arj3090

The printer is a Troodon 2.0 (Voron 2.4 clone) and ASA material. Cura 5.2.1 I think I found the largest part of the problem. I retuned the Pressure Advance which took care of the one side where the path stopped. I also increased the flow (which was 95%) The groove is not perfect, but much better.

I have tuned everything I know to tune, but when I run this tray that has a V notch in the side, the edges of the V are really rough. Any advice on what to look for to try to smooth this out?

I have this exact same issue that seemed to have started when I started using 3DXTech ASA. Every time a print is finished I have to: - Turn off the printer - Turn it back on - Manually heat the print core - Pull the filament out - Cut off about 10mm - Do an Unload on the print core - Unload the material station - Reload and select type

I don't know what the difference is, but I am sure there is a difference between AA and CC cores because I tried to print everything using only a CC core. I found that some materials do not print well from the CC core, but print fine form an AA core. One example is TPU.

I have my laptop on the same local network as the printer and I get the "Print via Cloud" quite often, especially if I cycle power on the printer. This is the fastest way I found to get "Print over network" to show back up for a direct local connection to the printer: - In Cura, go to the upper left where you see the printer drop down - Drop down the printer list and select Manage Printers - Then click Connect via Network - Click on the printer in the list (You may have to click Refresh) - Click the Connect button I tried the stream from a web browser and it works for me.

The jerk is set to the lowest setting of 20. From the G Code file: M204 S4083 M205 X20 Y20 RingingTest.gcode

I dealt with this quite a bit. At first, I found the spring above print core 2 had slipped out and wouldn't let the print core go in correctly. After I dissembled the print head assembly and fixed the spring, the problem went away for a while, but then randomly came back. I had a hard crash on my machine that destroyed the print head assembly. I replaced the complete print head assembly and ever since I have not seen any more errors related to bed leveling or detected heights.

Update - I ran a part at 70 mm/s with 5000 mm/s/s acceleration. I then measured the spacing of the ringing to be 1.5mm Based on my calculations, the period would be 21.4ms. At a speed of 70 mm/s, the acceleration to reach 70 mm/s in 21.4ms would be 3266 mm/s/s. Using 70mm/s at 3266 mm/s/s the result is less pronounced ringing, but it is still there. Just a little history of what lead to this attempt to go faster on the UM S5..... We recently aquired a Bambu X1 Carbon that now sits next to the S5. The Bambu runs parts in about 1/4 of the time with as good or better results. I decided to try to get the S5 to be a little faster in order to at least be useful.

Thank you for the response and advice. I am experimenting with the technique you described and will report back.

I have some bad ringing in my S5 that I can't seem to improve. I have tried different speeds, accelerations, and jerks. When I get the ringing to fade, my corners bulge. I tried to take a picture to show the ringing and bulging corners, but the features are hard to see in the picture. I recently replaced the head assembly after a bad crash. I did not notice the ringing prior, but it could have been there, and I did not scrutinize the prints as much as now. Any advice on how to eliminate ringing while keeping sharp corners? I looked for an input shaping function but could not find anything saying the S5 supports it. RingTest.3mf

I wanted to try an experiment by printing with only single core installed in my S5 printhead. The reason for this is to lighten the print head and try to print faster. But it seems the firmware will not start a print with only the left core installed. Does anyone know of a workaround to print with on one core installed?

I'm revisiting this and still think the heat should not be turned off during the leveling process. Two reasons as to why. The first is the difference in nozzle temperature between points makes it less accurate. The other reason is the time the printer needs to wait for the nozzle to heat back up after the leveling process before it starts to actually print.

I just dealt with this for 2 days last week. The problem on my printer was the spring above the right print core slipped out of place and 2 coils interfered with the print core. This made the print core sit at a slight angle. The first sign was the need to push on the print core tube even after snaping the print core into place. I had to completely disassemble the print head to reshape the spring and put it back in place.

Attached is a picture of the eSUN with ABS profile vs the Ultimaker ABS. You can see the definite quality difference

I made some prints using the Ultimaker ABS and the top surface looks acceptable. I tried some eSun ABS with the generic ABS profile and the top layer quality is far inferior. The best I can describe it is having deep lines making it much less smooth. I know I could use ironing, but that adds a lot to the cycle time. Does anyone have a good profile for eSUN ABS or suggestions on how to flatten down the top layer lines without ironing?