marine3D

Here is your chance to buy a fully working Ultimaker 3 (UM3) 3D printer with a number of extras. Included is the unit itself, together with AA0.4, BB0.4 and AA0.24 PrintCores (Nozzles). The bed has been changed to a magnetic flex-plate setup but the original glass bed is included and can easily be refitted. To allow for printing with ABS, ASA or other materials requiring a stable chamber temperature, a front door and hood are included. Lastly, a number of reels of filament is included. Any questions, please ask. Would prefer collection but happy to discuss delivery if nearby.

Any chance the UM3 will also receive the material sync upgrade?

I use a UM3 with a ultistik build plate directly onto the heated bed (without the glass plate) and whilst I've managed to get the bed fairly level, the fact that there are only 3 adjustment points has made it difficult to get truly flat/level surface. With the above tip from @CarloK, it has seemed to make prints behave slightly better, especially with prints on the edges of the bed. I've tweaked the spacing to '50' and reduced the margin values by 10 each (So 30, 5, 5 and 30) and so far so good. Many thanks Carlo for the tip!

It's alive!

Out of curiosity, how does the auto levelling on the S3/5 differ from the UM3? Slightly better sensor board or different levelling process?

Hi @CarloK, thanks for the reply and info. Unfortunately I had a flooded print head so in taking this apart, the pt100 and heater cables had to be sacrificed. Cleaning up the head and core, I see there is no connector/ferrule, just the wire straight onto the core board so one less thing to worry about. Would a Ultimaker reseller be able to actually supply these parts? Would they come to the cut length already with the heat shrink? As you say, if the original wires on the Ultimaker spec are extra flexible, makes sense to stick with those. Many thanks,

Hello, Just wondering, has anyone ever managed to order a replacement heater cartridge and pt100 for the UM3 printcores? The github page seems to list them as part numbers 1996 and 1997. Just wondering if they are supplied cut to length and have the pin connectors already attached? Also, does anyone know if the 25w heater is the same for the 0.6 and 0.8mm cores? Thanks, subBOM Ultimaker Print Core AA 0.4.pdf

Interested in this solution as well

I'm a fan of https://fishyfilaments.com - used fishing nets turned into filament so literally from the ocean (As the original post stated!) but definitely not an easy filament to print with

Not sure about the sendgcode but everything else is correct. I just did mine via USB with the attached file. I haven't noticed any issues with the auto-levelling but that's not to say it might be slightly different per nozzle. Hopefully auto-levelling sorts this (When it works!). And indeed, hats off to @gr5 for the information! aa08.gcode

As a possible alternative use for a worn nozzle, you could change the programming of it to match the new hole diameter, obviously depending how badly worn it is. For example, I had a AA 0.25 print core that had some abrasive filament through it and its now been re-programmed to a AA 0.8 to act as my prototype core and prints exactly the same as an original AA 0.8mm.

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I’m currently using the cc 0.6 without issues. I suppose the risk is that the profiles aren’t tuned for the UM3. Some more info here - https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/8944

Use at your own risk...

For what it's worth - printing with either the BVOH or the standard PVA profiles, the FormFutura BVOH filament seems to print extremely well and very cleanly - Really impressed so thank you for the tips. However, I am still struggling with ASA material (Both FormFutura and Fillamentum brands) bonding to the BVOH support material...