my3DBr

With Klipper everything is possible.

Hello all. Can I power a second board like a makerbase robin using the Ultiboard?

Hello all. Thank you for everything, it everything running. Now I wish to turn off hotend fan below 60C and install a second MCU (a Makerbase robin e3d 2209 drivers) for the mecanical parts (X, Y, Z, extruder) so I can get all the advantages of modern drivers without leaving the PT100 sensors uncovered. I can't find a cfg that correctly works to turn off the hotend fan and can't find a way of powering the second board using de ultiboard. Any suggestion?

Later is better then never. it is so because you are givin too much pressure on the spring. The bed is hitting the wire contact housing at the corner left back.

Hello, how are you… I know I’m late, but, what nobody ever talked about and I think is the more important: what about flow?

This very problem occurs without klipper. Some people try to manage this with overlap percentage

https://biqu.equipment/collections/control-board/products/bigtreetech-tango-v1-0-motherboard-upgrade-on-the-basis-of-rumba-control-board-for-3d-printer Is it a possible ultiboard replacement? Furthermore, aside de pt100 thermistors, once you get rid of them, the obvious way is to replace the original board for any market board like BTTs or else and use Klipper.

I don’t know….

https://biqu.equipment/collections/control-board/products/bigtreetech-tango-v1-0-motherboard-upgrade-on-the-basis-of-rumba-control-board-for-3d-printer is it possible to be used?

It inverted de X or Y axis by itself. It happened to me sometimes...

Cura 5.1 works in Catalina 10.15. Any Cura beyond that (5.1.1 and above) is not working. It is bad...

As far as I know the project is not maintained anymore. I use the latest version v19. Sometimes in the middle of the print it stops the print, remove the filament, put it back again and then resume. I use a 40w heater cartridge.

You have to make a bezel in the inner wall of the bowden tube - the part that fits inside de feeder, normally 60°, using a specific tool or manually with a razor.

The stepper motor bearing. I ordered the same product number from Pololu but the shaft has a different size (don’t know why). Then I opened the stepper motors and swapped the bearings.

I seriously thought about printing the DDG case and using the internals but never found the files ou STL

I am almost 3 years now using my upgraded UM2 - Bondtech DDG with spacer adapter and printed gear, 3dsolex kit and Teflon adapter and ring, 40w heat cartridge. Ultimately using petg, 245 temp in nozzle. along this period strange things happening, way more than happiness. Heat block and feeder were upgraded at the same time, what brought some confusing data. Heat block: -leaking was an eternal issue, only recently solved with thermal paste (never used before). -never achieved the alleged “minus 10 degrees when printing at normal speed”. -the block won’t accept other nozzles than 3D solex ones -it is essentially impossible to print something nice with larger width line than nozzle size. feeder -since the first time installed it emitted some cracking noises. It was not the skipping steps from stepper motor. there are some space tolerances that leads to the gears stop connecting to each other what causes the horrible noise. certainly there is some increasing pressure in the system, which can only be targeted to the heat block - now bondtech has launched a similar type os nozzle tech, with a huge difference: the hollow size is way bigger and there are 3 big spaces, contrary to the 3D solex wick resembles a real wall with only 2 little holes. Getting back to the feeder, it’s unacceptable a feeder give in before the stepper motor. Now I have to make a change - or two - to make some tests. Getting both upgrade living in Brazil is already a madness. Way expensive, impossible to sell or send back. The possibility of not being able to use both is a massacre to the soul. Anyone here could help me?

Why not design a fun duct for a 5v centrifugal fan that stands upright at the Back?

CHt nozzles have some success as it seems…

I still have a significant leak of plastic in the junction nozzle/block from 3D solex. Have read somewhere that this is because of the plating. Now I am reading around social networks some people saying they had problems with the print due to the matchless nozzle. I am starting to think maybe I spent some money wrong. Will compare print with other nozzles.

Hello everyone. I have news! My printer had a Achilles heel: I never ever thought about changing the heater cartridge...it was the old original, 25W if I am not wrong. It happens I am a often customer from AliExpress and had a 40W heater lying around. Here comes the story: as you can imagine this is not a 3DSolex or other know brand, so I had two problems: it was short for the Extended version AND the cartridge is skinnier (0.1mm) then the original - the hole in the heater block is 5mm, the good quality cartridge 4.9mm, the Chinese 4.8mm (I've read that it is proposital since Chinese or second quality blocks have problems with accuracies). So I had to sold wires (from another cheap cartridge) and do a little smashing with pliers so it deforms a little bit. Then I've put some thermal paste to fill the gap and voialà, all set. Everything working grate! PID tuning and some stress tests, no extruder skipping, everything good! I went searching all again for good quality heater cartridges and had the same problem, even on first line sellers: they don't tell the wire length. How to know if it fits the Extended version? Send some emails around to see what happens. I went back to AliExpress and finally found PT100 thermostat AND 40W heaters with 1.5m long cables. Just bought them.

Hello everyone. I have news! My printer had a Achilles heel: I never ever thought about changing the heater cartridge...it was the old original, 25W if I am not wrong. It happens I am a often customer from AliExpress and had a 40W heater lying around. Here comes the story: as you can imagine this is not a 3DSolex or other know brand, so I had two problems: it was short for the Extended version AND the cartridge is skinnier (0.1mm) then the original - the hole in the heater block is 5mm, the good quality cartridge 4.9mm, the Chinese 4.8mm (I've read that it is proposital since Chinese or second quality blocks have problems with accuracies). So I had to sold wires (from another cheap cartridge) and do a little smashing with pliers so it deforms a little bit. Then I've put some thermal paste to fill the gap and voialà, all set. Everything working grate! PID tuning and some stress tests, no extruder skipping, everything good! I went searching all again for good quality heater cartridges and had the same problem, even on first line sellers: they don't tell the wire length. How to know if it fits the Extended version? Send some emails around to see what happens.

That is wonderful!

Hello Raymon! Any chance having a step by step?

Oh yes, I noted rsrsrs

Hahahaha welcome to Ravenloft. I've just printed some hollow cubes, 1 to 4 walls. Line width 0,8. The 1 wall cube came perfect, walls with the right width, no skipping steps. But, in 4 walled cubes, the internal wall come out with 0.5mm - they are so spread that is possible to pinch the pachymeter inside. I was reading and article about flow in 3d printing (5Axes-calibration shapes) to have some idea of what you were talking about earlier. Well I just can't understand why it is happening. Doing some thinking about this 200% size of nozzle Stephan's video, maybe I have to remember in which printer he did it. In a volcano with a orbiter maybe, so, its different. I thought I could cope near if spending some money with Bondtech extruder, 3dsolex heat block and nozzle...but maybe you were right from the beginning. Holy damn, my ultimaker is not even possible of printing a square square. I am struggling for 2 years now, revised it entirely, opened so many discussion around here, and no, no square cubes. It always the same deviation - X 20.22mm Y20.59mm. I am tired.