yetAnotherUsername

Hi all, While printing with Ultimaker ABS using the nearly default CURA 4.11 Engineering Fine settings I am getting zits and blobs on the inside wall only, the outside wall is clean (the only changes to defaults are walls and top/bottoms set to 2mm and infill to cubic subdivision 15%). The printer is enclosed and the doors were closed. The room temperature is a bit high (30 - 31 deg C, but with low humidity - about 30%. PLA prints fine. With the next print (pics attached) I've also reduced the overall print speed (from 30 to 25 mm/s) and enabled coasting in experimental section), but it didn't help. Interestingly the zits and blobs become much more frequent with height (the object I printed nearly took the whole print space of S5), so maybe it is a ambient temperature / cooling problem? By the way, the external surface is not perfect either, some layers are wider than others...?

I've just spent nearly 3h trying to start a print and getting the famous "The difference between height of both print cores exceeds realistic value". Actually it worked the first time, but the print did not succeed due to no filament flow (using original and new Ulitmaker Tough PLA - already has signs of grinding...). The next 30-so times it did not work, mostly failing both heads, sometimes only one (i.e. the bed movement stops a few mm before touching the head). I have cleaned the glass (plus the alu bed below) and the sensor, twice recalibrated the bed z offset, recalibrated the heads switch (pointless for me but was following the instruction from the linked thread), replaced heads multiple times, and finally removed the screws and checked the cables themselves. Nothing has helped, nothing - S5 was still failing the test...! Actually it's the 2nd time this happened to me already (and the printer is seldom used...) but the 1st time it eventually "started to work again". So I decided to check whether is has something to do with the temperature of the head compartment and bingo - after letting it cool down for about 5-10 min it passed the test and started printing! What is really frustrating about this is that I didn't even want to use dual extrusion and yet every time I print the stubborn printer (or its makers) makes me go through the test (even though the 2nd filament is not even loaded). The printer refuses to print without the 2nd head as well (why?!). So in conclusion BUG: nozzle leveling test fails when heads compartment is too warm (so trying to quickly restart a print after a failed test is likely to fail). REQUEST: please allow users to remove the 2nd head and thus not go through the nozzle leveling test for each print. By the way: is it my impression or the nozzle test is done always in the same spot? If so no wander that eventually it fails since the bed gets more and more "dirty" in that spot... Greg P.S. You can test it on your printer: simply abort a print just after the nozzle offset test and then immediately start it again.

It's been roughly 1h since I try to start a simple print on S5. This time the issue is (again...) is the famous nozzle offset test's "difference between height of both print cores exceeds realistic value". I'd say 15 to 20 % of prints do not start for one reason or another (the attempt before current ones the print started but had no filament flowing...). So I now have a habit of staying next to the printer till the print starts (which takes up to 10 min...). By the way - this dual extrusion sensor problem is due to the fact that the printer is stubborn about having both heads installed even though I avoid using dual extrusion (I have only one filament loaded) as much as possible (it works poorly with the water soluble PVA and I don't need it for any other reason). For more issues check here.

Please add this feature - with a warning pop-up if necessary. I've just accidentally started a print in Cura (no warning pop-up here...) before finalizing print settings; I've aborted it straight away but nevertheless I now need to move my but to the printer's location (at work, and I'm at home) just to press a button (well - a touchscreen)... For a 5-6k $/€ printer (S5) that's a pretty huge annoyance.

Well, I have to say I had my share of problems with S5 as well (not pro bundle though): - I sometimes had the 2nd problem, since a while it is working fine. - I got a series of failures during the print prep / offset between heads check - the bed would not go high enough to touch the heads, even tough the bed was properly leveled. It eventually disappeared after many restarts of the printer and head changes back and forth. Maybe it was the bed glass surface being dirty? - w/o the material station, the spools are in the center of back wall, a bit far away from the feeder; some older filaments (non UM though) do break often when being exposed to such a unbending (I had to build a custom spool support just under the feeder to finish some of them). - in spite of many requests here on the forums (since many years) the printer still does not support static IP on ETH; recently we bought a router to provide the printer with a DHCP which is not normally supported in our network (security...). Now the camera preview does not work from Cura nor the printer's website - we need to access it directly on the stream's link. - the camera is out of focus (I haven't seen any dirt or film on it but maybe I need to have a second look) - double extrusion sometimes does not produce good quality prints (even though I use oozing shield and prim tower)... - printing with PVA (by Ultimaker) is a nightmare (even after dehumidifying the filament), but maybe my filament is too old (don't use it often) - I just attempted a print with UM's PC using default Cura profile and had rather bad results (posted here) - tall prints are not that good either, probably due to temp difference (not really taken into account by Cura it seems, cooling is only adjusted for the first few layers), posted here So yes... I agree - I did spend quite a lot of time on debugging and adjustments... Maybe on another printer I would have same / other issues, but the price difference...

Hi, So I just tried to print with a brand new Ultimaker PC using default Cura 4.8 settings (Engineering 0.15) with an AA 0.4 head. Ok, I did modify two things: I enabled blob and disabled brim (since the print has a large bottom surface). I used a liquid paper glue for adhesion. I priinted with doors closed and with an extraction fan in the hood (not very powerful though). The issues are (see attached pics): - "hairs", some of them burned (I used this head for tough PLA before - can that be the reason?); there are even hairs in the fan! - relatively poor surface quality - poor adhesion (maybe I should have enabled brim...) Anyone would have an idea what wen wrong or how to improve it?

Thanks for your suggestions gr5. I've tried it (no bed heating, 0.2 layer height, open doors and an extraction fan in the plexi hood), but unfortunately the results seems to be similar (see attached picture). The material (both black and white prints) is Innofil3D Pro1 (a tough PLA), but I had similar results previously with Ultimaker's tough PLA. We just bought an external humidity controlling spool box and will use it along with a new (well, an old but never unpacked) roll of Ultimaker PVA and try to print with support. Or... I will just add "fins" on the "bottom side" of the cone to act as a permanent support for horizontal printing...

Hi, Would someone have an idea how to print the attached stl so that it would not bend (see attached pictures)? It is a half of a tapered cone (a helix antenna reflector). I try to print it without support because the surface quality is really important (and dual extrusion with PVA is always messy on the S5 I am using). The attached stl is meshed with low "resolution" to reduce the file size for posting here. Half_cone_3.81_low_res (Meshed).stl