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I would like to give Dynamism a Gold Star (tm) for not gouging on repair parts. Some time ago, I had prints failing due to an inoperative print head fan. It was a broken connection, so easy to fix. However, the other day it started the same thing again, and I noticed that the fan was not spinning. Disassembly showed a lot of environmental cat hair (yes, yes, I know) stuck in it, and although I can clean that out, I thought it would be a good idea to replace it with a new known-good one to avoid the masochistic disassembly of the print head yet again. Being che^H^H^Hfrugal, I first checked Amazon with the Sunon part number, thinking they would probably be cheaper. $47-ish for a new fan on Amazon. Then I checked Dynamism and it was $19 and change, less than half of Amazon's price! Thanks again to Dynamism. 😉

Yes, mine was a disconnected wire too. Lesson learned.

You're very welcome. This was a quirky one, and a lesson learned in overlooking what should have been obvious. I'm usually very confident in troubleshooting 3d printers, but this one had me stumped. Thanks again to those who helped out. This explains another quirk, which I did not include in my original item simply to avoid overloading and what I thought may be confusion. Again, lesson learned, all details may be relevant. Once when I was changing filaments, the filament would not unload. When I removed the bowden tube from the print head, it was obvious that the reason it would not unload was that there was a bulge in the filament, preventing it from moving through the tube upon an unload request. (Photo below, look closely.) It only happened once, and now I realize that in the other cases I removed the filament before things cooled down to the point that the deformed filament was solid. In this case I obviously waited a while and the filament cooled and prevented the unload from happening as expected. Thanks again. Hopefully this exchange will be searchable and will help others with similar problems.

Well, it looks like the fire may be out. Thanks to everyone, in particular to gr5 and Torgeir. It looks like the culprit was the fan, and I'm actually surprised that I did not notice that the fan was not spinning. At least the trivial print printed as expected. Now to try some 'real' prints. Thanks again.

Thanks, but I think I have the mystery solved. I was using the low-tech method of a dental mirror and flashlight in an awkward set of positions, and I finally realized that if I would simply slip the phone in there, turn the flash on, I might be able to capture the markings on the board, which I did. As you can see, the second connector from the left is clearly marked 'Sensor', so when I get a chance this afternoon or evening I'll be able to put the thing back together. Thanks again.

Thanks, GR5. As you will see from the photo, the one wire to the fan had broken off, obviously rendering it inoperable. I resoldered it and the fan spins up properly on a bench supply. I also removed various cat hair and other environmental gunk, and it spins freely. Now, as I removed the assembly, I neglected to write down the order in which the sensor and the fan are connected to the rear of the print head assembly. Even with a dental mirror I can't see obvious markings. Would you please be kind enough to tell me the order (looking at the print head assembly from the rear) the fan and the sensor are connected. I don't want to get these backwards and risk damaging something. The two side fans are still connected, I just need the left-to-right order of the sensor and fan that are in the print head cover. I tried googling for the connections, but came up empty. Thanks again.

Thanks for the responses. before I dump the logs, i will inspect and carefully clean the front fan.

thanks, will do

Thanks, which logs, specifically (IIRC, there are many files) do you want?

And I just did a good cold pull on one of the other AAs, same thing, loses extrusion midway during the first layer. I'm going to contact Dynamism support on this, as I am totally stumped.

Also, this is currently losing extrusion, not printing in the air or printing squished against the build plate. One of the areas where the extrusion is poor on the flat piece is dead-center, where the successful print of the post occurs.

I have used three different known-good AA .4 print heads and one known-good AA.25. One of the .4 ones was cold-pulled and needled to be sure.

Unfortunately it's about the same. The vertical post prints perfectly, the small flat piece loses extrusion shortly into the first layer.

Another update, I just updated to 7.0.3 and there was a yellow (!) warning suggesting to update to 7.1.3 as it fixes a bed leveling issue observed in the field. Downloading 7.1.3 now.

I ran the bed leveling test and it passed. Ditto with the sensor switch test. I'm currently downloading 7.0.3 and will version the box as a next step. If the issue persists I'll probably phone or write Dynamism support tomorrow and I'm sure one of the first things they will ask is if it is running current firmware.

My optimism was a bit premature. The flat piece failed, almost exactly like yours and my previous one. However, power-down, wait, turn on, print the vertical post, came out perfect. This is not making sense. I'm wondering if this may be software related, and it might be a good idea to version the box as a next step. I'm currently running 6.5.2, what are you running?

Meeple, that failed print looks extremely close to one of mine. Here's an update. As a sanity check, this afternoon I tried printing an extremely trivial item, a thin flat plastic washer for the same project, which I was printing several-up on the Prusa. This is 10mm in diameter and .4mm thick. The first few came out perfect. However, as I printed more of them, they got rougher and poorer with each print. I then shut the machine off, powered it down and let it thoroughly drain. Powered it back up and printed a single washer which came out perfect. Rinse-repeat. Power down, wait, power up, print washer, perfect. Then I powered it down, let it drain, and printed that vertical post (which failed miserably this morning), and it came out perfect. There were no changes other than power cycles between the failed vertical post pictured above and the recent successful one. It's now powered down and draining and I'm about to walk over to it, power it back up, and try the flat piece to see if it prints ok right after a power-up. Film at 11.

That's one thing I thought at first, but things changed when I did the (partial) reset.

Ladies and gentlemen, hopefully the collective wisdom can point me in the right direction, because, even though I'm no beginner to 3d printing, I am totally dumbfounded as to what is going on. Perhaps someone has seen something like this or has some insight into what is going on. I have a ca. 2020-ish S5, the version with the 'U' on the side, which until last weekend was a flawless performer. For lack of a better expression, it's gone 'all to $#!+', and although I think I'm usually a competent troubleshooter, this one has me totally baffled. Any insight would be appreciated. I've enclosed a few photos to illustrate what is happening. Last Saturday, during a run of very ordinary prints, one very simple one (a flat piece) started failing on the first layer. It looked like the extrusion simply stopped midway in the print. However, prints of a circular peg were always successful. I would do 2-3 pegs, which came out perfect, then try the flat piece again with the same results. This is plain vanilla Hatchbox PLA, and I stopped to give it a good dry-out in the air fryer just in case it had picked up moisture. (No effect.) I did cold pulls, no effect. I have three good AA print heads, all gave the same symptoms. Good on the peg, failed first layer on the flat piece. I switched one of the AAs over to the right side, no difference. Good on the peg, failed on the flat print. I did clean out the feeder on the #1 side, thinking that it may have gotten clogged with filament debris, but it was fairly clean. Then, all of a sudden, no mucking around on my part except for swapping assumed-to-be-good AA assemblies and assumed to be good filament, it started the prints in mid air, a fraction of a MM above the build plate. The one photo shows the nozzle above the build plate and a small tangle of extruded filament to the left of the nozzles. I did the partial reset from the front panel, thinking that maybe something was internally corrupt, and at first it seemed like the print of the peg (the black one) was starting normally, but after several layers it went into what looks like underextrusion, although it felt like the filament was being pulled in from the rear at more or less the normal pace. I do have another printer ('brand P') 😉 so I am not dead in the water, but any guidance as to which way to proceed. TIA!

Ok, I got that to load and execute under Wine without any formality, but it wants me to select either of two Zmorph printers, which I assume sets the flavor of gcode that it will reverse. I don't have a Zmorph printer. I have the Ultimaker S5 which uses the Griffin gcode and a Prusa I3, which uses the Marlin flavor of gcode. Are you (or anyone) using this successfully with Ultimaker or Prusa gcode? Thanks.

Ok, thanks, let me try that version and see if I can get it to work.

I have tried to start Voxelizer, both the so-called 'experimental' version for Linux and the Windoze version running under wine, and when I try to register, the site it sends me to fails. Any hints? Thanks

I see them as two separate applications. Cura is the slicer, a stand-alone application that runs on a PC, and Digital Factory is the web-based application that runs on the printer.

Out of curiosity, have you tried using something like PrusaSlicer or Slic3r? If so, does it give you a larger working build area/volume?

Just a heads-up here, I recently ordered a spool of white 3mm PLA of the MG Chemicals brand and the hole in the spool is much too small to fit on the rear-mounted spool holder on the S5.