kwill5800

i'm having a similar problem. Try turning your model cooling fans off. The first layer is by default no cooling but every layer after that is usually cooled that may be the problem. I'm not sure how to fix it though. I have a very similar setup as you, upgraded 2 to +. except i have a bondtech qr.

I'm having underextrusion issues ever since ive changed my block to a 3d solex block and changed my heater to a 35w. I thought that maybe the fan shroud was causing the problem so i changed it to laberns fan shroud. This seems to have fixed it somewhat but i still get underextrusion when my model cooling fans are on. Does anyone know why?

I have a ultimaker from before 2017 meaning that i have 5 motor drivers. I have the mark 2 kit installed meaning that i have used all 5 motor drivers. If I wanted to add another motor for another extruder, how would i go about that? Thanks

Does anyone have experience printing clear on the um2 or any 3d printer? If so, what settings and filament do you use. Any tips? Ive been getting decent results with colorfabb ht but i wanted to see is anyone else has been able to do better.

Turn eco mode is off in the temp settings. I don't have a ender 5 so i don't know where the settings is but google it and you should find it. Hope that helps! Printing from usb is not very reliable for any 3d printer. SD card is the way to go or you can get octoprint.

I have recently been having underextrusion issues and figured out that it was due to the shroud touching the nozzle. Can i use a drill bit and make the hole bigger? I have a um2

It seems to work but it still is slightly underextruding. i measured off 100mm on filament and took off the nozzle to remove resistance and I extruded 100mm using pronterface but it didn't extrude the full 100mm. Its like 3-4mm short. Any ideas? This is what the underextrusion looks like. Notice the gaps between the lines. Its kind of hard to see.

hm... let me try

When i use bondtech firmware for some reason, the printing is fine, but it underextrudes with tinker's firmware. Any Idea why?

I never thought i would be saying this but im having underextusion issues on my um2 with a bondtech qr extruder. I think its a problem with the firmware though. I prefer tinker firmware so i am using that instead of the bondtech firmware. I think its a problem with the esteps value. Ive tried "printing" a gcode file with the Esteps command and also pronterface but both don't seem to work. Is there a way to directly check if the esteps value was uploaded and saved? Or is there way i can modify tinker firmware and change the esteps value and the loading speed? Or am i doing something completely wrong? Esteps value:492.45 loading and unloading speed 50mm/s

I vaguely remember someone on the ultimaker forum that installed octoprint and had a guide. I think it was you? Does that still work?

Can anyone with experience in using octoprint on the UM2 lead me to a good source for a tutorial on how to install octoprint? Many resources out there are kinda old. Any help is appreciated. Also If you have installed octoprint, could you tell me what hardware you needed(especially the wifi dongle). I have a raspberry pi 4b 4gb ram model. Thanks!

Yeah, I feel like its only really useful if ur just getting a basic idea for a design or if you want vases with a cool design.

I use a bondtech extruder and a 35w heater on my um2 with 3d solex block and nozzles and 2mm is possible for me.

I have actually printed on a 2mm nozzle. It won't work on a regular nozzle as the core of the filament wont really melt and you will have to print very slow. I use the 3d Solex matchless nozzles and its more possible to print 2mm. The matchless nozzles increase the surface area of the nozzle and allow the filament to melt more thoroughly. It requires experimenting with the settings though.

What is the command to send to ultimaker 2 via pronterface to change the material loading speed to 50mm/s.

I just got a new chunky 330w power source to accommodate two 35w heaters on by um2. I have heard of people frying their boards with a power source. Is that a problem here?

why DXU?

I have a ultimaker 2 and am currently in the process of upgrading to a mark 2. I am just waiting for a few parts to arrive. I chose the mark 2 over the DXU cause its easier to manage in my opinion and easier to source the parts. The mark 2 upgrade is relatively cheap. Are you buying a um2+ upgrade kit or buying the bondtech and the printhead? I opted to upgrade both my feeders to bondtech qrs( since my old one is absolutely terrible) and bought the um2+ upgrade kit. I also upgraded the heater cartridge and the temp sensor to um2+. I also had to buy a 330w power supply to support the two 35w heaters and the printbed. I found that the Mark 2 upgrade essentials kit is out of stock pretty much any where but I think you can just get the magnets and cables separately. Overall it was pretty expensive($1000) but I think you can get away with just buying the um2+ upgrade kit. The DXU is also pretty good solution but as I've said the parts are kinda hard to source. Another reason I chose mark 2 over DXU is because I'm pretty sure the DXU is 1.75mm filament(correct me if im wrong) and I prefer 2.85mm to 1.75mm. The DXU might end up being cheaper. If you have the um2 feeder(instead of the um2+ geared feeder), I recommend that you upgrade that to either the um2+ feeder or buy a bondtech feeder. Also avoid dual extrusion upgrades that don't use a lifting head system or the thing that that the mark 2 uses. Mark 2 also makes it easier to add future modifications. edit: the mark 2 esentials kit is also alavible on aliexpress.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32828408726.html

I have a UM2 and I want to buy another Bondtech Qr feeder. https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/bondtech-qr-extruder/sk/M4KZR03V Will this one work? Its not part of the Ultimaker 2 upgrade kit, so I wasn't sure if it would fit. It doesn't include the 3d printed parts so I can just 3d print those. I can also just buy the nuts and bolts but can I just use the same stepper motor wiring I use for my current extruder?

Thanks Tinkergnome!

Its very easy to use tinkergnomes firmware. Honestly much easier to do that.

Bondtech QR 2.85 mm Though apparently there are firmware changes needed for the heat sensor as well as the heater. i heard this from the place i bought my ultimaker from(fbrc8). You can either send custom gcode to your printer.(check ultimaker forums for more info) or you can use tinkergnomes firmware to adjust the esteps inside your printer.

I recently got a new bondtech feeder and changed the heater(25w) and sensor on my um2 to the ones for the um2+(35w). How do I modify my firmware to match these modifications.

Machine: UM2, mark 2 upgrade, olsson block I recently did the mark 2 upgrade and will use the second nozzle for dissolvable supports(PVA). I am worried that the PVA sitting in the nozzle will mess it up. Apparently, the ultimaker 3 BB core has a internal geometry allowing it to print PVA well. Is this really an issue and are there nozzles capable of printing PVA that will fit in my UM2(M6 threads, 2.85mm)?