kwill5800

i'm having a similar problem. Try turning your model cooling fans off. The first layer is by default no cooling but every layer after that is usually cooled that may be the problem. I'm not sure how to fix it though. I have a very similar setup as you, upgraded 2 to +. except i have a bondtech qr.

I'm having underextrusion issues ever since ive changed my block to a 3d solex block and changed my heater to a 35w. I thought that maybe the fan shroud was causing the problem so i changed it to laberns fan shroud. This seems to have fixed it somewhat but i still get underextrusion when my model cooling fans are on. Does anyone know why?

I have a ultimaker from before 2017 meaning that i have 5 motor drivers. I have the mark 2 kit installed meaning that i have used all 5 motor drivers. If I wanted to add another motor for another extruder, how would i go about that? Thanks

Does anyone have experience printing clear on the um2 or any 3d printer? If so, what settings and filament do you use. Any tips? Ive been getting decent results with colorfabb ht but i wanted to see is anyone else has been able to do better.

Turn eco mode is off in the temp settings. I don't have a ender 5 so i don't know where the settings is but google it and you should find it. Hope that helps! Printing from usb is not very reliable for any 3d printer. SD card is the way to go or you can get octoprint.

I have recently been having underextrusion issues and figured out that it was due to the shroud touching the nozzle. Can i use a drill bit and make the hole bigger? I have a um2

It seems to work but it still is slightly underextruding. i measured off 100mm on filament and took off the nozzle to remove resistance and I extruded 100mm using pronterface but it didn't extrude the full 100mm. Its like 3-4mm short. Any ideas? This is what the underextrusion looks like. Notice the gaps between the lines. Its kind of hard to see.

hm... let me try

When i use bondtech firmware for some reason, the printing is fine, but it underextrudes with tinker's firmware. Any Idea why?

I never thought i would be saying this but im having underextusion issues on my um2 with a bondtech qr extruder. I think its a problem with the firmware though. I prefer tinker firmware so i am using that instead of the bondtech firmware. I think its a problem with the esteps value. Ive tried "printing" a gcode file with the Esteps command and also pronterface but both don't seem to work. Is there a way to directly check if the esteps value was uploaded and saved? Or is there way i can modify tinker firmware and change the esteps value and the loading speed? Or am i doing something completely wrong? Esteps value:492.45 loading and unloading speed 50mm/s

I vaguely remember someone on the ultimaker forum that installed octoprint and had a guide. I think it was you? Does that still work?

Can anyone with experience in using octoprint on the UM2 lead me to a good source for a tutorial on how to install octoprint? Many resources out there are kinda old. Any help is appreciated. Also If you have installed octoprint, could you tell me what hardware you needed(especially the wifi dongle). I have a raspberry pi 4b 4gb ram model. Thanks!

Yeah, I feel like its only really useful if ur just getting a basic idea for a design or if you want vases with a cool design.

I use a bondtech extruder and a 35w heater on my um2 with 3d solex block and nozzles and 2mm is possible for me.

I have actually printed on a 2mm nozzle. It won't work on a regular nozzle as the core of the filament wont really melt and you will have to print very slow. I use the 3d Solex matchless nozzles and its more possible to print 2mm. The matchless nozzles increase the surface area of the nozzle and allow the filament to melt more thoroughly. It requires experimenting with the settings though.