MadNess69

I just printed my first print ever with TPU, UM TPU to be exact...wire tie from Thingiverse... Kept all the Cura settings... except split the temp difference and printed at 230C...the default speed was about 25/sec and I recall Gr5 has discussed printing TPU slowly...25 seemed to be fine for this simple print. The S3 printed it like an S3 prints everything ...fed properly, extruded properly, etc...smooooooth printing! Any flaws in the print are, of course, my mistakes...not the S3. I'm going to give the MH TPU a shot and see how it does -MadNess

Yeah...sorry man...my problem was of course being lazy modeling and not understanding the merge function...I know you know what's up with modeling and printing 😀 I was kind of shocked to see you asking rather than answering lol

Hey Greg- kmanstudios hooked me up with the same type of prob...I had text on a top surface getting printed every other layer inside...in Blender, I took the text and just dropped it partially inside the top, saved both separately, then into Cura... thinking that the Cura 'ignore internal geometry' would clean it up...didn't...kmanstudios said its an x/y/z prob from the modeling software. In Blender for example, I then snapped the text to the top face rather than inside it and then again saved both files as .stl separately. Import into Cura and both .stls have the Blender x/y/z information kind of baked in...merge both and the text snapped to the top and printed fine in 2 colors... I hope I'm not off base here...still learning myself so hope I helped. Cheers Madness

Thanks for the help! I was making a .3mf to upload and saw the reply. I'm just real lost now...I forgot to say its a 2 color print...so 2 objects... LOL-Solved @kmanstudios Thanks! Modelling prob, not Cura. I thought Cura ignored geometry inside and so I just sunk one .stl inside another in Blender... NO...I need to have the mesh of 1 .stl flush...not inside...the mesh of the 2nd .stl....xyz coords...got it ! I thought UncleDaddySwiss and I had the same type of prob... sorry, I did not mean to jump his thread. Thx tho

Hey, all... i have the same problem, but my letters are raised. Cura merges the 2 models I made in Blender but begins printing the words at the layer that my model orientation is in. In Blender, I took 2mm high letters and inserted them 1 mm inside a 3 mm disk. (so a 4mm high model) Exported and merged and it sliced the letters 1mm below the surface just as I had it in Blender (how do it know?). It prints a layer of letters, then a solid layer, then letters, etc. printing 1mm logo inside the disk and the remaining 1mm above the disk instead of waiting and just printing the top 1 mm on the surface of the disk. I went back to Blender and moved the logo up .5mm...still inside the disk, and Cura "knew" I had raised the logo and still printed the whole 2mm starting at whatever layer was .5mm below the top. How does Cura know what orientation my models are in Blender and why is it printing the hidden geometry. Im using an S3 so its a 2 color print...I Import the models individually and when I merge...its in the same orientation as Blender...magic!??!! So basically Cura is printing 2 full models and starting one inside the other. If I don't have the models in Blender in their proper places when I export each to stl, then Cura doesn't merge them right.. Ugh, long post, sorry- Thx- MadNess

Hey there! Dissolve two or three glue sticks in a small container of water... Heat bed to 60C+ I use a large foam brush and apply a thin layer of glue... As the glue quickly dries, the glass will become opaque. Dry sweep with the same brush to remove the bubbles and lines. Don't forget the extruder blob areas...the blob will come loose and it will drag thru the print...lol... Anytime you remove the print, the glue will come with it, so remember to reglue...I've aborted, fixed whatever and reprinted and forgot to reglue and of course it came loose... Cover the top for sure...I built mine out of PVC and a shower curtain, but I'm a heathen...UM has the cover and there are some 3rd party covers out there fairly cheap. 3-5 lines of brim for sure...Let's you also check the extrusion before before it starts the actual print. I've not found the need for more than 5 lines, really. I learned this somewhere in these forums 5 years ago when I had an UM2. I just returned to printing 6 weeks ago with the S3, use this method and I can pick up the machine by the print...for real...don't do it, lol, I think the build plate will give first. Hot and slow on the 1st layer...Cura has print 1st layer slower options. Hope this works for you- MadNess

Hello all- Best I can do with the Breakaway...the photos below are at Cura defaults...no retraction, etc...its stringy but is solid up to a certain height then the walls get holes and the breakaway becomes even worse...

The print core is clean, I switched out the Breakaway to ABS, no probs ...then ... Im reloading Cura, perhaps saved a setting somewhere. But, the first few layers are OK then it goes haywire and gets worse...

Ok- Ill check that, I was cleaning it and changing to ABS...thx

Morning, all- Ive had a horrible time printing Breakaway all of the sudden. I was printing nice solid models with it but now I cant stop what you see in the photos. temp 220C bed 105C 55mm/sec retract 7mm no coasting and I turned off z-hop which helped a bit but now I'm at a loss... after a while it finally gives the no filament error... Thx Much-MadNess

LOL NO DOUBT! Like Schroedinger's Cat...ABS is in all states of matter until you observe it...Stop observing and it reverts back to its stringy, random self! OMG we need a T Shirt ...

Hey there! I think I can help, but I use Blender, not SolidEdge, so bear with me. When I export from Blender to .stl, then load into Cura, the model is tiny, I get the warning, etc. The reason was explained in the Blender/Cura post I read, but the solution...in Blender ( I hope its similar for SolidEdge) there is are scale options when you export to .stl. Our scale will show 1.000 scale and we change it to 1000...hit enter, load .stl in Cura and it's the proper size. This is metric by the way... I haven't seen the need to figure it by inches. Anyway, I found that fix for Blender here in the Cura forums (Im pretty sure...lol) Hope this is what you need! -MadNess

Hello all! Now for my printhead problem... Printing ABS and Breakaway... 245C and 220C...40mm/sec The Breakaway head is in standby at 100C. Prior to switching it heats up, switches and prints. Too soon. I watched later, after I removed and replaced the clogged printhead, it starts printing the Breakaway at 196C and the ABS at 203 (on this particular print and model orientation). Moving a model as far to the left as I can on the glass gives the head temp time to heat up during the switching travel, but I am still trying to figure out my machine and was clueless at this point. My extruders are not working right so I thought it wasn't feeding and I gave it the panic technique of manually pushing the filament into the head....oops. The Breakaway was still cold in the nozzle and I pushed the soft material into a coil between the top of the print head and the lift switch....yeah, the machine didn't do that...Fbrc8 is doing a free refurb on the head for me... out of pity, most likely. Anyway...the extruder ground the filament to shreds...no where to go because the nozzle was too cold...and Fbrc8 helped me extract the print head. Got it all up and running and found that timing issue with the nozzle temps. I don't want to start printing before the nozzle heats up completely. I saw the Cura settings for the temp differential, but didn't understand it completely so here I am hoping to understand this problem a bit better. Thanks-MadNess

Hello All Back to printing after 5 years and glad to be back in the UM community! I bought a UM 2 in 2015 and I learned to print on these forums. Comforting to come back and see the same folks active. I hope to contribute with my passion for 3d stuff. So... I got back into 3d modelling and got my S3 two weeks or so ago. It's amazing, but seems to be broken... I'm in the US and I bought a refurbished S3 from Dynamism, (fantastic reseller, fast, established, warranty, money back guarantee, etc.) and its manufactured by the well known, but mysterious Illuminarti at Fbrc8. So...with those two companies and these forums, I am stress free about any issues with the S3...they will be taken care of, without a doubt. Already working with Fbrc8 this week and we are about to get this beast of a printer back in shape. Anyway, I'm a UM fan but going to need a bit of help. My S3 is twitchy bad, from burnt printhead nozzels out of the box to leveling errors, extruder failures, filament change errors, etc...all after producing a UM quality print of up to 5 hours (my longest print on this machine so far). When it prints, and it does, it it prints like a UM. It might be that this machine got missed in the refurb process, which happens...that's life. Pretty sure that I could get a new refurbished machine with no problems but I've touched this one... I know what it sounds like, how it "feels"...sappy, I know, but this machine will get a super refurb and I will be a better printer for it. Thx in advance...I need help with the cooldown and heatup of the nozzels during dual printing ( wrecked an AA core that is going to Fbrc8 in the morning). Ill get into that in a second post. -MadNess