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FRabe

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  1. I have had fairly good success by tweaking the "hole expansion" setting in Cura. I do use this in combination with the "horizontal expansion" settings as well as the outside of my parts were coming out oversized slightly. If redesigning the part isn't an option on something, this is a good place to start. I work in a design engineering office where the other designers are used to dimensioning for machining tolerances, and sometimes I do have to print parts that will later be machined (out of metals), so we cannot specifically dimension the models for the effects of 3D printing. This is where the settings mentioned earlier come in. I still have to drill out holes for press fit items, but they are very close to start, and often can be drilled with a pin vise instead of a full powered drill.
  2. I've been a hairspray (aquanet) guy since I started printing on glass. One spray after a warm water wipe down seems to give me 10-20 print cycles before needing reapplication. I mostly use PLA+, and this seems to do the job pretty well. Sometimes I will get some peeling on prints that have a large flat footprint, but that usually doesn't affect what I am looking for in the print. Glad you found a solution for yourself, and happy printing.
  3. Print in place parts are always a tough task for any printer. Fortunately Cura (at least the newer versions) has an adjustment that can really improve dimensional accuracy. You may have to search and turn them on, but I know they are available when "Expert" settings are selected. There are 3 of them, and all can be found by searching "expansion". Horizontal Expansion is the first of the 3. This adjust all polygons in a layer to "shrink" or "expand" them. Negative values will bring polygons in towards the meat of the part (smaller outer dimensions, larger inner dimensions). I have this set to -0.125mm. Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion is next. This functions the same as the first setting, but only on the initial layer. I have this set to -0.2mm to get rid of "elephants foot". Last is Hole Horizontal Expansion. This is another similar setting but only applies to "holes" in the part. This setting also is valued inversely, so positive values give larger inner diameters, and negative values will shrink holes. I have this set to +0.15mm. These settings give me the best dimensional accuracy that I have found. I am usually within +-0.1mm tolerance. These settings may or may not work with what you are trying, but will give you a starting point. With a pair of calipers and some calibration models, you can adjust from stock, or from these values as needed.
  4. The types of infill that are normally reserved for flexible filament might suit you best as far as not trapping water as much within the infill. Gyroid, and Cross 3D appear to have the least amount of pockets (when compared with triangles, cubic, or other traditional infills), but your shell is always going to print solid, or near solid. What print material are you using? If you have good layer adhesion the parts should come out very near watertight as is. Adding additional wall lines can aid in this. I have only used PVA on one trial run, but had no noticeable issues with water getting trapped in the parts. These parts had 4 wall lines @0.35mm width and seemed to be completely watertight. Our issue came with how slow dissolving the PVA was. Perhaps because we didn't get water inside of our parts because we didn't soak, but instead ran the parts under warm water and scrubbed to remove the PVA. The shape of the model will also play a part in how water tight the part is. Do you have pictures of the parts you produced, or an STL where I could play with settings?
  5. @bladerunner2205, are the X and Y axes square to each other? I took delivery of three S5 bundles last year, and two of them had issues with squareness. This could be affecting the sizes depending on how out of square they are. This can occur in initial shipping. thing:3044638 on thingiverse is what I used to remedy this, and after adjusting the horizontal expansion and horizontal hole expansion in the slice, I have got down to +-0.1mm on X and Y, which after reading online is about as tight as you can get with FDM tech. Another thing to check would be belt tension, just incase. https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011529340-Check-the-tension-of-Ultimaker-S5-short-belts is a good guide for this. Would love to continue to hear how your efforts go. Cheers.
  6. @monomonster, this looks like the 3d printing defect known as ringing. It is generally caused by vibrations that come from the moving components of a printer. Belts that are too loose are a common cause. Does this happen on both the X and Y oriented faces, or just one or the other? A high print speed can also cause this to happen more often, since direction changes become more harsh. I print a couple of eSun PLA+ spools per week on S5 pro bundles, and have had very good results, although I am printing functional parts where dimensional accuracy is the primary focus, not looks. I typically print at 215C because I am in need of fast print times (typically 70-90mm/s), and I do see some ringing in my prints due to high speed. If I were going for looks I would probably set the speed at 50mm/s with outer wall speed set to 25-30 mm/s. This can feel quite slow if you are used to printing at higher speeds, but should be worth the wait when it comes to x/y surface quality.
  7. I think that they were saying 40 hours for the method using 45-55 with a full spool. Their instructions limit the amount to just what is needed for the next print, putting the PVA directly on the glass, and increasing temperatures. I would think that all of those things would significantly speed up the process.
  8. This is what I ended up going with after a bit more searching Yes, but the CR200B has some overlap and I don't mind losing 10mm per side for the time being. I believe that the Ender3 renamed and new dimensions seems to be the route most people go. Seems like a fine trade off for the time being. Thanks to all that responded. I wonder if anyone is working on the CR200B profile somewhere. Might be a project for myself.
  9. I use both Ultimaker and Creality printers at my workplace, and have an Ender V2 for home use but I recently bought a CR200B for home use as well. Will a future update of Cura include this printer? It has a 200x200x200 build volume. Is there a way for me to make a custom printer within Cura to accommodate for this in the meantime? Thanks, Frank
  10. This just looks like the nozzle is too hot, or possibly even worn out, causing over-extrusion. If you have not modified extrusion settings in Cura, some settings to look into turning on would be "Optimize Wall Printing Order", and "Compensate Wall Overlaps", both found in the walls section. @janis12, what material are you using and what temperature are you using for the nozzle? How long has the nozzle been in use? Have you printed any abrasive filaments with this nozzle (CF added, metal added, glow-in-the-dark, etc.)? How many walls are you using in your settings? Print speed? The answers to those questions may just lead to more questions, but with over-extrusion they are where I would start. Edit* I just noticed that you said the letters are only supposed to be 0.45mm in width. This happens to be just over your wall width, meaning that the printer will print 2 widths of your nozzle. Try to print letters at 0.4mm width or 0.8mm width and see if this gives more consistent lettering. You may not have over-extrusion at all, and it is just a matter of wall settings vs the model. An easy way to do this would be to scale to 88% (this should give under 0.4mm width on your letters, so it only prints one wall).
  11. Where is this located? I know shipping is included but you may get more interest if people can actually come see the printer in person.
  12. Greetings all. I was wondering if anyone has experience with this particular filament being used on Ultimaker printers. I have not had to do anything in nylon for a while, but the need will be coming soon and I have had a tough time getting this dialed-in in the past. The manufacturer calls for 250-260C nozzle temp, 35-60C plate temp (this seems low and IIRC I bumped this up a bit with some success last time I used it), and a print speed of 40mm/sec. On to the issues: This filament does not want to stick to the stock glass plate. On the current part I am attempting (linear bearing, small part) it will get about 2-4 layers in and then it curls amazingly hard. I have always kept the filament in the material station since I know the hygroscopic properties are pretty much a bad as it gets, and I see no bubbling/hear no popping when extruding. I have used painters tape/masking tape in the past to get all the way through a print without a complete loss of adhesion, but even on those prints, the part curled tons. Luckily it did not curl enough to make them unusable, but today my boss mentioned us trying to do a cycle count on a larger part. I know that this larger part will require full adhesion to the bed, so I am halfway into panic mode. One small note for my intended use. 100% infill would be ideal. Has anyone used this filament and had success on a UM printer? If so, what sort of profile did you use? Any special tricks for getting lasting adhesion? I have included a picture to give an idea of the warping/loss of adhesion. This is about 3 layers of a 2 piece linear bearing, approximately 20mm in diameter for the base. The warp is about 0.130" from flat on the part on the right.
  13. I am using the cloud to print locally and remotely in another country, with a third country (and our second continent) to be added in the coming months. It is definitely an experience controlling a printer from thousands of miles away, without direct control over maintenance, plate cleaning, and all of the other daily routines that comes with being right next to your printer. If you told me a year ago that I would be controlling a 3D printer from such a distance, I wouldn't have believed you, but here I am, nonetheless.
  14. I am not sure about your specific material, but maybe I can help anyway if this isn't resolved yet. I was recently setting up custom profiles (mainly to control for color) and they were not appearing on the material station section of the touch screen. What worked for me was found in the "manage printers" section of the settings tab. From there, select the desired S5, then click on the activate button followed by the "connect via network" button, then select the printer again and press "connect". This should basically make it so that the printer and the computer are linked together as if it were a direct line. As soon as I clicked the "connect" button, a pop up at the bottom of the Cura page came up that said something to the effect of "Transferring new materials to the material station", and I was able to find the new materials through the touchscreen menu. I hope this can help the OP or anyone else struggling with getting custom materials that have been added to Cura to appear on the S5 touchscreen.
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