Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

marine3D

Member
  • Content Count

    24
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi @CarloK, thanks for the reply and info. Unfortunately I had a flooded print head so in taking this apart, the pt100 and heater cables had to be sacrificed. Cleaning up the head and core, I see there is no connector/ferrule, just the wire straight onto the core board so one less thing to worry about. Would a Ultimaker reseller be able to actually supply these parts? Would they come to the cut length already with the heat shrink? As you say, if the original wires on the Ultimaker spec are extra flexible, makes sense to stick with those. Many thanks,
  2. Hello, Just wondering, has anyone ever managed to order a replacement heater cartridge and pt100 for the UM3 printcores? The github page seems to list them as part numbers 1996 and 1997. Just wondering if they are supplied cut to length and have the pin connectors already attached? Also, does anyone know if the 25w heater is the same for the 0.6 and 0.8mm cores? Thanks, subBOM Ultimaker Print Core AA 0.4.pdf
  3. I'm a fan of https://fishyfilaments.com - used fishing nets turned into filament so literally from the ocean (As the original post stated!) but definitely not an easy filament to print with
  4. Not sure about the sendgcode but everything else is correct. I just did mine via USB with the attached file. I haven't noticed any issues with the auto-levelling but that's not to say it might be slightly different per nozzle. Hopefully auto-levelling sorts this (When it works!). And indeed, hats off to @gr5 for the information! aa08.gcode
  5. As a possible alternative use for a worn nozzle, you could change the programming of it to match the new hole diameter, obviously depending how badly worn it is. For example, I had a AA 0.25 print core that had some abrasive filament through it and its now been re-programmed to a AA 0.8 to act as my prototype core and prints exactly the same as an original AA 0.8mm.
  6. I’m currently using the cc 0.6 without issues. I suppose the risk is that the profiles aren’t tuned for the UM3. Some more info here - https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/8944
  7. For what it's worth - printing with either the BVOH or the standard PVA profiles, the FormFutura BVOH filament seems to print extremely well and very cleanly - Really impressed so thank you for the tips. However, I am still struggling with ASA material (Both FormFutura and Fillamentum brands) bonding to the BVOH support material...
  8. Hi @Gero, any chance of a link to the files for the adaptors to feed the filament. Nicest ones I’ve seen! Thanks
  9. Hi @Torgeir, Thanks for the info. I think I was resigned to the fact that I would have to replace one of the boards, but I was hoping to pinpoint whether it was the mainboard or the ulticontroller/display board. I've managed to find a discounted kit with next day delivery so fingers crossed.
  10. Hi @tinkergnome, Thanks for the feedback. - No difference with or without the encoder attached. I also tried with the display connected and without (As I believe this is powered off EXP1) but still no difference. - I took the black housings off whilst testing the pinouts/cables. - The connectors can only slide in one way due to the notches on the housings. I ended up putting tape on one connector each end to make sure I wasn't mixing them up (Similar to your photos).
  11. Thanks Torgier, good to know glueing it back might be a possible fix but I can actually get in held in place fairly well with the 4 tabs on the housing, so much so that you can feel the feedback when turning/'clicking in'. However, lets assume this is faulty, would this actually stop the rest of the board loading? I would have thought the display would at least still work and load? And doesn't explain why with EXP1 connected, Cura can't see the board over USB...
×
×
  • Create New...