nitro20

So yea, that was my fault in the design.. I had it shelled out at 2mm, leaveing a .4mm gap the machine thought it had to fill sometimes... A cup that is shelled out at 2mm, .4 tip, set to .2 layer hieght, and cura stock settings set to .8 wall thickness, leaves a .4 void..... At least thats what i thought was happening, the piece printing as we speak seems to be goin around and around..

Solved!!!! Duh, another beginner mistake.....i had a 2mm cup wall and the wall thickness is .8. So i made the cup 1.6mm thick..now the printer dosent try to fill a .4mm gap in sections it thinks it missed...

And the results of me, a pot of cofee, and a enderv2, refurbed after 3 weeks of use, or maybe that first unorthidoxed tip change.....who knows? Lololol..

So many variables to getting that "out of the box" experience again... Today i have found .....i think. What if some filiment is built up and the tip is being thermoed by the plastic in the threads? What if the tip isnt changed rite and some filiment gets caught up between the bomen tube and the tip, then the tip wont seat correctly and ozes out filiment between the threads.. you plumbers would think this wouldnt be an issue, but it happened to me...if we can squeeze out threw a .2 hole, any gap between the boman tube and the tip will result in not enough pressure to push .2 nozzles... And when i say any gap...i mean it..i saw it happen... So now a new .4 tip and bowman tube and clean threads to seat the tip to the tube.. the tip has changed that rainbow color, is evidently heated up to a suggested temp with no issues, and the print now is perfect.... I think as of this point in MY own discoveries to NEWBIE in 3d printing, my question come with obvious answers.......

Glass backwards??? The side with the dimples or the smooth side..ive been running dimple side up... And also...ive found there isnt really a problem..unless i can lay down an ahesive layer, .2 tip at 100% print speed? OHHHH, u mean the glass is like 360 in x or y axis....lololol..just wanted to see if the other side stuck the extruder dump clean out beter..there was a sufface that was sprayed on to the plate, it was yellow in color, i noticed it removing when i wiped down with REAL 95% alcohol..(i re-distill 70% to 92-95% after purchase, coronavirus is a bitch, to some).....so i was wondering if creality has a bad ass sticky gue they coated the surface with?

Im printing a cup thing and the printer is making ridges and then running them over, and its making the printer sounds horrible and alot of vibrasions, it is making alot of useless moves, circleing the cup and laying down no filiment...it makes ruff bumps, runs them over then circles back and forth before laying down a nice smoth layer, then doing it all over again..i hope the cup stays adhesioned.. is this normal???

So last night i went print a 21 hour piece at .2 layer and a .4 tip, i only have .2 in harden steel i purchased with .2-1.0 and only .4 in brass,so i wont have any experience with .2 brass tips till Saturday's amozon shipment.....BUT that being said i put on a steel .4 tip, all stock cura settings, enderv2, pla, 100%PS....the night before i used a brass .4 on the same settings, but messed up the design and shut it off early...but this is what i have witnessed......today started .4 brass tip, same project the one under the printer picture....and the steel .4 tip from last that had no adhesion to the layers,but what i noticed first was the gaps i placed in the hydro cup are filled with strings of plastic that are attached extremely well for being that small... So to answer my own question, HELL FRIGEN, yes there is beter tips then others....SSOOOO. OCD is on the case....ANYONE use ruby tips...lololololol...thats about fiveteen-1.6 pint Widowmakers, 10.2%bv beers....lolololol...and i dont want to run into that drinkin problem man, two hands and an empty can...lololol..

I did try to adjust flow to 115% on both .4 and .2..no way on .2 with stock feeder gear... .4 i just had more plastics laid down.. never had a problem with .4 though..i dont know what i did, but lolol but ALL OF A SUDDEN, there are no issues on .2 tip as long as i lay down a first layer 40% print speed or lower, stock cura settings, ender v2, with pla..... I did start useing receipt paper, and it did help a ton. I only z-axis adjust -.05 - -.1 at start now. With printing paper i could do -.20--.25 without touching the plate...

Level bed, plumb hot end, tighten wheels, bla bla, didnt get to that forward adjustment screw..but... .2, stock cura, print speed 40%, u can see where i speed up to 60..it started pelling... But, i still have NO issue with .4 100% speed. Ordered a duel drive....lol..they got me...

But back to the topic... Bed leveling..OK here we go..i know i am new to 3d printing but what im not new to is BS, So, you really dont have to go around the bed leveling twice to make sure bla bla bla...think about it guys and gals, if you level the bed just above the adjustment screw, that is the axis, do all four, there no way to tip a corner up when leveling, bla bla bla.... I do mine by "move" commands to keep z axis locked...x30 y25, and go from there...make sure dont run into the plate clips..again ender v2...

Lololololol...ur so funny bro...those are REAL tool steel clamp bars, they are perfectly dimensional, i have small praxxon end mill, so these i used to adjust the hot end..lololol.?&%$#@$%. Plus! if a print turned out that good, i think i would be the chang of af all chins......lolololol still laughing...funny ass comment bro..i would prolly only be dreaming of a bridge port on my salary..lolol...if get my hands on a 5-1 in my life time ill be like a dog with 2 dicks and a couple firehidrents.....

Oh and also i HAD to turn the speed down to 25 to 35% on smaller pieces like this to get the adhesive layer to stick even before "the issues".... Im goin to drill and tap just behind the extruder, just under that lip, to be able to in some way plumb the hot end to table too...enderv2

h km ya, i bought ALL the hop ups only to be needing the double drive filiment gear thing.., went back to the white tube, only keeping the blue tube inside the hot end... Bltouch, lol, i got one, u want it.. it could fry ur board or it may work..u find out....i dont feel like working on another problem for creality... lololol we are the gini pigs..lol...

Thank you SO much, we have someone who can think out side the box and thinks maybe, everyones NOT A DUMBASS. U know when 1000s of people say the same thing but hear 10,000 people telling them what they was told and most likely stopped working.. Leveling bed, bla bla.....what about shitty tips, unsqaure extruder to bed..... NOT unlevel bed.. u can level ur bed ALL FKIN DAY and if you push out more one way then the other, ur screwed before u press print. especially when useing .03 .02 tips... i might be new to 3d printing..but i have OCD and theres nothing worst then when something JUST STOP WORKIN FOR NO REASON WITHIN ONE PRINT TO THE NEXT..no joke, 20 lbs of pla and bam, NO MOS PRINTORA..LOLOL...

So ive "all of a sudden" after 20 lbs of just haveing a great time in plastic trash am having adhesion problems. Ive had time to understand 85% of how this works and then it just stopped building an adhesion 1st layer without curling up, not sticking and shrinking to fast. (Please dont ask if i leveled my bed and all the bla bla bla stuff please) I witnessed this happen about 100 times in the last 12 hours, trying EVERYTHING u are about to ask me, this is ALL IVE BEEN DOIN ALL DAY! laying down adhesion layers watching them pull up and bla bla bla.... BUT then i noticed something, the extution tip was not really pointing straight down, me and my OCD went to work on the case of "the crooked tip"......so, back to today i was only having issues on the back stroke and first parts of top left corners, i adjusted the the "angle" of the extruder, and started geting the nice perfect layer on the side it wasnt before and visa versa. So, i started looking at ALL the variables of what a LEVEL bed REALLY is or means when we say this... I know what i have witnessed today with 25 or more adjustments and 100 failed adhesion layers, (should mention i am useing .2 tip) im pretty sure it has something to do with "squareing" up the tip to the sufface also. If you really want to dig deep, we are dealing with tolerances so small even the SLIGHTEST indifference will be cause and effect.. i MIGHT have changed 1/2 degree in tip drection and thats only in a 2 inch span, and had a new out come( leveling my bed everytime) I checked the extuder caridge wheels to see it they are still tight (ender v2) i noticed on my Ender it looks like the tip may be tilted back some, the mounting surface SUCKS,, no adjustment for front to back. Any SLIGHTEST way that tip can extrude .2 mm of plastic just 1/4 that in one direction will become a bump for the next path to run over and breaking its adhesion...ESPECIALLY running .2 to .3 tip ...do we even know how small that is...lolol...i must mention that when i put on a .4 tip i have NO problem getting it to stick..its when i go smaller.. So also, i know this is long but if you want to get into it then lets. Im 3 weeks old in 3d printing, so im a easy target... What about SHIT tips, could the way the tips are beveled and stuff have and effect. if the tips comes around and drags on the layer before...bam... Are there beter tips then others... Alls im sayin is...this ender and me have been married for a month and last night i wanted to give it divorce papers, i still havent layed down the perfect adhesion layers i was doing just a day ago but i got to a livable tolerance with out changing code, this that or the other thing, it worked before and ill be gid dammed if its not gonna work as it did a day ago. dont need another hobbie, i need a 3d printer for my other hobbie..lololol

Ok.....here we go..ive had this ender v2 for a month...it has worked great..wasted about 20lbs of pla just to learn fusion...lolol....20lbs of pla is the key sentence, all of a sudden my adhesion layer peals up on the back stroke on the back side only..not the stroke moveing in the fan duck drection..i have OCD so i have done EVERYTHING on the intnerwebs.... I see a few fixes here ill try, BUT the question i am wondering is WHY IS THERE 1000S OF PEOPLE WITH THIS SAME COMPLAINT? "Ender was working fine then all of a sudden the first layer stop sticking"...... mabye we should takle that problem, instead of a work around....just seems funny that ALL OF A SUDDEN, it stops......?????????????

Lolololol...all the freakin bs talkin i do..read this..lol..this is what i did..if only i could return about -2xs the layer hieght....

Lolololol...all the freakin bs talkin i do..read this..lol..this is what i did..if only i could return about -2xs the layer hieght....

Right on! So first off i want to say i fully appreciate you, thanks for your offerings, dont mean to come off being an ass....im sure you worked hard on those cura apps u offered.......and as curious as i am to the help u offered, i still dont know two shits from my own.....lololol. you know? why we are even on this thing we call a "planet"...or a perfectly working spaceship and 3D printing is like connect 4 on a family vacation "trip" just to keep the kids busy till we got there...lololol..... So.....what i did was set up a beginning and and end to the gcode, i saved that back to back, added and extention pause/hieght, setting the extude and retract extrude to 0 because in the code it extruded and retracted that same amount, bla bla...dont know what deal was, i didnt get the blob that came out as it went back after restart..ive heard of this blob, im in the 2-4mm range and a blob isnt acceptable.. But anyway, i put the pause at hieght at the beginning of start,not before, after restart and on the line just above that i put a M300 to warn me when the end was near, then i could pull filiment out and press pause or just put filiment in as it set up for restart, i had plenty of time, extuder tip stays bout 165-185 unless paused..i just pause after beep, thats what we are after,RIGHT, a pause print, and a return to print without a fudge up...the only thing i cant understand is why is goes back to an z axis 2 layers higher then previous. So if at .12 layer hieght, before i return to print, i set to -2Xs that value so it would return to the z axis hieght...if i could fudge that...it would work perfectly....im sure most folk make sure that layers are mashing appropriately before leaving....but all in all it takes me about 5 minutes to make a 3 color change in gcode and im sure the printing process would be the same for most.....and im not kidding,,,, i have no to little confuser/computer knowledge, finding out how dumd i acully am...lol.. You can see the bloby mess on the return in this pic from 1am last night......and enders holds it rep., buy it and see if u can make it work....lollololol..

Got it!!!!! Fuel rail for a RC drag boat ive been wanting to build for 15 years.... Finish/start/extention Extension set to 0 values except x,y bed temp, and alarms, if wanted. Start up extudes all old color, 0 values takes care of blobby mess created from extension extuding process, i put a M600 just before ending Then, just after alarm, press pause, change color, and return to printing.. one thing, i had to adjust z axis about -2 times the layer hieght, i did this when it is paused, z axis is locked for the first pass for some reason... For this thing i set speed at 25% at restart to melt that first layer in.. seems to be as good as a straight print.. I think smaller isnt an option....lololol.

Took me literaly 3 days to figure this out.... good thing its winter and my dogs ear is ruptured or work might have gotten in the way of success...lololololol... Boss i backed into my boat trailor, wont be making it into work today, Is getting old..lololol

I am alittle scetchy bout downloading stuff from stangers into my computer.im sure ur a great guy..buuttt t To many "people apps" in the world...mabye ill get tired of my way and get it from you....but for now..i just accomplished a successful color change test print .....i did 2 extensions and even had the first one pull out 300mm of filiment, so all i had to do is load in the new, only purgeing the 2nd extension and placing that extension after the start up code.......guess now all i have to do is save this part and paste into my scrips replace the layer part with the right layer hight.....

Really.. mit in a bar... ok so am i kinda on the right mind set..is gcode kinda that revenge of the nerd computers graphics from way back?

Nother thing thats bugging me..how come v2 can pause by screen but cant by mother board...i think u tryed to explain that, but why not do somthing there. Makes no sense, it pauses, but it dosent pause..lololol...

Think bout that shit???? Now if a 45 year old that has no to little gcode knowledge except for the shit i think gcode is from back in the 80s with revenge of the nerds computer pictures i learned how to do in 2nd grade, im prety sure a group of very intelligent code writers code find a way to hack this shit into an app and fix this freakin problem!!! Or am i off topic? Me and ocd kinda go our own direction sometimes without general knowledge of what im talking about...lololololol .