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  1. I hope you have solved the issue already. One more thing I forgot. When I print the raft - the first 4 layers, I don't use the fan. I switch it off from the fine tuning of the printer. Starting from the fifth layer the fan gradually gets to the working speed - in my case 205 rpm.
  2. I think you need lower bed T - 90C may be quite a lot. 70C would be more safe. However every filament is different.
  3. I forgot one thing - I don't dry the filaments, if makes any difference. The humidity in the room I print is around 50%+-5, air temperature 18-20C.
  4. My experience with CPE. After I finished the test PLA that came with my Ender 3 V2 I print only CPE - from two different producers and different colours. It took me almost one month to set the correct temperatures. 1. Here in the forum is described how to prepare the bed. In my case I cleaned the bare glass and sprayed it with hair spray - very light. That was before may be 16-17 prints. I haven't cleaned it or sprayed it again ever since. The models are sticking perfectly (I was surprised with the last as it is air plane tale without support, only raft). 2. Check
  5. I looked in the settings of my print settings. I have made visible "Make Overhang Printable", but it is not switched on. The description when the cursor is over it is clear.
  6. Hello Blackgun, I'm using Creality Ender 3 V2 on OpenSUSE Leap 15.2 with Cura 4.8.0. I opened your project and sliced it as it is, so it has only 2 hours and 23 min estimated printing. But it is missing the hole in the bottom. However all the rest is present. I turned the detail to lay on one side. It has the holes that were missing but now the hole that appears on the bottom is missing. So the issue may be connected with the initial layers. I switched off the infill colors to see better the inprints/holes.
  7. Hello Torgeir, good idea. It worths a trial and I'll check it when printing shells again. For the moment I have overcome the problem as I changed the model and inserted a support for the shell as Geert advised, with a very small gap of only 0,2 mm. In that way the surface covered by the support is good and has some blobs only around the edges. It is easy to remove the blobs afterwards even with finger. I've already broken two of the finished models and I've noticed something, which perhaps cannot be skipped. The detail body consists of three cylinders with
  8. Hello Torgeir, thank you for your support. I'm now trying how it will print with transparent PETG from a local Bulgarian filament producer - Rast 3D. So far the settings show to be with lower temperatures for the same result: Nozzle = 205 C Bed = 70 C Fan = 205 rpm Speed = 25 mm/s Regards Stan
  9. Hello Geert, thank you for your support. A good news - I have finally made it the way I wanted. It took a lot of trials and research on the forums but the result is accomplished. Here is how. First I have to admit I made a simple mistake. When I read, you guys are using glass I didn't pay attention what kind of glass. With Creality Ender 3 V2 the bed platform comes with glass that is coated with some special, probably paint. It stays on the top side of the glass and you extrude over it. With PLA it bonds very good - no need of anything additional glues. So I
  10. To clean the bed I use paint solvent which main ingredients are: Toluen - 50-60% Xylene - 10-20% Acetone - 10-20% n-butyl acetat - 5-10% I always use this solvent to degrease and clean surfaces before fine painting with resins and it gives very good result. It is very strong, however it dissolves some plastics and even harden resins.
  11. Geert, I've read some of your posts regarding the warping and the bed adhesion - very good technics. After I decided to print the whole detail, since that the temperature settings will have totally different effect, I came up to the attached crashing result. Please don't laugh on the adhesion decicion as what happen was warping or bending at a height of 10 mm. More severe it appeared after I debonded the final "thing" of the bed. The bottom side raft surface is like a mushroom or like lens. Right in the center of the detail is the pick of the lens. The edges, where th
  12. Good to mention. I see it also shows an icon with a hummer and wrench next to the SLICE button.
  13. Thank you Smithy. I checked the post processing scripts, but to make one is way above my knowledge and ability. I switch the settings manually at the printer menu until, if may be, it becomes available in Cura.
  14. I've read this is possible on Ultimaker but from the printer menu, something as fine tuning. So you do this as "hardware change", but can you specify it in the slicing process?
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