Jump to content

ATS_DEMUC

Member
  • Posts

    41
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Personal Information

  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 3 (Ext)

ATS_DEMUC's Achievements

0

Reputation

  1. It's RS Pro. It's supposed to be good. I don't have many 2.85mm filaments. On it. Also going to try this. I didn't understand where to place and which material should be the cylinder. Can you please make a doodle? But in the mean time, can you give me a hand with slice? -Why is the right side of the support higher than the left one? (first pic) -How do I create a support structure a bit higher on the "straw" parts to provide more support? -How do I remove the support from inside the tube? The eraser box is there, but it doesn't remove everything from the inside. Also, if I decrease the overhang angle to 0º, it fills the inside of the tube even more, overriding the eraser box. Gonna add the file, might help. I'm being a pain in the ass to you, I'm sorry UM3_actuator_v4F_core.3mf
  2. But I must add, the lack of adhesion to PLA looks the main issue on Ultimaker. As you might be able to see on the pictures below (ignore the warping, that was due to removing from plate while hot), there is no PVA on the tower whatsoever. Some of it is mixed in the PLA support structure (the C), the rest just got pushed off in every direction by the nozzles hitting it. On the other hand, the few printed layers have high quality surfaces, better than previous prints. Which kind of surprises me, because I saw the bottom layers wobble a decent amount.
  3. The PVA is not adhering to the PLA on the tower. That's a problem, because once the 1st layer doesn't stay in place, all the others won't either. And then the PVA is continuing to get dragged on the tip of the nozzle, to the "straw" part, creating defects. Also, sometimes when I print PVA, both on Ultimaker and Prusa, I feel like I should be printing colder. The already printed layers are in a flexible consistency, and when the nozzle pushes down to print new layers, they just wobble around, making the deposition inconsistent, and the surfaces less attractive (or even messes up the print completely) That was happening in the beginning of my print right now. So I have 2 problems - adhesion to PLA and PVA solidification. How can I print PVA and make it solidify fast enough for the next layers have a solid "bed" to be deposited on? Should I remove built plate heating? Would that mess up adhesion? Should I lower the temperature to 190º from 210º? Should I increase the fan speed to 100% from 50%? Wouldn't all of that also impact the adhesion to PLA? I have to find a sweet spot, don't I?
  4. Barely. He made the first layer, but the next ones didn't stick to the former. Going to try your step-by-step levelling. This PVA specifically, no. As it is a new one, no noises or fumes. The old one, yes, a lot of crackling. Like the file attached? I tried this, it's going to print now. About the glue, I'll do it if I really need to. Thank you so much for the help so far, and for not giving up UM3_actuator_v4E_core.3mf
  5. My hope is gone.. Lack of adhesion on the straw? The tower looks really bad as well. Is it because I completely removed the infill in between walls? EDIT: ticked "fill gaps between walls" and sliced it. Let's hope for the best
  6. Unfortunately, as I expected that didn't help. The tower doesn't look good either.
  7. I made another slice, with the tower and 150mm/s travel speed. I thought I understood how the eraser block works, it turns out that I don't. I've placed the eraser block all around the "straw", Cura still places support on the inside (image and file attached) EDIT: Nevermind, I'm stupid. The block has to go all the way up, and I missed a bit of the straw. Slice done, going to print UM3_actuator_v4C_core.3mf
  8. I can add a prime tower. But the last time I did it, both filaments got entangled on the tower somehow, messing up the print. I lowered the speed to improve quality, I alredy wrote about it on a few posts above. But my print/printer is so messed up that too many problems arose so far
  9. There is a clear discontinuity between the first layers and the following ones. This discontinuity is noticeable even in the PLA, which makes it even weirder. In the first layers, the PVA surfaces are smooth. But then that weird stringing (it's not really stringing, it's the nozzle overflow that gets stuck to that side for some reason, I guess) starts happening, the surface quality massively decreases, and the "dent" starts happening. What the hell happened to create this discontinuity? The piece even broke around that discontinuity when I was inspecting it (attached picture). I wish I could provide better quality photos, but this is just to small to focus. EDIT: It's so weird (I'm repeating myself, I know) that it only starts to happen after some layers printed. The surface quality is so much different before and after the discontinuity that it seems that the PVA lost all the quality from that specific moment (it even looks like it got humid, or over-heated in the nozzle after that specific layer)
  10. Looking at the slice, the "dent" is in the spot where the PVA starts and stops extruding. So.. is he creating a gap? why isn't the first point of deposition right next to the last point of deposition? I just cannot understand this behavior @gr5
  11. Well, it's becoming a BIG dent (attached picture). I'm going to cancel the print. If I can't have a tube (closed everywhere besides the top and bottom), it's un-usable. Maybe you were right, and I need to check the state of the printer first (?)
  12. I don't like what I'm seeing. There's small bits of filament gathering in one side of the "tube" and on the opposite side, it's lacking material (you can see a small dent in the video). Why would such thing happen? Why is PVA behaving like this? It was dried for 20hours, and it has been open (out of vaccum) for only 2 days or so. Plus, I'm afraid that line of PLA (in the direction of the core switching point) will mess up something sooner or later. Printing video: https://streamable.com/1u6gve
  13. Gotcha! Interesting tool. Will come in handy Right? it doesn't make any sense to me either. I'm going to try your first slice, the vertical one. If that doesn't work, I'll try to print the 45 degrees one. I've heated the PVA for ~20hours, hopefully it's in a GREAT shape now 😅
  14. I would never, ever, do something like this. I don't have that much faith in this printer. That seems a crazy amount of overhangs with PVA (which generally sucks) and even PLA. But if you do, I can try! Forgot to answer this. I bought Innovatefil Hydrosoluble for that reason. But unfortunately, it's much more expensive, and only found 1.75mm. So just gonna try it in the Prusa. The advantage of using the UM3 is that I have different materials for piece and support, which greatly increases the quality of my print. Because, as you said, PVA is not very solid, and breaks easily., which might be a problem when I start detaching the supports
×
×
  • Create New...