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stan_bulgaria

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  1. Yes, problem solved. Where do I have to mark the topic as Solved?
  2. Thank you for your reply gr5, To my last project I've noticed what you describe - on the raft and initial three layers the fan speed was 0 rpm (in Cura I specify in % of the max fan speed - 255 rpm). After that it goes to the specified - in the case 80%. On my other project with bridging the fan speed changes like this: - initial layer - 0 rpm; specified 80% - second layer - 128 rpm (50%); specified 80% - third layer - 204 rpm (80% as specified) - first layer of bridging - as specified 80% for the none hanging part and 99% as specified in the Experim
  3. Hello community, I have a question - What are the settings that control/affect the Fan speed in Cura? I have started a topic about the "Bridge fan speed" to which I don't have an answer and now I see that the fan speed for other projects I'm doing is not what I specify. Apparently there are some settings that are not stright forward visible or some Material, Shell or Other settings that affect the Fan speed. Thanks Stan
  4. Hello community, I would like to understand what and how I specified in the settings to get the result I have. This time I've uploaded a video in youtube, so it can be seen what happens in reality. I went through the settings that I made but I don't see anything for the fan beside in COOLING (specified at 80%) and in EXPERIMENTAL> BRIDGE FAN SPEED (specified at 99%). In the general settings for "Manage materials" I have 100% fan speed. Situation: At layer 15 starts the bridging. The non hanging parts of the layer are printed as it should with the spe
  5. Hi Friedl, unfortunately with so many filament and printer producers, plus local weather conditions that can play a role, it is difficult to have universal temperature settings for a type of material. As more complex the polymers are more things affect the printing result. But finding the correct settings once, after that it is fine tuning. Just an idea. Try to set each setting one by one - first try the bed temperature. When you are satisfied with it do the step by stem setting of the nozzle temperature. Regards Stan
  6. Attached are the pictures of the finished detail. The filament is transparent and it is difficult to see on picture, but there is severe sagging from one of the sides. One more thing that I saw on layer 15. The printing of the openings is in a random order. It starts on the first opening from the middle of the wall towards the center; then the nozzle goes to the second opening and starts from the outer diameter toward the inner side (it starts in the air - it is visible if looking from down up); on the third opening it copies the moves of the first one. After that the
  7. Hello community, I've started a model which has some overhangs - 21 mm to be bridged. To do this I used the Bridge settings under Experimental tab in Cura 4.8.0. Where comes an issue? I watched how the bridge printing will be done on the printer and to my surprise I saw an opposite action to what I specified in Cura. Under "Bridge Fan Speed" I've set 100% but in reality the printer - Creality Ender 3 V2, is stopping the fan just before it starts the bridging and after finished with the bridging is going to the specified 80% for the rest of the layer, which is not ov
  8. Hello Friedl, apologizes for not answering on time - I just saw your question. My experience is very limited. I'm using two types of CPE (PETG modified) filaments. For harsh conditions I prefer Fillamentum CPE HG100 and for normal use RAST 3D PETG. In general I found out that for my printer Creality Ender 3 V2, the temperature settings are lower than the respective filament recommended. 1. So in order to find the most appropriate temperature settings I make a test to see at what temperature the filament starts flowing freely out of the nozzle. 2. Then I make a
  9. I hope you have solved the issue already. One more thing I forgot. When I print the raft - the first 4 layers, I don't use the fan. I switch it off from the fine tuning of the printer. Starting from the fifth layer the fan gradually gets to the working speed - in my case 205 rpm.
  10. I think you need lower bed T - 90C may be quite a lot. 70C would be more safe. However every filament is different.
  11. I forgot one thing - I don't dry the filaments, if makes any difference. The humidity in the room I print is around 50%+-5, air temperature 18-20C.
  12. My experience with CPE. After I finished the test PLA that came with my Ender 3 V2 I print only CPE - from two different producers and different colours. It took me almost one month to set the correct temperatures. 1. Here in the forum is described how to prepare the bed. In my case I cleaned the bare glass and sprayed it with hair spray - very light. That was before may be 16-17 prints. I haven't cleaned it or sprayed it again ever since. The models are sticking perfectly (I was surprised with the last as it is air plane tale without support, only raft). 2. Check
  13. I looked in the settings of my print settings. I have made visible "Make Overhang Printable", but it is not switched on. The description when the cursor is over it is clear.
  14. Hello Blackgun, I'm using Creality Ender 3 V2 on OpenSUSE Leap 15.2 with Cura 4.8.0. I opened your project and sliced it as it is, so it has only 2 hours and 23 min estimated printing. But it is missing the hole in the bottom. However all the rest is present. I turned the detail to lay on one side. It has the holes that were missing but now the hole that appears on the bottom is missing. So the issue may be connected with the initial layers. I switched off the infill colors to see better the inprints/holes.
  15. Hello Torgeir, good idea. It worths a trial and I'll check it when printing shells again. For the moment I have overcome the problem as I changed the model and inserted a support for the shell as Geert advised, with a very small gap of only 0,2 mm. In that way the surface covered by the support is good and has some blobs only around the edges. It is easy to remove the blobs afterwards even with finger. I've already broken two of the finished models and I've noticed something, which perhaps cannot be skipped. The detail body consists of three cylinders with
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