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  1. Good to know! This would be for a high heat and repeated shock use case so all relevant info. Thank You!
  2. I am new to Ultimaker and have the S5. I came from an Ultimaker clone background where I had to tweak far more than I ever printed usable product. The S5 I have is simply perfect just accepting the defaults. The only issues I have had is finding best practices for build plate adhesion. The S5 and S3 will be "boring" because all you will do with them is print. The actual printer kind of fades into the background as it should. I have had such great success with difficult materials like ABS and Nylon that now that is all I print in! PLA is for toys
  3. I am very intrigued with Nylon G. After recent success with regular Nylon, the Glass fiber filled variant fits better with a project currently using ABS. The problem is when I look at the output in Cura, the CC 0.60mm nozzle makes thin walls disappear and holes appear. This would be unacceptable in the part as it is a end use part and not a prototype or reference. I see I can buy the 0.40mm ruby nozzles on Amazon BUT! Do I want too? Does 0.40mm compromise the material's properties? Does it just look ugly? Thanks for the help! Maybe th
  4. I love my new S5. The print quality is exceptional. But, I have discovered a simple design "issue." The issue is when printing close to the center front of the build plate with ABS. I was having adhesion problems so I found Magigoo for ABS. Works like a charm! Except, center front of the build plate. I have solved this with blue painters tape. The issue is the air manager pulls cold air right in through the gap in between the two doors. If you have anything thin right in that area to back about 2 inches it will peel up, Magigoo or no Magigoo. Ultimaker folks
  5. Actually, Magigoo for PLA and ABS is just spectacular! I am continuing to evaluate but so far the prints are perfect (well, 3D printer perfect). It sticks ABS really well and I haven't had any warping on the bottom layers and I have been printing gears and thin things purposely. Its just perfectly smooth. If I can skip the PEI using Magigoo then I am happy. Personally, I have never had a great deal of success with ABS but if this continues my new favorite material is ABS. The fact that once it cools the print is just sitting on the plate, no longer attached
  6. Ugh, still in trials with the printer. I just solved the adhesion to glass problem (and everything is turning out pretty nice. Using the default profile at .2mm there is a larger variance than my prior printer but I don't think it is a squareness issue. Thanks for the help. I will keep and eye on it.
  7. Thanks for the video link. Not sure why theirs works and mine doesn't but that is ok! I have gone and purchased a bunch of different products off Amazon. One of them will have to work 😛
  8. I am having a ton of failed prints. The print won't stick and starts peeling, eventually just coming off and becoming a big blob. My other printers are all heated bed with PEI. With most materials you are just printing after removing any oils or debris. Things like PETG and PC you are using a glue stick so it doesn't become a permanent part of the PEI sheet. Now all I have is a glass plate with this S5. It has been a huge adjustment. I am a noob so I am not understanding why the raw glass is better than PEI. I finally got one ABS print to succeed but I did t
  9. Ah! Ok, makes sense. I had to ask. I had to to reassemble the printer's guts before I could do my first print. The constant dropping during shipping popped off every single long belt and the head was flopping around inside. I was worried I messed something up or something was broken. Thanks!
  10. I might have my X and Y axis messed up, I apologize for the confusion!
  11. I had my S5 + Air Manager delivered yesterday. It was not handled with care. The Ultimaker team that designed the packaging needs to come to the USA. I assume in Europe the delivery folks deliver the package like a new born baby. Not so here in the USA. See "Ace Ventura Pet Detective" package delivery scene for reference. Anyways... The Y axis motor (the motor to the left when viewed from the front) is making a metallic clicking sound at the same place in every revolution, forwards and backwards. If this metallic click was produced by play in the bearings it
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