Stoty

Anyone know how to find out what the updates include for the Jan 28, 2021, Ender 3 V2 firmware update on Creality's site? Like to know before I update. https://www.creality.com/download

Anyone know why the Ender 3 V2 won't read a SD card when using an extension cable? TO use the extension cable, the end of the extension cable has to be removed and inserted again to read the card. I wanted to use the extension cable to save wear and tear on the SD slot.

I have the 4.2.2 board

I don't but I will pop the cover when the print that is running is complete and see what it is. I think its the 4.2.7, but I'm not sure. If they fixed the M117 problem, that would be great.

I just saw Creality posted a Jan 14 2021 firmware update for V2. How does one know what they changed?

Does anyone know how to get to the LCD firmware that is currently on my Ender 3 V2? I assume if I can download the firmware on the LCD I presume I could find a way to make it use the M117 code - or is that something that has to change on the motherboard firmware?

If it matters, I have the 32 bit board.

New to 3D and just purchased an Ender 3 V2 with the stock firmware in the LCD and the latest update (V 1.0.2) on the motherboard. Other than the updated firmware for the motherboard update from Creality is there a better firmware for the motherboard and LCD? Learning that Creality uses Marlin 2.0, but wondering if the Marlin folks have a better update than Creailty that takes advantage of more G code functions.

I am guessing this is a personal preference question. I have an Ender 3 V2. I am curious about brands of PLA and which ones are better/more consistent. I am new to 3D printing (hobby) and have been using Inland PLA (made in China) as it is sold at a store local to me. Its the only brand they carry. I have been reading up and see that Hatchbox and IC3D are highly rated for quality, etc. Interestingly I see that IC3D is headquartered near me. Was looking to by USA made PLA if the quality is good. I have random issues with the Inland spool being tangled. It also seems to vary as to whether it will stick to the build plate within the same spool and identical parameters. White and gray are what I have used the most. THe black spool I have seems to work better. Before I open a blue and red spool I was curious what folks thought.

Thank you. I will see how I can get the printer to talk to my computer.

I'll have to read up on this M117 stuff. Above on calibration your said "Enter that in the LCD as the new e-steps and do the experiment again.". Is this the transmission ratio? I see a Transmission ratio of 400 for the Z and 80 for the X and Y. I don't see any other location that changes the "e-steps".

I have a question into Creality. I'll add this and see what they say. It is the Marlin Firmware update that isn't reading the M117 code that Cura is listing in the script? I think I have done the correct firmware updates. Did the Cube check. The X and Y axis are at about 19.9 mm. Z is at about 19.65 mm Looks like Z needs a tweak. Thanks

Sorry. I haven't gotten all the terminology down yet. Running Cura 4.8. I took whatever was the latest when I started a couple of weeks ago. I do see the icon next to the slicer button (had to download a plugin for that as I recall). I attached what I ran for the temp tower (I modified after reading some of the posts here) and what I just ran for the cube test I ran. I had changed the file names to something short, but still only saw the filename. I have always seen time spent and time remaining on the LCD. I attached a picture of what the LCD screen looks like during a print. Cube.gcode PLA 185-225.gcode

Plugin? You mean firmware? I updated the Marlin firmware when I got the the printer to Ver 1.0.2. I haven't updated anything on the LCD panel as I haven't figured out how to do that or if it needed done.

Got it. I did do an extruder check and it is at almost exactly 100 mm. I haven't checked the x, y, and z axis. I'll do that. I have also found, with many different initial layer parameters, that I need to put a layer of glue stick on the bed. I've leveled the bed with a feeler gauge rather than a piece of paper. Its very similar to setting the valve lash in an engine. I am at about 0.002-in. (.05 mm). I did find the center of the bed was about 0.001-in lower, so I leveled the bed in about a 4-in circle. Cleaned the bed, and restarted the temp tower with your parameters noted above. The first layer didn't stick. Cleaned the bed again, added a layer of glue stick and its now printing fine. I also shorted the file name and the layer number still isn't showing. I'll fight that problem later.