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bassamanator

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Everything posted by bassamanator

  1. I'm getting this error: Could not probe OpenGL. This program requires OpenGL 2.0 or higher. Please check your video card drivers. I've been using Cura for 2 years on this machine and currently Cura 4.13.1 is running fine. How do I fix this issue? Thanks!
  2. What about the rest of the layers? How would I change the startup gcode so that it changes the temperature for layers 2 on wards to the default print temperature?
  3. No matter what I do, I can't get the first layer to print at the specified temperature, 270C in this case. If I set Printing Temperature to 270C, it prints at 270C throughout the print. I've also tried setting Initial Printing Temperature to 270C at the same time also and that doesn't work either. What gives? Using Cura 4.10.1. Thanks! Start G-code ; Script based on an original created by tjjfvi (https://github.com/tjjfvi) ; An up-to-date version of the tjjfvi's original script can be found ; here: https://csi.t6.fyi/ ; Note - This script will only work in Cura V4.2 and above! ; --- Global Settings ; layer_height = {layer_height} ; smooth_spiralized_contours = {smooth_spiralized_contours} ; magic_mesh_surface_mode = {magic_mesh_surface_mode} ; machine_extruder_count = {machine_extruder_count} ; --- Single Extruder Settings ; speed_z_hop = {speed_z_hop} ; retraction_amount = {retraction_amount} ; retraction_hop = {retraction_hop} ; retraction_hop_enabled = {retraction_hop_enabled} ; retraction_enable = {retraction_enable} ; retraction_speed = {retraction_speed} ; retraction_retract_speed = {retraction_retract_speed} ; retraction_prime_speed = {retraction_prime_speed} ; speed_travel = {speed_travel} G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off ;*** Start preheating *** M140 S{material_bed_temperature} ; start preheating the bed WITHOUT wait to what is set in Cura M104 S{material_print_temperature} T0 ; start preheating hotend WITHOUT wait to what is set in Cura G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops M190 S{material_bed_temperature} ; start heating the bed to what is set in Cura and WAIT M109 S{material_print_temperature} T0 ; start heating hotend to what is set in Cura and WAIT ;*** End preheating *** M300 S1000 P500 ; BEEP heating done G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops M420 S1 ; Enable leveling M420 Z5.0 ; Set leveling fading height to 5 mm G1 Z15.0 F{speed_travel} ;move the platform down 15mm G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F{speed_travel} G0 Y20 F{speed_travel} M900 K0.05 M117 Printing... G5
  4. Have you posted this rant before elsewhere? Would love to read it. Is there a different way to calibrate flow because the hollow cube is the only method that I've encountered. I'll look into the gcode. Definitely nothing related to belts. As I said, in the past, the nozzle would start 'drawing' the walls of the cube and not stop till it finished. Now, it does these non printing moves at every layer.
  5. To calculate the appropriate flow rate, I add a calibration cube and enable spiralize outer contour. What used to happen was that after the bottom layers were printed, the nozzle would start printing the walls of the cube without any 'breaks'. The nozzle would start printing the outer wall (only 1 wall) in a smooth and continuous fashion. Now, however, the nozzle does these moves that don't stay on the wall (I believe it does these moves for z layer changes). This also results in flow cubes that look really bad; my previous ones used to be perfect. I'm using the same settings as before so what gives? EDIT: using cura 4.10.0.
  6. I, too, noticed the under-extrusion that you're talking about. The e-steps are calibrated but the flow rate could have been off. It was a frustrating time for me and this particular STL became my goto test piece, it would fail 100% of the time, and it's possible I might have rushed through some settings. I'm far from perfect/good calibration, which I'll be doing using your tool and Teaching Tech's acceleration tuning gcode generator. But in the meantime, I remembered what another MK4 user had told, he halved his X axis acceleration. I've done the same (M201 X3000.00 >> M201 X1500.00) and have printed several pieces at 100+mm/s, completely issue free. One thing I still don't get is why the layer shifts were happening along the Y axis. I would have expected them to happen along the X axis because the heavier printhead moves along this axis. Upping the Y stepper motor driver did not help at all, as I mentioned earlier. I have to say this direct drive upgrade (I call it an upgrade because it's cleared up room on my work desk and has made the filament changing process so much quicker) has been an enormous learning experience for me. I remember seeing the MK4 back in late March, when I first started printing, and it was an impossible upgrade; the thing came with a 5 page instruction PDF (which I now see as a god send). Now I feel confident that I could put together a Voron, using the many guides out there of course.
  7. @GregValiant So, I got this tool working now with your instructions, and what can I say, this tool is like magic. The thing is, I'm not sure what data I should be gathering from it. For example, I set Accel to 500/500, Jerk to 10/10, speed to 150mm/s, and did the Nascar race (after qualifying). The printhead moved around smoothly. Is that the test? Should I be listening for strange sounds/skipping belts? If that is the case, and I find that anything over 500/500 and 10/10 cause the belts to skip, would I then do a M204 P500.00 R500.00 T500.00 M205 X10 Y10 My current acceleration settings are: M201 X3000.00 Y2000.00 Z60.00 E10000.00 M204 P1500.00 R1500.00 T3000.00 Thanks again!
  8. Update: I've upped the voltage for my stepper drivers to 1.15V (which is in fact the voltage that is recommended by users of my printer, it's just that with my bowden setup I was able to keep voltage at 1.0V). I am able to print at 60 mm/s issue free. I've realized that I've been a very silly boy. I somehow equated direct drive with greater print speeds and I don't think that is the case. My printhead is now roughly 140 g heavier and I'm expecting it to print at the same speeds (100-150 mm/s) as when the printhead was lighter. It was very silly of me to think that. @GregValiant Thanks for the detailed explanation and for the tool itself. I will be using it extensively to see if I can increase print speed. It's not so much that I'm a speed junky, it's more that I enjoy tinkering, and getting as much value as is possible out of the things that I own. If I may ask you 2 short questions. Am I correct in my thinking, that with a roughly ~140 g heavier printhead, the theoretical maximum print speed of my printer has been reduced? Do you think that bigger/taller stepper motors would be able to handle greater speeds with this heavier printhead? In any case, I'm considering this issue resolved.
  9. Grrr I thought this issue was solved but not quite. Increasing voltage to the stepper drivers didn't help as much as I thought it did.
  10. @GregValiant Unfortunately, I couldn't figure out this tool. I only managed to getting it up and running. In any case, what should I do in theory? I know that the skip always happens along the y-axis, so should I change the Y jerk setting? Or is it something else? I just don't know where to start. Here is the relevant output from M503: Recv: echo:; Maximum feedrates (units/s): Recv: echo: M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z6.00 E30.00 Recv: echo:; Maximum Acceleration (units/s2): Recv: echo: M201 X3000.00 Y2000.00 Z60.00 E10000.00 Recv: echo:; Acceleration (units/s2): P<print_accel> R<retract_accel> T<travel_accel> Recv: echo: M204 P1500.00 R1500.00 T3000.00 Recv: echo:; Advanced: B<min_segment_time_us> S<min_feedrate> T<min_travel_feedrate> X<max_x_jerk> Y<max_y_jerk> Z<max_z_jerk> E<max_e_jerk> Recv: echo: M205 B20000.00 S0.00 T0.00 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00
  11. The layer shifts are occurring along the Y axis. The following are 3 different prints of the same part. Note, most parts print just fine, this piece in particular is giving me a hard time but there is nothing with the piece/gcode itself, it's simply highlighting the underlying problem. I believe this layer shifting is happening because the printhead is heavier now and getting it moving from a standstill is difficult. I'm going to use Teaching Tech's calibration page but I would appreciate some guidance. In the meantime, I'm going to do a print a reduced Print jerk setting in cura (5 mm/s instead of 10 mm/s). Thanks! Anycubic Mega S. Knutwurst's firmware based on Marlin 2.0.x. I used to print at 150 mm/s with my bowden setup, in fact, all the pieces for my direct drive were printed at 100-150 mm/s. Using Linear Advance 1.5. Belts are all well tightened (not too tight, of course).
  12. Got it. I think it's best if I just print these pieces separately, as in separate gcode files. I just thought that this was a bug. Thanks.
  13. These pieces are obviously printing one at a time. I don't see why the cylindrical piece can't print first and then the blockish piece second. But I'm obviously missing something here. :/
  14. So it still might be possible to do. Will look into it further. Thanks!
  15. Anycubic Mega S I'm using a customized firmware that's based on Marlin 2.0.x.
  16. Hi there, I'm able to turn on the part cooling fan via M106 P0 S255 When I try the same command with P indexes from 1 to 5, the heatsink cooling fan doesn't turn on. The fan is functional because it does turn on automatically when the hotend is heated. Thanks!
  17. I just wanted to make sure I have this right. Let's assume the nozzle is touching the bed right now. The distance between the bed and the bottom of the rod is 32 mm. So my Gantry Height would be 32 mm? If that is the case then the Gantry Height is the vertical distance between the tip of the nozzle and the rod holding the printhead? Thanks!
  18. Also wanted to add, Octoprint connects just fine to the printer.
  19. @Torgeir @wjbdesign @gr5 @GregValiant All of you have given me much to think about. Thanks! I have done a few more things: -flow rate has been adjusted to 95%. I am confident in this value. -the gantry (I think that's what it's called; the thing that moves the nozzle up/down on the Z-axis) was slightly lopsided. It is now square. I will check it again after printing. -the print head does not wobble. I need to check a few more things that were mentioned. Will report back. Adjusting the flow rate has had a significant positive effect btw. To be fair to the printer, I'm not unhappy with most of the prints, I just think there's room for improvement. Appreciate all the wisdom guys/gals.
  20. I printed a little box that didn't come out as nice as I had hoped for: So I thought that maybe this was all related to the TMC2209 stepper motor drivers I had installed so I decided to switch them back. But before that I printed the cylinder on the right (2209) and after switching to the stock drivers I printed the cylinder (same gcode file was used) on the left. All the bumps/pits are identical on both prints so much so that if this was a court case, there would be a conviction: It's hard to see in the picture but I'm not exaggerating in how identical the bumps/pits are on these 2 prints. https://imgur.com/a/UndkR46 I've done the following: -temperature tower: 215C. I'm confident in this value. -retraction tower: 5mm. I'm confident in this value. -I also calibrated the extruder. It does extrude the correct amount. I'm going to try the following: -revert back to official firmware -switch out the nozzle as soon as my wrench set gets here. What more can I do to clear up these prints? Thanks! davidramiro v1.4.6 firmware (Marlin 1.1.9) Anycubic Mega S Sliced on Cura 4.8.0 on Manjaro Ubuntu connected to printer Octoprint
  21. I'm unable to connect Cura to my printer. I've tried sudo adduser xxx dialout sudo usermod -a -G dialout xxx Neither help (I replaced xxx with my username of course). I have to boot into windows to update firmware which is annoying. Anything else to be tried? Thanks! davidramiro v1.4.6 firmware (Marlin 1.1.9) Anycubic Mega S Cura 4.8.0 Octoprint Ubuntu connected to printer
  22. @GregValiant I'll keep the Z Seam Alignment in mind for my next print. I have calibrated my extruder; it extrudes 100mm (+/- 1mm, this is the closest I can manage) when told to do so. I have also adjusted the flow rate. I'll report back on my next print. Thanks all!
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