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kupfeli

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Posts posted by kupfeli

  1. So, I finally have a Script that works for me and probably you will laugh 😉

     

    So I have a Blink Camera in my Cellar where the Printer is at. It has motion detection, so I thought: let's just turn the lights of the printer off at layer 1 and then on at a certain layer where I am about to change Material for double color prints.

    To my enjoyment I can say it works and I get a notification from my camera when the lights go on, so I then rush to the Cellar, wait a bit before my Pause code runs and then push the Pause button on the Ultimaker.

    Now my question: if I create such a creative solution, then why the ... can't you guys at Ultimaker just simply create a Pause at layer function? It is totally easy, just a custom M command to pause and done, I hope you guys will implement this, so I don't need my weird workarounds for functionality for an expensive printer that cheap printers already implemented a long time ago. Thanks 🙂

    • Like 1
  2. Hi all!

     

    I was wondering, I can find the sourcecode of Ultimaker 2 and Ultimaker 2+, but not for the Ultimaker 2+ Connect.
    Where is this repository located on Github? Or is it closed source?

     

    I just want to check some things and potentially correct some things and rebuild the firmware (lose warranty, but I don't care) and install it. Is that possible?

    I paid a big price for the connect and I want to introduce Pause functionality myself as the Connect does not get alot of attention from Ultimaker anymore, so I want to improve it myself, if that is possible.

     

    Thanks in advance!

  3. Here is the snippet that works perfectly:

     

    old_x=re.findall(r'(X[0-9][0-9]*\.?[0-9]*)',data[layer_num-1])
                        old_y=re.findall(r'(Y[0-9][0-9]*\.?[0-9]*)',data[layer_num-1])
                        old_z=re.findall(r'(Z[0-9][0-9]*\.?[0-9]*)',data[layer_num-1])
                        if len(old_x) == 0:
                            raise Exception('No previous X position found, cant create correct Pause code!')
                        if len(old_y) == 0:
                            raise Exception('No previous Y position found, cant create correct Pause code!')
                        if len(old_z) == 0:
                            raise Exception('No previous Z position found, cant create correct Pause code!')
                        
                        pause_code = ";BEGIN Ultimaker 2+ Connect Emulated Pause plugin\n"
                        pause_code = pause_code + "G0 F6000 X10 Y10 Z100\n"
    
                        i = 0
                        travel_count = 10
                        while i < travel_count:
                            pause_code = pause_code + "G0 F2400 X50\n"
                            pause_code = pause_code + "G0 F2400 Y50\n"
                            pause_code = pause_code + "G0 F2400 X10\n"
                            pause_code = pause_code + "G0 F2400 Y10\n"            
                            i += 1                    
                        pause_code = pause_code + "G0 F6000 " + old_x[len(old_x)-1] + " " + old_y[len(old_y)-1] + " " + old_z[len(old_z)-1]+"\n"
                        pause_code = pause_code + ";END Ultimaker 2+ Connect Emulated Pause plugin\n"                        
                        old_data = data[layer_num]
                        data[layer_num] = pause_code + old_data

     

    Obviously I could also go into relative mode instead of storing the old absolute position, but the problem is that this doesn't work when you pause the print by pressing on the touchscreen, before the set to absolute mode is restored, you will then run into a ER206 because the firmware does not correctly handle this situation (it does not restore to the relative mode and instead goes into absolute mode and then potentially the given coordinates are outside the build volume. Ultimaker should correct this in my opinion.

  4. Hi all,

     

    I have noticed a severe bug in the Ultimaker 2+ Connect Pause and Resume functionality.

    Pausing works (question: when is a pause actually performed in the gcode? What does the Engine wait for before it finally pauses the print after pressing the touchscreen??), but when I perform a resume, all of a sudden instead of printing circles (I was printing a Cylinder) of the outside, the printer is "stitching" a pattern, so it makes circles in a stuttering motion which results in a terrible outer surface. So basically instead of doing a smooth circle, it makes a stuttering movement in a circular pattern.

    I assume that after resume, the printer did not restore all settings stored when pausing the print.

     

    This makes it completely impossible for pausing and resuming a print.

     

    Help solving this problem (maybe I am doing something wrong?) is much appreciated!!

  5. I also have the same problems, but the print quality and much more important: the print RELIABILITY is soooo good with the UM2+ Connect, I just love it.

    I can simply run a job during the night and dont have to be worried to find spaghetti in the morning.

    Reliable prints, each and every time, that is ... when using Cura and without fiddling around with settings yourself. Cura default settings are perfect, almost for all situations.

     

    What I totally dislike about the Connect: the lack of the features you are describing and the lack of material change gcode commands, but then again, reliability is more important for me.

  6. So, basically I needed a pause at layer script for my Ultimaker 2+ Connect, to be able to start printing in a different color from a specific layer.

    Well, as the Connect is a very closed product (for a reason, but I believe it is too closed tbh!), there are no pause functions available, no material change etcetera.

     

    So I decided to take the FilamentChange Script and created my own emulated pause script, that simply moves to a certain location, makes some box shapes and in the mean time you can pause the print and after the resume the printer head resumes to the saved position. Let me know if you want the code, it seems to work quite well for my purposes.

  7. On 8/18/2022 at 1:17 PM, Nico04 said:

    I've spent some time exploring the Filament Change and Pause at Height features on my UM2C.

    Unfortunately it's not very well hanlded as you guys suggested, but at the end I found an "OK" solution.

     

     

    Here is a summary of my tests (Fimware 1.5.2, Cura 5.1) :

     

    - Pause at height
      - Marlin (M0)   => ✓~
      - Griffin (M0)  => ✗✗
      - BQ (M25)      => ✓~
      - RepRap (M226) => ✓~
      - Repetier/OctoPrint (@pause) => ✓~
    - Filament change
      - Firmware conf => ✗✗
      - Marlin (M600) => ✗✗
      - RepRap (M600) => ✗✗

     

    ✓~ : Travel only : priter just travels in park position then returns to work immediatly
    ✗✗ : Ignored by printer

     

    So to recap, Filament Change is just totally ignored, but some of the Pause at Height commands do something.

    So at the end, because the pause button on the screen works quite well (we can even change the filament), I use one of theses pause command to notify me when to manually tap the pause button (the traveling of the gcode pause command does a different motor noise). It's clearly not ideal, but it's works.

     


    I've talked with the Ultimaker support to have more information about this, and here are some quotes of their answers :

     


    So maybe it will come in a futur firmware release 🙂

    Thanks alot for sharing this with us !! 🙂

  8. 1 hour ago, Torgeir said:

    Hi @kupfeli,

     

    The heat bed is a floating heater element, so no need to select polarity here. Also, the text mean input 24 V with current (needed minimum) 7.5 Amp.

     

    The PT100 (platinum sensor) is also a floating "resistor", -so neither this connection is polarity required.

     

    As you ordered all stuff for the bed, why not just change all?

     

    In the past, there was "some" problem with the connection of the high power wires to the bed. There was a few problem with the bed sensor PT100, that's not much of a problem anymore.

     

    But for folks using this "exotic" high temperature filament, things really put those components to the the edge and may expect some more error as shorter life span for those items is sure to be seen.

     

     

    Hope this help.

     

    Thanks

    Torgeir

     

    Hi Torgeir,

     

    Thank you very much for your terrific answer!! I will now swap out the heatbed and the cable and will then go and try to print something.

    Will edit my post when I have result that can also benefit others.

     

    Thanks again very much!!

     

    EDIT: Yes, my problem is solved on my Ultimaker 2+ Connect!!!

    The bed is getting hotter than ever (not too hot, but 60 degrees is already quite hot), I havent had the bed this hot before and the cooling down works again, it does not hang anymore and no ER203 error anymore (I had that error sometimes).

    Probably the bed was already not functioning correctly a while ago.

    • Like 1
  9. Sorry for replying to an old topic, but this is the same problem I have.

    I ordered a new bed and new cable, does it matter if I swap the thick cables? Same question for the sensor cable. So I mean, can I swap the plus and minus simply? Probably not, but I cant see which of the thick cable goed where, to 24V or the 7.5 A

  10. Hi there!

     

    I have a problem with my Ultimaker 2+ Connect, the heatbed is not heating up consistently anymore. With the latest version of Cura and all defaults active I created a slice of a model using Ultimaker PLA White as the material.

    As the gcode flavour Griffin is used (per default), but also when using Marlin or adding bed heating gcode manually, the same problem occurs.

    I am using a bed temperature of 60 degrees.

     

    When I load the UFP file in the printer and start the printing process, I feel the bed and sometimes it heats up, but most of the time it does not and stays at room temperature or only a tiny bit higher.

    Then the nozzle starts heating and after the nozzle is heated up, the print starts but with a too cold bed.

     

    I have taken out the bed completely, unclamped the cables from the mainboard and tested the cables for breakage (using a multimeter) and are well and the soldering is perfect too.

    The PT100 also shows resistance in the 100 Ohms range, so that is working fine.

     

    I reconnected the cables, started the print again and it was still not working.

     

    I did a factory reset multiple times, even change material to Generic PLA, always made sure that the material configured in the printer settings matches the UFP config, I reinstalled the latest 1.5 firmware, but still nothing.

     

    Only thing I can think of is that the bed heating wires are broken somehow and it does not heatup anymore, or there is a failure on the mainboard, but I am lost.

    I dont have a 24V/7.5A battery or adapter, so I cant test it manually.

     

    Does anyone have any clues for me what I can try out? It is also quite annoying that you cant heatup the bed from the menu or see the temperature.


    Thanks in advance, before buying a new bed I want to be sure that the bed is broken of course.

     

    UPDATE: The bed was heating up again once and it hung in the cooldown phase (the cooldown menu would not go away). That means the heatbed is fine but there must be a problem on the mainboard maybe? This is so annoying, not being to able to diagnose the error and the diagnostic logging does not give any errors.

     

    UPDATE 2: After switching the machine off and on again (as it did want to print anymore after the cooldown hung) and starting the print again, the cooldown was again skipped and the machine started printing on a cold bed. Same print file that did heat up the first time.

    I really dont know what is wrong here. This printer is only 8 months old and I printed very little.

    I also see the LEDs flickering a bit sometimes, but not turning off, as if there is a power problem or something. I already checked all cables and there is nothing loose.

     

    All ideas how to diagnose my problem are very welcome!!! I really hope someone can help me …

  11. Could someone please help me out?

     

    So the problem I have does not have anything to do with the gcode flavour. My heatbed simply sometimes heats up and most of the times it doesnt.

    I checked all the cables, also on the mainboard. All is correct, but still the bed does not heat up, only to room temperature.

     

    Also adding gcode commands to manually heat the bed dont work.

     

    Is there anything I can do? Add a connector somewhere and read out information from the board? Debug something? I also wrote the diagnose log files to disk, nothing weird.

     

    Please help!! Thank you 🙂

  12. 22 hours ago, Smithy said:

    Griffin should work, it is working fine with my UM2+C printer:

     

    image.thumb.png.72383c7a5eec37a017cfa00c1c58c6d3.png

     

    I had exactly the same settings and in the printer I selected Ultimaker PLA White, but the bed was only heated to about room temperature I would say.

    That is something I am really missing on the Ultimaker 2+ Connect: there is no function in the menu to set or display the current bed temperature.

    So yeah, only Marlin and reprap is working for me now and I insert the G280 manually if I want to prime.

    I also did a factory reset, but that didnt help, maybe there is something wrong with the material profiles stored on the printer, but a factory reset should have fixed that I guess.

    Last thing I am trying is selecting Generic PLA in Cura and on the printer and then hopefully it works.

  13. 39 minutes ago, Smithy said:

    Good to hear you are back in business printing 🙂 

    Yes I thought so to, but I was happy prematurely 😞

    slicing in cura using Griffin as the gcode flavor does not generate bed heating up code, only comments are added that probably get interpreted (bed temperature comments), but only simplify3d gives me consistent results now 😞
    Griffin is the flavor i should use for the Ultimaker 2+ Connect though …

     

    Ok, so now I understand that Griffin flavor lets the machine retrieve the bed temperature from the material profile set in the printer. That is probably where I made the mistake.

    I will just use marlin or reprap flavour, to prevent the machine from using the incorrect bed temp when I forgot to set the correct material

  14. 5 minutes ago, utopiah said:

    @kupfeli I'm genuinely confused here. Are you suggesting ssh should instead be disabled on other models?

     

    PS: I would consider unearthing a 5 months old topic bad etiquette if it's not actually helpful.

    Oh I am terribly sorry! I did not take a look at the dates! I am also quite new on this Forum, just wanted to share some opinions, but did not want to unearth an old topic.

  15. 10 minutes ago, Smithy said:

    One more thing:

    We talk about PLA or something else? For example PETG oozes much more than PLA.

    Yep, PLA! Hmmm, well I used default settings for Ultimaker PLA White and only changed layer height settings and speeds actually. It is weird.
    Unfortunately now I have a much bigger problem, my heatbed is not heating up enough anymore and the cooling down hangs. Maybe a sensor defect or loose wires or something, annoying, probably have to take some things apart 😞
    Already did a factory reset, did not help unfortunately.

  16. I have a question. In Cura 4.12.1 which I am using, the machine settings of my Ultimaker 2+ Connect is automatically set to gcode flavour Griffin.

    Now, this leads to the generated gcode not creating G140 and G190 commands to heat up and respectively wait for heating up the bed.

    Though, I see when using Griffin that the comment ';BUILD_PLATE.INITIAL_TEMPERATURE:65' is there and not on the Marlin version.

    Now does this get interpreted by the Ultimaker and translated into a G140 and G190 command?

  17. 14 minutes ago, GregValiant said:

    "Also, I would recommend people NOT to use post-processing scripts at all, or only use it when you know what you are doing. Maybe make it an Expert only section for instance, that you can only access when you start Cura in Expert mode?"

     

    Ouch!  Probably 90% of what I've learned about Cura has come from experimenting with things.  It's how I went from not knowing anything to knowing just enough to be dangerous.

    There are visibility settings that limit a users view, but not their access, to commands.  A user can select from 4 levels of settings visibility.

    I have two post-processors that I almost never shut-off.  By experimenting with the ".py" files I was able to alter them just a bit to make them more in tune with what I need.  My personal PauseAtHeight is configured to fill in all the boxes with MY defaults rather than Cura's generic defaults.

    I don't know much about Ultimaker printers but I'm fairly familiar with the Chinese crap (excuse me) printers.  Some don't support G2/G3 and some do.  Some don't support M0, or M1 but some do.  As far as I know most printers do not support a command that would query the printer and inform a user regarding exactly which G and M commands are actually enabled in the firmware.  

    I agree with you there and I also learn by experimenting and I like that. But, for a project I am doing now, I needed some functionality where I just wanted to deliver quickly and then I found out that most of the post-processing scripts don't work on the Ultimaker 2+ Connect and then I found out that the Ultimaker has its own startup and finish scripts to deliver consistent behaviour, but it can also collide with own written gcode (which I experienced in the form of stalls where the logging did not give any clue), so for that specific printer, it is better NOT to use the post-processing at all.

    I write my own gcode snippets after Cura did its thing, but make sure I write this code somewhere in the middle, so I don't interfere with startup and finalizing gcode embedded in the machine.

    As Cura is basically an Ultimaker specific slicer, it would be wise to warn people when they are trying to do things that can also damage there precious and rather expensive machine, but that is just my opinion.

    The Ultimaker is not a "nerd" machine, so the software should also reflect that imho.

  18. In my experience: if the 3D Printer is a tool for you (just like a hammer etcetera) and you want to focus on modelling and just need the same consistent results, the Ultimaker 2+ Connect is perfect and should be marketed as such!

    If you are a hacker and like to tinker alot with 3D printers and you just like to tweak every aspect of it: don't buy an Ultimaker, they are not geared towards the hacker market.

     

    Friends of mine have Prusa's, Dremel, Anycubic and more of these and to be honest: NONE of them come even close to the consistency the Ultimaker 2+ Connect delivers WITHOUT any tinkering.

    It's always fooling around with steppers, changing hardware for better consistency etcetera. Some of em print very well the first few prints and then all of a sudden aligment issues etcetera.

    I don't like that, for me a printer is a tool, so ... anyone reading this: make your decision based on what you need and don't bash a system because YOU made the wrong decision 😉

    • Like 1
  19. For some reason, my Ultimaker 2+ Connect starts to spit out some material before it starts the priming process (the little priming blob).

    So a strand of about 10 cm (sometimes even 20 cm) comes out and then the printer starts the priming. This is terribly annoying, as I need

    to manually remove that material before the blob.

     

    Is this normal behaviour, or does it have to do with some kind of over-pressure in the nozzle that makes it push out some material?

     

    Sometimes it doesn't happen, but most of the time it does unfortunately.

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