Mechatron127

Hi, For those interested, I have heated the attic with a small electrical heater prior to printing and now it seems to be fine again. What I did: - cut the plus wire in the USB cable - mounted the PSU from my other Ender - put an ELCO between the PSU and mainboard - removed the SD-card (bco Le Potato) - checked the tightening of the screws on the mainboard - changed the extension cord to the printer All didn't help - heated the attic EDIT: still crashed

Hi All, (I hope this is the right place to put my question in) I have a Libre Le Potato SBC running OctoPrint on my Ender 3 Pro 3D printer. After not using the printer for a month or 2 I started using it again 2 weeks ago. Now I have the issue that the printer randomly reboots during a print, this didn't happen ever before the last two weeks. I have put a 4700 pF elco between the power supply and the mainboard. But this seems to be symptom management and I don't like that (and I don't even know if this solves the issure and/or introduces new issues) What I noticed is that when I shut off the printer but not the SBC the SBC still powers the mainboard of the printer. Very weakly but still. Could there be an issue caused by the fact that the mainboard is now powered by the printer's own power supply AND the SBC? If so, the question is: Is there a way to shut down the power to the 4 USB ports on the SBC? Either in Raspian or OctoPrint? (So not the USB power to power the SBC itself but the power to the SBC's peripherals) Otherwise I need to perform surgery on the USB cable between the SBC and the printer's mainboard by cutting the plus wire in it. Thanks, Leo

In the 7th line there is this comment: ;MINZ:0.2 (which is equal to the actual Z-error) Looks like there is a wrong setting somewhere in Cura about the minimum Z-height. I found this vid on YT that might solve your issue.

I have no idea but the question that comes to mind is if your part is on the build surface in your slicer?

Hi, I have started printing with PETG a while ago and had a lot of issues with the printer I bought for that. Overextrusion, play on the X- and Y-axis wrong bed leveling but all that seems to be solved now. In a print that is currently being printed I noticed a strange buildup of material in one of the eight 4mm holes, see picture. The 4mm hole is below the 11,5mm hole that has a very descent quality. Further to the right is another 4mm hole that is good. Yesterday this also happened in another print on a different location of the bed, different brand filament also. This grey filament is from PolyMaker, the filament from the other print is Jupiter, that is the house brand of the store I buy most of my printing supplies (123-3D print). Does anybody know what can cause this issue? It seems like a very local adhesion issue to me. Is this a known thing, I call it a fatty hole because it looks a bit greasy. In this case it is not a real issue functionally, at that position the part is mainly a spacer, so I will continue the print, had it been the hole on the right it would have been a real issue and the print would have had to be aborted. Background info, the nozzle is dirty bco all the tries and overextrusion from the past. Only thing I can think of now is that there is some gunk from that deposited on this location causing bad adhesion and causing the following (next layers) issues but that is a guess, after this print I will either clean the outside of the nozzle or replace just to be sure. Kr, Leo

Hi, I have tried but I cannot see any difference in position of the print on the bed.

Thanks, I will try that and respond. (printer is now printing a big part so will take some time)

Hi, I'm printing a part with a big surface, it almost takes the entire build plate. In Cura I have centered the part by sight. On the printer however the part is slightly offset to the right, on the left there is a 5mm gap and on the right the outer line of the brim is printed just besides the build plate. The goal is to offset the "Y-zero position" of the print head by 2,5mm to the left. How should I do this in Cura? Kr, Leo

Could this be a result of a badly PID-tuned hot-end? So the layers are printed at different filament temperatures causing uneven cooling/shrinkage over the layers? I have no idea why the base would be good like it is now but I saw something like this once and that was solved by a PID-tune of the hot-end.

Hi, Last night I tried to print the base of a case to display my wings on the wall. Unfortunately there are two major printing errors present the part. There is a line on the entire circumference at about 2mm high where the outside dimension is smaller than it should be: There is also a hole at one end in the wall, the material was there but it was present like a blob and could be removed using my nail. (It is located at the nearest point to the camera at the bottom of the part) The printer I used is a Creality Ender 3Pro. PETG: 230 degrees hot-end temp, 70 degrees bed temp. 0.2mm layer height, 5 wall line count, 8 top- bottom layers, 10% infill, 50 mm/s speed 6mm retraction (this could be a thing, should have set that to 4mm), brim The bottom where the badge lies on sits heigher than the "line" at the circumference. What beside wrong retraction value could have caused this and why not over the entire height? Thanks, Leo

Hi all, Today is calibration day over here! I have calibrated my dual extruder to 415 steps/mm. Now with flow set to 85% and horizontal expansion set to 0.05mm the 20x20x20mm test cubes come out pretty decent. The wall thickness varies from 0,39 to 0,4mm and the X- and Y-width is between 19,94 and 20,01mm. The print surface even looks decent also. I have one reoccuring issue, you can see on the bottom right of the cube there is no connection between the bottom layers and the wall. There is a small string of filament where the non adhering slit starts, I have watched it using a magnifying glass, the string is not formed on the initial layer so I think it is the material that should have been where the slit is. What could case this? (I have replaced the PTFE tube and 0,4mm nozzle today with new ones.) KR, Leo PS: Is the flow percentage used to affect the E-calibration like X% times E-steps?

I'm in the process of building a drone from stl-files I bought: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/rc-avatar-scorpion-v2 I'm happy with the results, not perfect but pretty good for a budget printer. Sadly poorly lit because of bad lighting on the attic. Also making a TU4 locomotive used in Ukraine in forestry and peat industry. One of the, if not the, best vid on YT from better days: I have modeled this one myself from observations from vids and pictures found on the internet. It is 1/16th scalish, 52cm long, two motorized trucks from Piko (analog). I have to bend and mount the hand rails and then it's finished. But currently not working on this project. The black pieces on the right are two flat bed rail cars used for tree trunks, still to be finished (actually, I can't find them anymore so I will have to reprint them I think) I'm in the process of designing a semi scale version of the Zenith STOL CH701 plane to partially print to be flown as an RC plane. I have downloaded and printed a couple of chain saws to go with it: These are the 3 most significant projects of dozens of things I have modeled, downloaded and printed so far. I have printed a lot of things to use in our home.

Hi, Maybe I don't understand it yet but if you forget to save the changes to the current profile and switch to another you have lost the changes for the current profile, you then only have the option to save the changes to the profile you want to enter. I expect to get the option to save the changes to the profile the changes were made in, the option to save it to the profile to be opened for me is of no use. I want to do that manually, if needed, as that gives more control over the changes. I have not discovered the logic in this and thus I still mess up more than once switching profiles which is a real pain. I have for example printed a couple of plastic bearings to tune the horizontal expansion on the in and outside. Now I have lost the values for that and can start over again.

Hi, For my 3D slicing I use only Cura. I have noticed that if I create a couple of profiles and I make changes to profile A and then go to profile B I mess up profile B with changes intended for profile A only. Is there a way to stop this? It's completely unexpected as I don't grasp the logic in this approach and I have lost more than 1 good profiles so far. People forget to save prior to changing profiles so you will either lose the settings in the current profile or mess up the one you are activating. Or is there something I completely miss?

Maybe stupid question, how is your line width setting compared to the nozzle diameter?