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Kamakanaaa

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Kamakanaaa last won the day on December 25 2020

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  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker S3

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  1. Intro : This isn't a question post but an information post. Reason I'm posting it is because I couldn't find a single person who has tried this and posted it. Materials : PEI Sheets : https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/buildtak-3d-printer-pei-build-surface-pack-of-3/sk/MDPJTW93 Extra Glass Bed : https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/glass-print-bed-for-ultimaker-2-3/sk/MFHKAEQK Flex Plate System : https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/buildtak-flexplate-system-9-x-10/sk/MPZ03EZP The reason why I chose the PEI sheets over using the typical Buildtak original material is because I wanted to replicate the package that buildtak has for the Ultimaker S5 which uses the PEI sheet instead of the original material. Unfortunately Buildtak does not offer a package for the Ultimaker S3. Finally, I primarily prototype in PETG and the original surface tends to be worn down easily by it. Installation : Essentially the Flexplate Magnetic Base comes with an adhesive on one side which sticks well to the glass bed, it also has some relief corners to accommodate the bed plate clamps. Stick Magnetic Base onto the glass bed Reinstall the Glass Bed Stick PEI sheet onto Flex plate Install Flex Plate and You're done Review : After having the system installed for a few days, I can confidently say that it has made my life a whole lot easier. I no longer have to worry about chipping the glass bed when I work with PETG but instead, can focus on designing the parts themselves (exactly the purpose of purchasing an Ultimaker over another brand). Moreover, the PEI sheet has worked well with a variety of materials and provide a smooth enough finish on the base of the part. In conclusion, I would do this modification again, in fact, I wished I wouldve done it sooner. So if you're anything like me and work with a lot of materials that stick too well to glass beds, get this system, it works.
  2. It depends on what realm you are working in.... If printing is a hobby, consider looking at Matterhackers Build Series and Hatchbox. I have had great experiences with these two filament brands at the hobby level, where I was most concerned with an affordable, consistent filament. Both offer excellent layer and bed adhesion. I am also testing some Prusament PLA right now but do not have enough information to draw a perfect general conclusion (so far, it's been a great contender, definitely in Top Five). If you do 3D printing professionally, for instance, in an engineering firm or other applications related to product development, prototyping, and short-run manufacturing, I would consider: Atomic, Ultimaker, Matterhackers Pro series, and ColorFab. I have tested dozens of different filament brands to figure out the best pro-grade filament for the money. I am most focused on filaments with high consistency, strength, visual quality, and dimensional accuracy because I do this professionally now. The reason being is because when printing on something that would be presented to other people outside of the company, visual quality, and presentation of the product matter. I also have a strong focus on accuracy because it's great to have that peace of mind to know that what I design in CAD will fit how I created it. (Most of the project I work on require accuracy of 100 microns or better)
  3. There is a plugin called Z-Offset Setting. It adds the ability to manually change the z-offset which should help with your issue. Another thing to check is your bed leveling with a sheet of paper. A regular size copy paper should have little friction when moved between the nozzle and bed.
  4. I've had this problem a lot over the years. Usually, it had something to do with tuning the e-steps of the printers on all of the non-ulitmaker printers. I've even had a Prusa from the factory have the same exact issues. If using an Ultimaker printer, try and set your horizontal expansion settings to what others have listed in the forums. Another thing, equalize all of your jerk settings (I use 20), and speed settings. Moreover, play with the slicing tolerance and set it to exclusive for better dimensional accuracy. Finally, make sure the model is cooled before you remove the print bed from the printer. Then measure it. Hope this helps!
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