[Complete head scratcher ... why?]

I hear you @geert_2 but I would really rather it work how it is supposed to especially when I will want to print with different nozzles and even smaller layer heights.

 

Here are some images where I made white marks in the belts per your suggestion and overlaid lines to represent the relationship to the print. I think they are lining up.

 

What seems to show an even clearer case is the pulley gears themselves which seems to show the wobble fairly clearly in the video I took in the zip attached. 

 

The last two image is where I rotated the glass 180 and left bed leveling exactly the same to rule out that it is the glass or bed. This double confirms it is not the glass since I both flipped it and rotated.

 

Thank you everyone for the help! Next stop UM Support and replacement parts 😞

pulleyGears_20201210215954.zip

[Complete head scratcher ... why?]

Thank you so much, so based on the measurements would you say that if it is not the glass it is the center rods and not the outer pulley rods right?

 

Here are some additional photos after I flipped the glass and releveled, which is showing it is not yet level but does hide it like you said.

 

I will finally try to rotate the glass per your suggestion with the same leveling to ensure it is not the glass.

 

I will open a support ticket to replace whatever part the issue is.

 

Does anyone know the actual names of the rods? I'd like to be more educated and describe the issue better in the support ticket.

[Complete head scratcher ... why?]

Thank you for the additional details Torgeir! I just did a larger test (stopped it after noticing it was about to do a 2md layer)and the distance seems to be between 40-45 mm from center of each 'hole' Does this align with the one rev or 12 mm shaft rotation theory you mentioned @Torgeir?

[Complete head scratcher ... why?]

Ah thank you, I will do another test and measure. 

 

I have not used my printer for almost 3 years and started noticing some inconsistencies when started printing again. Maybe it got damaged during a move I had since then?

 

Since the UM2 line is EOL does anyone know how I can approach the repair?

[Complete head scratcher ... why?]

Interesting, and which rods would I check the xy rods the hotend rides on or the pulley side rods also? How would I check such small potential warp? Would it be easier to just order new rods?

[Complete head scratcher ... why?]

I re-cleaned the bed, re-leveled it, tightened the belts and lubricated ( X,Y)and greased (Z) everything and no difference. Here is the 2nd print of the same .1 mm square

[Complete head scratcher ... why?]

No bumps, the glass is smooth just a thin layer of glue wiped on with water like always. Glass is right side up, the sticker fell off while washing the glass and I never stuck it back on.

 

Could this be something with the belts or axels or trapezoidal leadscrew?

[Complete head scratcher ... why?]

Does anyone have any idea why this test print of a .1 mm layer (set layer height) would do this?

 

It seems almost like a checkerboard and I am a bit off on the bed level but a minor issue compared to the checkerboarding. Any ideas?

[Pre-heatup Gcode]

@penright If you found the solution to this I would also like to know since the latest Cura doesn't seem to be preheating my UM2 automatically before I send a print via USB

[Ultimaker 2+ E3D-V6]

Me too I am in the same boat.

 

If not available but alternative path is possible I am happy to compile based on latest Marlin but:

 

1. I don't know where to get the E3D source ?
2. Which Marlin (and/or Cura) is compatible with V6 hotend and Titan extruder?

Thank you to anyone for input.