 60C Used Magigoo I never pushed nozzle temp up to 260C... even at 235C it was simply free flowing out of the nozzle making for terrible looking prints. In fact, I much prefer printing with Proto-Pasta HTPLA as apposed to normal Proto-Pasta PLA. Attached picture of and enclosure base printed with Joel's Proto-Pasta Hight Five Blue HTPLA. Came out way better than any of the normal PLA prints. Hope you managed to resolve you issue, if not, maybe these can help. Also, please note, these are my experiences with Proto-Pasta HTPLA, by on means am I suggesting these are law πŸ™‚ Best of luck. Friedl.
  19. Hi - First let me stipulate I am relatively new to 3D printing. I have done my fair share of printing larger and mechanical parts (as R&D is what we do) but I want to apologise in advance if my question is a trivial one and I am simply overlooking something obvious. I have modelled a part in PLA and it is time for printing the prototypes that will be used for field testings. These parts have large flat surfaces, so initially I though bed adhesion should not be a problem, even though I am aware larger flat surfaces can come with their own set of challenges. I started with the smallest of the parts, Β±22mm x Β±100mm x 70mm footprint, a simple bucket shaped object. I always start with with the default Cura profiles, MAYBE altering wall, bottom and top thickness, but that is it. The rest I leave as it is. The first print started fine, but about 1 hour into the print, the far right corner lifted from the build plate. From there things just got worse. My Settings: Profile: CURA CPE default profile (also reduced speed and fans by 25% on a second run) Filament: Ultimaker CPE Printer: Ultimaker 2+ Bed Adhesion: Tried both Brim and Skirt Bed Adhesion assistance: Magigoo Bed Temp: 70C Nozzle Temp: 250C Flow: 100% After tge first failed print, I cleaned the bed with water, wiped clean again with Isopropyl and then added fresh coat of Magigoo. Results was even worse. Could not get the brim to stick even. Levelled the bed again (even closer to the nozzle). Again Brim would not stick. Wiped the Bed again with water, added another fresh coat of Magigoo. Changed brim to skirt. At least this way the print starts, but as with the first attempt, the far right corner warped and lifted from the bed after about an hour. I then enclosed the front, reorientated the print by turning it 90deg and cleaned the nozzle (atomic method). Same result unfortunately. Just to make sure the bed was level, I switched to PLA again... printed perfectly. Attached is an image of the very simple part I am trying to print. Would really appreciate some help. At wits end here... Regards, Friedl.
  20. Hi @prof_west hhmm... I would have to sit and watch the print for 12 hours to see when this happens and then adjust? πŸ˜„ I will try adjusting flow to 95% and see what happens. I will also try to get a picture when it starts forming the β€˜bead-like’ droplets. thanks for helping, much appreciated! Been having bed adhesion issues printing with CPE all day, good to have a solution for the PLA print :)
  21. Hi @stan_bulgaria - It seems you have sone a lot of research and testing with CPE. I am sorry I cannot give any advise, but was hoping you could impart some of your knowledge onto me. Like yourself, I have started printing with PLA until such time that my model was finalised and then switched to CPE due to harsh environment this enclosure will be in. This is where my troubles started from the get go... even with a very simple component, I just cannot get all four corners of the part to stick to the bed. I have tried just about everything I could find in the forum, but no luck. In a desperate attempt I have now switched the orientation of the part as the model was constantly warping on the far right corner. Even if this work, it wont solve my problem as other parts of this model are much larger and more complex. Funny enough, I have had the worst results using BRIM. I could not even finish printing the brim without it detaching form the build plate. My current settings are: Filament: Ultimaker CPE Printer: UM2+ Nozzle: 0.4mm Layer height: 0.15mm Temp: 250C Bed Temp: 70C Flow: 100% Fans: 50% Adhesion: Using Magigoo and heated bed Enclosed front (have also tried open) For my latest attempt (still printing) I have cleaned the nozzle, cleaned the bed with Isopropyl and then added fresh coat of Magigoo. Also levelled the bed (AGAIN). It seems to warp about 1 hour into the print. Kind Regards, Friedl.
  22. @prof_west - Thank you for your thorough explanation. I have since been using Gyroid actuality, it seems to be structurally very strong. I also removed the checkbox "Infill before outer walls". These two settings helped a lot and the problems seems not to occur for the most part. I will add the Combing and Z-Hop settings you suggested.. Something else occurs. Refer to the photo attached. You can clearly see the change in surface texture where this start (and sometimes stops). I have paid close attention to during print to try and see what happens. This is due to the nozzle dispensing little "droplets" of filament on the shell wall when travelling to another position. When it then passes over these "droplets/beads" you can clearly hear and see the build plate vibrating. Hopefully Z-Hop fill take car of this. I might also be my imagination, but it seem to occur more frequently with a particular brand of filament. OR it might be simply sue to the fact that I am using a lot more of this filament as we have plenty in stock - lol Thanks again!! Kind Regards, Friedl.
  23. Hi - I followed this and almost thought I managed to get it working but my excitement was short lived. I have two issues, as they are intermitted I can only assume they are bugs; 1.) After adding support blockers (either to block support, generate support and custom define settings for certain area) preview is not available from time to time. The only 'consistency' I could find in this glitch was that this occurred whenever custom supports are added in the PREPARE MODE before slicing and preview. My workaround: Open model Slice model PREVIEW model While in PREVIEW mode, add support. Now when slicing again, changes are visible and PREVIEW works. 2.) After adding the first custom support, the new object is 'clickable' and can be moved using the Mouse/Trackpad. After adding a SECOND support blocker, the objects can only be selected in the object list. The major concern here is that yu can no longer move the object with the mouse/trackpad. You can manually enter co-ordinates. This is kind of besides the point as no changed settings seems to have an affect (from the second model onwards) which is clearly visible when slicing and preview. My workaround (Sadly the only thing I could find to work): As per above Add support blocker (for what ever purpose) Change settings as required Slice. Save File. Quit Cura Relaunch Cura and open using "import models" Add second support blocker and repeat process. .... Live, Die, Repeat..... πŸ˜• Hope someone else has a better solution (or can tell me I am utterly stupid and doing something very obvious very wrong) to these bugs... quite annoying to be honest. Kind Regards, Friedl. (Cura 4.8.0 on OSx)
  24. Hi - Where is this feature, I have been searching in Cura but no luck. I am having problems with the nozzle hitting the infill about 5 hours into prints. Was hoping this might help. Regards, Friedl.
  25. You just made my day!!! I was going crazy having to save and reopen each time I add a second object. Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...